Heater core removal
Heater core removal
I've got the dash pad off, and the lower dash panel in the passenger footwell area. There is a plastic box. I removed the 3 visible screws off of it, and was able to pull it back a little and the core is visible inside. However, there are more screws holding the plastic box on, and I'm not sure how to get access to them. Do I need to remove my right side speaker or something? Where are these screws that I can't see? thanx
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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
supposed 'peanut cammed' car (yeah, right)
Built on Wednesday
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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter
supposed 'peanut cammed' car (yeah, right)
Built on Wednesday
I hope you get your answer soon . My heater core also went out. I would ask about changing it myself but it seems to be hard to get a responce on this board any more.
When I helped a friend do his 2nd gen TA we had to remove the fender and the fender well to remove some screws. Hopefully you won't have to go thru the same. Good luck JIM
When I helped a friend do his 2nd gen TA we had to remove the fender and the fender well to remove some screws. Hopefully you won't have to go thru the same. Good luck JIM
Guest
Posts: n/a
I dont remember how mamy screws there are, but there is one up on the top, right side of the plastic cover you have to take off IIRC. Its hard to get at, but can be done without taking the dash loose from the car. I am guessing that is the one you havent gotten to.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 1,383
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From: Oakville, Ct
Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
well, from what i remember in my car, i did it ALL from by removing some duct work from the bottom. all i did was remover the pass kick panel and was able to get it done in two hours. i used a 1/4 ratchet set also, with a woble..
the one you prob can't get very easiy is the upper left one... that was a bich for me to get out, also, the plastic cover over the core its self is kinda worked into the ducting in the bottom... its a pain to finagle out. then you have to do it all over agian to the the heater core out.
Just to give ya an idea, working by myself, except for puttin the core in, i was able to go from shutting the engine off to starting the engine in less than 3 and a half hours.
Steve
the one you prob can't get very easiy is the upper left one... that was a bich for me to get out, also, the plastic cover over the core its self is kinda worked into the ducting in the bottom... its a pain to finagle out. then you have to do it all over agian to the the heater core out.
Just to give ya an idea, working by myself, except for puttin the core in, i was able to go from shutting the engine off to starting the engine in less than 3 and a half hours.
Steve
The two top screws of the plastic box are a bitch to get off. Trick is to use a 12" extension and a universal. If you can't get your hands in there, ask some little kid to get those two screws out. You do not need to remove your dash pad, which some people claim you need to.
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1989 Camaro RS LO3 WCT5 "The Hose Queen" 0-60' 2.34 1/4 15.8@87mph
http://350.StreetRacing.org
ICQ: 61342629 AOL IM: BlackSunshineZ28
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1989 Camaro RS LO3 WCT5 "The Hose Queen" 0-60' 2.34 1/4 15.8@87mph
http://350.StreetRacing.org
ICQ: 61342629 AOL IM: BlackSunshineZ28
I took almost the whole damn dash out only to discover that I didn't really need to. I found that by reaching around the right parts, and bending by arms in weird positions. Don't be afraid to take out the speaker or some duct work. It's a whole hell of a lot easier than taking the whole dash out.
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