Please help, car not running
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Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 466
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From: Robbinsville NJ
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Please help, car not running
I was driving the car normally, and all of the sudden it just died and it wouldn't start. I checked under the hood and the coil was all fried. I changed the coil to a new one ($40), and it started right away by the first crank, but it died just as quick and wouldn't start again after that. What could it possibly be?
p.s. I checked the distributor cap and rotor, which is fine, and all the spark plugs and wires have been changed about 3 months ago. I also checked the continuity from alternator to the coil with a voltmeter and it seems fine.
[This message has been edited by 88'camaro305TBI (edited November 07, 2000).]
p.s. I checked the distributor cap and rotor, which is fine, and all the spark plugs and wires have been changed about 3 months ago. I also checked the continuity from alternator to the coil with a voltmeter and it seems fine.
[This message has been edited by 88'camaro305TBI (edited November 07, 2000).]
88,
There are several things you can do. First, check the IGN fuses in the fuse panel. Make sure your VATS system is not locking you out. You didn't mention if the engine will still crank, and if it will, the VATS should be O.K.
If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the coil primary and secondary windings. The primary should be about 0.5-1.5 ohms, and the secondary should be between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
You should have 12VDC at the + terminal of the HEI amplifier module. The reluctor should be clean, rust-free, and have no cracks, and the pickup coil should have a resistance of between 500-1,500 ohms.
Disconnect the EST bypass connector and try starting the engine.
I hope you have a warm, well-lit garage, since it's turned rather ugly here in tha past few days.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
There are several things you can do. First, check the IGN fuses in the fuse panel. Make sure your VATS system is not locking you out. You didn't mention if the engine will still crank, and if it will, the VATS should be O.K.
If you have a multimeter, check the resistance of the coil primary and secondary windings. The primary should be about 0.5-1.5 ohms, and the secondary should be between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
You should have 12VDC at the + terminal of the HEI amplifier module. The reluctor should be clean, rust-free, and have no cracks, and the pickup coil should have a resistance of between 500-1,500 ohms.
Disconnect the EST bypass connector and try starting the engine.
I hope you have a warm, well-lit garage, since it's turned rather ugly here in tha past few days.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Thread Starter
Member
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 466
Likes: 0
From: Robbinsville NJ
Car: 88 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: auto
Thanks Vader, i spent all day yesterday trying to figure out what was causing this problem. It was the control module( i think that's what its called) located underneath the distributor cap which connects to the distributor and the coil. It was very corroded and wet. I think my cowl induction hood might be causing water to get in there. Its nice to have a wrecked 92 RS sitting around for parts.
p.s. It was pretty cold last night.
p.s. It was pretty cold last night.
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