This weekend I put a new Radiator, water pump, 160 degree stat, And removed my A/C. The car runs really cool now, I mean about a hair above the 100 mark. If I am not making it to closed loop is that bad? The car also got 8.8 accels, rapid fires, O2 sensor, and accel coil.

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87 Z28 305 TPI, Auto, Gutted air boxes, K & N fillters, Dyno Max 3" cat back.

 

Also the code 32 I got every few mins on the highway is gone. On a 3 hour trip today not one time. Why?

 

anyone

 

I'd bet you're not hitting closed loop. Did you put in a fan switch as well as the tstat? This is off the top of my head but i think a 32 is EGR. Really unsure of that though.

Oh, on FI you can ground the ALDL while running and the number of flashes will tell you closed or open. I think theres a special procedure for this so you don't frie your ECM.

 

Anyone else got a artical or more indeep answer?

 

New,

Once the engine is running, insert a jumper wire in the ALDL connector between terminals 'A' and 'B', just like would do to scan for error codes. As long as you don't crank the engine while the jumper is in place, you won't cause any damage to the ECM. Jumping the terminals while running force the ECM into Field Service Mode.

While in this mode, the SES lamp will flash regularly. If the engine is in open loop, the SES light will flash rapidly about 2 ½ times per second. If its in closed loop, it will flash about once a second. When in closed loop mode, flashing less than once per second indicates the ECM is enriching the mixture above the 128 base line, and more than once per second indicates the ECM is leaning the mixture below the 128 base line.


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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

New,

At 100°F coolant temperature, you're not making it to closed loop. Because the coolant doesn't reach the 176°F minimum for 100% duty cycle of the ERG valve, the code '32' will not set. This doesn't mean the EGR problem is repaired, just ignored by the ECM for now.

You are also probably not getting proper mixture, and are lacking adequate temperature for highway mode spark advance. A good target temperature is 175° at full operating temperature. A 160°F thermostat will let the engine get that hot in summer temperatures, but won't make it when the weather is only 55°. A 180° is a good winter choice.

None of this would matter with a custom of aftermarket "cool" PROM, but the stock PROM won't support those coolant temperatures.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

YOu have to be running at least 150 degrees to move into closed loop mode. Your performance and gas milage will both be hurt by not running in closed loop mode. You may be able to over come this by running a heated O2 sensor. But if you are only running 100 deg. you wont be getting a complete burn of your gas and will end up with a lot of carbon build up.

 

Is there anything bad about cranking/starting my car with the alda(whatever?) "A" "B" grounded. I've been driving my car around for about 3 weeks like this since it's the only way it will keep an idle or have any throttle response in lower rpms.

 

Yes, there is a problem with that. You can fry the ECM. Since that apparently hasn't happened yet, I would not start it from now on with that terminal grounded.

Sounds like your car has a TPS or MAF problem. Might want to check those, and if its setting any codes.

 

Well, I have a scantool, TPS volts seem good, .52 idle 4.29 full, reaction on the scantool isn't instant, but... MAF goes up and down with engine load ~2000 - can't remember but around to like 18,000 or something like that. I haven't checked to see if the IAC is stuck or something like that yet, in school parking lot is a bitch. Thanks