What the.... ?!
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Joined: May 2000
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What the.... ?!
I noticed something strage last night. Whenever I brake for a stop light or come to a pretty abrupt stop the oil pressure drops to 0 for a bried amount of seconds (3-4) then goes back up to about 30. Is it because all the oil is crowding up in the front portion of the pan and the oil pump pickup has nothing to suck on (!) ? I felt a slight lifter rattle (for 2 seconds) while it did that too, so I think it's really starving the engine for oil. The oil on the dipstick is lil aboe the full mark maybe 1/8 on an inch. What's up with this ? Should I put some more oil in...? I've never had this problem before. :/
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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires...
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
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92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires...
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
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Joined: Jan 2000
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Blade,
Don't overfill the crankcase. If the windage gets severe or the crank counterweights or rod ends start dipping into the oil, you'll either have a foamy mess in the sump or lose a component to oil starvation or impact with the oil.
Your sump should have some baffles in it to prevent this oil starvation. If your pan is an aftermarket and lacks the baffles, you can't do much about the problem without removing the pan. A stock pan should have enough baffle and a deep enough sump to prevent starvation in most straight-line driving. It is possible to starve the oil pump in autocross or slalom, but that is from lateral forces instead of longitudal forces. Oil demand under heavy braking should be minimal, since the throttle is probably closed and the trans will tend to upshift as much as the governor will allow. If you are using a manual transmission or manually shifting the auto, try holding a higher gear a bit longer to prevent over-revving on decelleration under no-load.
You might want to take a close look at the wiring to the oil pressure sensor. A loose wire may be getting pulled away from the sensor connection by G forces, then allowed to make contact when the forces return to neutral.
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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Don't overfill the crankcase. If the windage gets severe or the crank counterweights or rod ends start dipping into the oil, you'll either have a foamy mess in the sump or lose a component to oil starvation or impact with the oil.
Your sump should have some baffles in it to prevent this oil starvation. If your pan is an aftermarket and lacks the baffles, you can't do much about the problem without removing the pan. A stock pan should have enough baffle and a deep enough sump to prevent starvation in most straight-line driving. It is possible to starve the oil pump in autocross or slalom, but that is from lateral forces instead of longitudal forces. Oil demand under heavy braking should be minimal, since the throttle is probably closed and the trans will tend to upshift as much as the governor will allow. If you are using a manual transmission or manually shifting the auto, try holding a higher gear a bit longer to prevent over-revving on decelleration under no-load.
You might want to take a close look at the wiring to the oil pressure sensor. A loose wire may be getting pulled away from the sensor connection by G forces, then allowed to make contact when the forces return to neutral.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
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