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Old Oct 31, 2000 | 10:40 PM
  #1  
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Kat
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Question about boreing

ok I know in GEN IIengines they can be bored out to make a 396.....( 60 over I think)

I was wondering if and Gen I 350 block can be bored out to a 396 also

Thanks

Kat

------------------
90 RS 305 TBI A4
Dumb ***/**** poor/orginating memeber of the infamous NE Crew
Time to see, believe this in me,This pain that i feel deep inside
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Old Oct 31, 2000 | 11:12 PM
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Boring a Gen II .060 over will not give you 396c.i., it will give about 360 c.i.

The Gen II block has the same dimensions and bore spacing as a Gen I.

To get 396 c.i., you have to stroke it 3.875" with .030" over bore.
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Old Oct 31, 2000 | 11:17 PM
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Kat
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Thanks Glenn!!!

I'm thinking about what engine I wanna build next year for the RS..

So many people have done the 383 I just wanna do something different.

Thanks again

Kat
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Old Oct 31, 2000 | 11:22 PM
  #4  
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Why not a 406?

The larger bore of the 400 offers even greater power potential due the "unshrouding" of the valves.
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Old Oct 31, 2000 | 11:26 PM
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Mosty casue I haven seen a 400 block arround these hills for a while now.. Then again i really haven been looking lately either..

Also too I have a 350 bare block outta a 89 GTA that I got for free from a friend of mine that I can use too.

Kat
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 01:24 AM
  #6  
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From: The Bone Yard
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Well, if you have a good 350 block (make sure you have it checked out though), then stroking will make sense.

However, I suspect the crank you will need to stroke it to 396 may be quite expensive (just for 13 more inces). Also, I am not sure if you will need a special cam with a smaller base circle for so the lobes will clear the rotating assembly.

I haven't investigated the 396 option too much, but those are things you should check out.
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 07:06 AM
  #7  
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From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
the almost square bore to stroke ratio of a 396 smallblock make it a very undesireable motor for anything except a truck. Look at the 400 cube ford made out of a 351. It absolutely sucks for hp output.

Even the LT1 based 396s don't have great output numbers. You rarely see anyover 400. I will admit that I saw a impalla ss with a 396 on a dynojet that made 380 rwhp. But it had EVERYTHING except NOS.

[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited November 01, 2000).]
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 11:54 AM
  #8  
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From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
Steve Spohn runs a 396 SB, 10s on the motor, on the bottle it'll go really fast.
...ed
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 12:30 PM
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From: AK
The 396 SBC utilizes an “off-set” ground crank. 4.030” bore and 3.875” stroke. Another method is to bore the block .060” over and use a stroker 3.80” crank. The later is undesirable because of the excessive over bore adversely affecting the cylinder wall thickness. The longer stroke will also affect the rod/stroke ratio creating undesirable cylinder wall thrust. Therefor, the offset ground crank and .030” over bore is the most common method used to build the 396.

The 396 is a torque monster that can be built to levels over 600 # torque and 500 hp. Unfortunately, they are an expensive proposition. The rotating assembly should be of forged steel, which is costly to begin with; and to have the crank off set ground, is an extra expense on top of that. These builds also like to “breath”. A good flowing set of heads and large cam is a must.

A 383 can be built to comparable power levels at a much lower cost.

If you want to do something “different”, you might want to consider a big block. They aren’t very common anymore. You can build a 454 or 468 for about the same amount that you would have in the 396 stroker. There’s nothing more impressive than seeing a big block crammed into a tight engine compartment.

Mike
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 12:50 PM
  #10  
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From: College Station, Tex USA
Car: 89rs
Engine: 400Sb
Transmission: Tremec 3550
My previous post was a might bit harsh.

I agree that they can be made to perform. Mr. Hoover is a very good example http://phil.tobin.net/Hoover/top.html

But, I think better output could be obtained with a more ideal bore to stroke ratio. If there is no reason that requires someone to start with an LT1 block, I would find a 400.

The 3.875 stroke makes an already marginal rod ratio even worse and going to a 6 inch rod will only complicate the ring configuration and placement.

I am sure 600 ft/lbs of torque is easily obtainable with a 400. And durability would probably be less of an issue because you arn't going to be spinning the whee out of the motor. I think mr. Spohn quotes a 8500 rpm redline which is pretty hard on valve springs and rings.



[This message has been edited by jcb999 (edited November 01, 2000).]
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 06:38 PM
  #11  
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From: Upland Pa
Car: Camaro Vert
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.73 S60
Thanks for the idea's guys.

As of right now i am still trying to explore all the options that I have before I go dump some $$ on a engine..

JCB ya didnt come across harsh man =)

Heres the bottom line.. I wanna build a semi streetable engine(more on the streetable side) that I can drive everyday and get like a 12.5 in the 1/4..

So this is what I was thinking at first
383, AFR 190's, 10:1 comp, ZZ9 cam, Mini Ram, Accell DFI controler, SLP 1 7/8's hedders SLP dual cat y pipe into a 3in Borla, pro built stage 3 tranny with a vigilante 3000 stall converter, 3.42 gears and a Aurburn posi

I'm hoping that combo would put me into low 13's if not 12's..

Then the other nite I was reading in GMHTP their project Thunderchicken has a MTI 396 in it that ran a 11.9 so that is what gave me the idea for the 396 using all the stuff that I listed above.


thanks again guys!!!!

Kat
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 06:51 PM
  #12  
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From: The Bone Yard
Car: Death Mobile
Engine: 666 c.i.
Your combo seems fairly well thought out and should get you into the 12s. The ZZ9 cam is not terribly wild and even more tame with a 383. So you won't need that high of a stall converter if you choose the ZZ9 cam.

That combo could take a slightly larger cam with a 383 and still not require a 3,000 rpm stall converter. The LT-4 Hot Cam Kit would provide more performance than ZZ9 cam, and would should definitely get you deep into the 12s. And that would be a very streetable engine and still not really needing a 3,000 rpms stall.

Check out www.compcams.com for some alternative grinds.
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 09:10 PM
  #13  
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From: Col, IN
Definiately go with a 400! I am building a 400 sbc with a stroker kit from speed-o-motive. for about$750 i got a steel forged 3.875 stoke crank, 5.7 rods , hypereutic pistons with lowered ringlands, bearings, and plasma file-fit rings. I thought that it was a heck of a deal. I haven't got it put together yet, so i don't know what it'll do though!

------------------
1986 camaro with 92z28 gound effects, aero wing, 4 3/4 Unlimited products cowl, 3.90 auburn gear rear-end with Steve Spohn adj LCA's,Panhard bar. 406 stroked to to 429 motor in the works to replace 2.8. just my 2 cents
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Old Nov 1, 2000 | 09:40 PM
  #14  
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From: Queensbury
I didn't have any luck with my 400 so I bought the ZZ4 engine a ways back . I am trying to build my own 350 ( plenty of spunk for such a light car) "from scratch" so to speek . ALL 4340 forged parts , treated block (froze -thawed-froze-thawed-froze,like that). I have planned not to use a turbo , silly gass , or supercharge this time around. BECAUSE I am shooting for a 11:1 or higher compression ratio ,also my pistons are going to be flat topped "ring dome "
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