ChrisFormula355

Just bought a "bargain" 85 TPI iroc automatic. Has a "rebuilt" tranny in it, decent body, ect. ect.....anyways, motor runs really really nice, abosultely no smoke on startup or while flooring it, but it runs kinda ragged below 2,500 rpms and seems like its "searching" all the time. Ok special note......packrats ate some of the wiring, but the owner said he "fixed it" (right). Me and Synpasis (fellow thirdgen guy on these boards) tried setting the timing on it, and it seems like its in "limp home" mode (whatever the hell that is, I've never owned anything besides carbed cars ) and even when we disconnect the EST thing to do the timing, unless I have it set at like 30 degrees, it will backfire through the intake when you try to drive it. That would suggest its in limp mode right?? The engine light either doesn't work or isn't turning on because I haven't seen it yet. Where should I start??? Car pulls really really hard, at least for a 305TPI car, around 3,000 to 4,800 rpms, but below that it really kinda runs funny. Not real bad but not real good.

Ok now to the tranny......he said it was rebuilt, which it appears to be from the somewhat new gray paint on it and the fact the crossmember bolts where stripped out numerous times (morons), but either the TV cable isn't adjusted right or something is seriously wrong with the line pressure.....it shifts real late (3,200) no matter how much gas I'm giving it and will sometimes pop out of third. tranny fluid is good and red, doesn't smell burnt and is at the right level.

Any help is greatly appreciated, not used to working on TPI computer controlled cars (see sig)

Vader

CF355,

The first thing I'd do is repair the SES lamp. It is going to be very important to help diagnose any of your problems. A data logging scanner would be nice, but short of that, the on-board diagnostics aren't too shabby at isolating a faulty system.

Does the lamp turn on when the ignition is on and engine off?

SIMON HOLTBY

Backfire through the inlet can mean weak mixture and would also cause loss of power. Pull aplug and see what colour it is

Simon

ChrisFormula355

engine light does not turn on when key is on, I've never seen it..........where is it on a camaro???

SIMON HOLTBY

ses light is below the rev counter

Simon

ChrisFormula355

Ok fixed the check engine light.......pulled codes 32, 42 and I think it was 44.

Irocster

Here you go:



32. Fault in barometric pressure sensor circuit OR
Fault in exhaust gas recirculation valve diagnostic switch OR
Fault in electronic vacuum regulator valve


42. Fault at electronic spark timing circuit OR
Fault at direct ignition system OR
Fault at fuel cutoff relay circuit


44. Oxygen sensor lean

ChrisFormula355

ok so now what do i do?

Irocster

lol...I don't know, I just looked up the codes for you. Maybe someone will come on here and let us know what 32 and 42 mean because I have no idea.

slowTA

iTrader: (1)

Code 32 is the EGR valve... try looking it up in a chiltons or something to figure out how to check it. It could cause the rough running condition, I’ve heard that just unplugging it wouldn’t make it go away. It is probably worn out by now anyway, a block off plate should confirm that for you.

Code 42… Not exactly sure. Might be the fuel pump relay or pump, it makes sense since the code 44 means the car is running lean. The backfire through the intake sounds like it may be a lean pop. TPI pumps tend to go out now and then, not too much fun to replace either. But a clogged fuel filter could cause the same symptoms.

I would check the fuel pressure and try some cheap fuel injector cleaner. There are places out there that can sonic clean the injectors if they are clogged. Also, if you feel the injectors while the car is running you should be able to feel them pulsing.

Of course checking for vacuum leaks is obvious.

Irocster

EGR....now that I remember, a while back my car was running fine, except at idle. At idle, like when I crawled up to a red light or stop sign, the car shook pretty bad and it felt like it wanted to stall, all signs of a very bad vacum leak. I took it to my mechanic (to have him check the light) and it turned out to be a bad egr, not a vacum leak. I didn't even have to replace it, he said he just had to clean it, and ever since then, I haven't had that problem. The bitch is that you will have to remove your intake to get to it. I did replace a lot of my vacum lines at that time too though, just in case.