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Connecting rod question

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Old Aug 21, 2003 | 11:45 PM
  #1  
ChevTech84's Avatar
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Connecting rod question

I came across a free engine today, It apperars that it was recently rebuilt with forged domed pistons and fresh camel hump
2.02 /1.60 heads. The reason the engine was free is because the
number four cylinder has a twisted rod that appears to be stock! The previous owner said the compression ratio was some where around 13.1 with domed pistons and 64cc heads. He said he could not keep the engine out of detonation. So my question is what kind of rods do I put in this engine, H beams or I beams? How big of a carb do I need to keep this thing from leaning out and not restricting it's power potential? This seems like a good find if all I need is to put $500.00 in rods and bearings in the engine.
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Old Aug 21, 2003 | 11:52 PM
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Morley's Avatar
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13:1 compression? Its not the carb size you have to contend with, you'll need 110 octane race gas for that beast.
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 12:06 AM
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Race gas is no problem, I got the engine to be a Saturday night special kind of deal
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 12:34 AM
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Morley's Avatar
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Originally posted by ChevTech84
Race gas is no problem, I got the engine to be a Saturday night special kind of deal
In that case, an 850 double pumper ought to do the trick maybe even a 750 depending on CID.
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 02:41 AM
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EvilCartman's Avatar
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From: Northern CA.
Car: '82 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: TH400 4,000 stall
Axle/Gears: Currie 9", 4.56 gears
Eagle ESP H-beam forged steel rods would be nice I got a set at www.cnc-motorsports.com for a really good price.
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Old Aug 22, 2003 | 07:23 AM
  #6  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
if you don't know it already i'll bet your engine is pretty much scrap metal. rods don't fail and not take alot of other parts out with them. if you would get lucky and not have damage to the block, crank, caps, or cam and need a set of rods use h beam, way stronger than stock type rods.
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Old Aug 23, 2003 | 10:52 PM
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Ede the rod twisted and suprisingly enough nothing else is damaged. The only reason I want to change bearings is the motor is already disassembled. I will also try the gapless top rings if the price isn't too outrageous. Thanks for the suggestion
guess Eagle rods will do the trick.
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Old Aug 24, 2003 | 08:14 PM
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
Ok I just ran all the the numbers from the crank, block, pistons etc. The motor is a 327 bored .030 =331. The pistons are L2211
forgings (12.1) with 64cc head. Would a set of 70cc heads bring this motor down to 93 octane compatibility? If the heads were aluminum (Eledbrock Victor Jr.'s) would it make a difference?
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Old Aug 25, 2003 | 09:18 AM
  #9  
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From: Smokey Mountains, NC
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Stock
327 rods

Isn't the 327 rod a small journal 5.7"?
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Old Aug 26, 2003 | 05:27 PM
  #10  
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From: Ft. Lauderdale
The block number I looked up said it could be a 302, 350, or 327
but the crank came up as a large journal 327 crank. This motor looks like it will be alot of fun with its .350 domed pistons, my first
experience with a high compression motor. My Vortec 350 is only a 10.1 CR.
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Old Aug 27, 2003 | 04:36 PM
  #11  
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From: st. Petersburg, Fla
Car: 83 Z28
Engine: vortec 305 for now
Transmission: 5 speed
You have a 4in bore block, with what appears to be a large journal 327 crank. Originally this was not a hi-perf engine and the small journal 327 crank was more prefferred, but who cares?, it was free! If you want to use this in a late model camaro with the accessory drives you will probably have to change heads to the one with bolt holes in the ends. Not a big deal since you need to get rid of some compression anyway. As far as the stock rod goes, stock sbc rods were good for over 6,500 rpm anyway (I used to go 7,200, but that was shaky) so if the assembly isn't balanced then just replace the rod and go have fun. If it is balanced you'll have to have the new rod matched to the rest. If, after all of this you need to more cc's, you could have the pistons flycut to remove some material, but that is usually not a prefferred way to go. I would recomend a lot less compression, because a motor that is continually detonating is a major PITA to drive, and gets lousy mileage and doesn't make good power because it has to be detuned to run.
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