Ok, I need help on cam selection and anlything you think would be better different, let me know

this will be a 383

350 .030 over....1 piece rear main, 2 bolt converted to splayed 4 bolt
Eagle forged steel crank, 3.75 stroke
Eagle ESP 5.7 rods
Forged pistons 10.5:1-11:1 CR..........suggestions on brand?
Fluid Dampr
Cam? will be Roller
Steel roller rockers Comp Cam?
AFR heads........190/195? or more?
Fuel Injection..HSR?LT1?or aftermarket(i.e. carb style manifold w/4 barrel TB)?
Hooker Super Comp Long Tube Headers(ceramic coated)
700R4 from www.pro-built.net
stall convertor as recommended by manufacturer..........Ideas on Man.?


ok, any ideas on what cam I should get? I would like shifting some where around 6000 rpm(Higher is OK to a certain point)
It will be street driven, not a daily driver, but driven often in summer
This will be going in a (my) 89 IROC,
will get a roll bar (maybe a cage)
If needed(probably will) I will get a Moser 12 bolt
Any ideas on rough HP?

Right now, my car has a 3.73 gear, if/when I get the 12 bolt, what gear should I get?



anybody know of a shop that has an engine dyno in Michigan?

 

Your plans sound very similar to what I just put in mine. I'd go with a 6" rod unless you plan to use nitrous. Converting the block to a splayed 4 bolt may be overkill. Used 4 bolt roller blocks are easy to come by. Either the Comp XR276HR or the XR282HR will work well with a carb or HSR.

 

I am now thinking of using some Dart Pro1 heads, 200cc intake and 64cc chamber.............think these will be good?


also, what are the advantages of using the 6" rod vs the 5.7" rod in a 383?

 

There are some cranks out there for use with 6" rods, that can be internally balanced. I never found a flexplate for use with a one piece seal, that was made for the stroker crank. I ended up using a 350 and adding the weight for balancing. The other way is to add heavy metal to the crank, that cost more than the purchase of the crank. I used sealed power hyper pistons in mine, they also make them in forged.

 

the Eagle crank I plan on using( at this time) is Jegs Part number 356-435337505700 , which is forged steel, 1 piece rear main, 3.75 stroke , for use with 5.7 or 6" rods and internally balanced



so, are there advantages to using 6" rods?

 

heres a crate engine that is in the october 2003 chevy hi performance. Its called the 383 ci/525 hp enforcer its made by American Speed and i know your not buying a crate but i plan to build a 383 a lot like this so i thought id run it buy you.

Write up: If youre looking for something that sounds really cool and packs a herd of wild horses, check out the 383 ci enforcer. With its hydraulic roller camshaft ground to provide 242/248 degrees of duration at .050 and o.567/0.563-inch lift youll have one awesome idling motor. Underneath the afr 195 CNC-ported heads resides a GM four-bolt-main block fitted with probe forged pistons and a 3.75 inch stroke nodular-iron crankshaft.

Specs:
Cubes:383
HP:525 at 5,800 rpm
TQ:520 lb-ft at 4500 rpm
Block:GM four bolt main
Compression:9.6:1
crankshaft: Nodular-iron crank w/ 3.75 inch stroke
rods:5.7 inch steel rods
pistons: Probe forged pistons
Cam:Comp cams hydraulic roller
Heads: AFR 195 CNC competition ported
intake: edelbrock rpm
Price:8590

just some fuel for thought thats a sick engine low compression and as much tq as hp thatd be a sick street motor.

 

My machinist tried talking me into the 6" rods. Said that I could expect about 30 hp more, less side load on the pistons. I don't like the 6" rods because the pin goes through the oil ring part of the piston. I DO like the looks of the eagle pro mod 6" rods however. With the eagle sir rods and high lift cam, the rods have to be ground on to clear. Even using a small base circle cam. We are using the 6" pro mod rods in my brothers 406, using comps 292h it's real close, .076.