DoBeR

iTrader: (1)

I plan on doing this tommorow, i did it on my other car a couple years ago but it was in a different spot. Anyways, when I undo and remove the old filter, will gas keep pouring out of the line or will it dribble a bit than stop. Should i have something around to plug it or am I not going to loose that much gas???

Trevor K

You can "bleed" the fuel system by pulling the fuse for your fuel pump and turning over the engine.

Then when you go to undo the lines there should be next to nothing inside.

DoBeR

iTrader: (1)

Do I have to do that?? What if I just unhook the line and change the filter?

AJ_92RS

You don't "have" to do it.

Do you enjoy fuel with 40+ psi behind it spraying all over you, including your eyes? That's what will happen.

The fuse is located by the battery. It's a little black sleeve (may or may not have a cover) with a 30 amp fuse in it. Unhook it, then start the car. Let it run until it dies. Then, just to be sure, crank it over 1-2 more times.

*EDIT* OH!!! Take off the fuel cap first. It'll help.

DoBeR

iTrader: (1)

Where near the battery is this fuse you speak of??? My Haynes manual said the fuse was underneath the dash so I took it out and started the car but all it did was make it run like crap. The fuel pump was still working.

v8unleashed

iTrader: (3)

what you did was probably shut off one of the injectors

i couldnt ever find a fuse under the hood (where it was supposed to be according to haynes and everybody here) when i replaced mine, but there was some kind of fuse or something underneath, right near the gas tank, and the car died when i unplugged that


you'll lose a half gallon or so of gas from it running out.....so dont use the same container you use to change your oil and waste all the gas like i did

DoBeR

iTrader: (1)

Well I found the fuse it was right behind the headlight in front of the battery. Cover said it had a 10 amp fuse in it but when I opened it it was a 20 amp. Anyways I undid it and the car died and I went to do the filter. I sprayed the threads earlier with penetrating oil because they were rusty. I put the wrenches on it and tried to undo it and the damn fuel line twisted. Now I have to take the damn thing to a shop and get them to change the filter and replace some of the lines. What a pain in my ***!

19doug90

geeze all i did was pull off the cap for my gas tank....little bit of fuel came out but nothing that bad...undid the two nuts pulled the old one out popped the new one in...tightened it all up and was good to go.

AJ_92RS

TBI or TPI?

19doug90

tpi why

AJ_92RS

The fuel line must have lost pressure somehow.

Regardless, I'd still relieve the pressure first. Why take the chance?

v8unleashed

iTrader: (3)

19doug, you have NO IDEA how painful gasoline is when it gets in your face...maybe you left the car sitting for a long time, maybe your pump is bad, maybe G0d was nice to you....anyways, i would suggest relieving the pressure next time before you open it all up

RJR99SS

also, you may have quite a bit of trouble just getting the fuel filter out.

The type of filter on f-bodies has two flared fitting that screw into each side of the filter. The fittings are 16 mm, and the filter is 20 mm. You NEED TO USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH ON THE LINE FITTINGS. Dont be surprised if the fittings dont come loose either, they can be pretty solid. You can try to tighten and untighten it over and over again to losen it up.

The even bigger problem is rust. Depending on what shape your car is in, the line fitting can actually rust up BADLY. I've seen it where the fitting would actually deteriorate so much that a 16 mm flare nut wrench would strip it, while a 15 mm on wouldnt even fit on. In situations like that all i can recomend is to file it down until a smaller wrench can fit on it.

When you reinstall the filter, be sure to put it on the right way. There will be an arrow on it indicating the flow direction.

19doug90

Maybe.....i have had mixed results when asking wether taking off the gas cap vents the entire line or just the tank. So basically i cant explain why i didnt have 40 psi of fuel spraying out but oh well that as it may be i did have fuel run all down my arms which burnt like i have never experienced before from a liquid therefor making the pulling the pump fuse being a good idea because you wont have as much fuel in there....

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

Why? Just cut the fuel line with a tubing cutter and put in new line with a compression fitting. A little extra work but it'll save you the $50+ the shop will charge you.

v8unleashed

iTrader: (3)

That's kind of like saying....... if you're changing your spark plugs and one of them breaks off, no problem, just pull the head.

TomP

I tend to disagree a bit here... This comes from my experiences with rusted-up brake lines. Sometimes (as was just mentioned in the case of 16mm/15mm sizing), even a properly sized flare nut wrench can strip the tube nut!

If you feel the wrench starting to strip the tube nut, as would happen only with a rusted-up or overtightened fitting, STOP and get yourself a BIG- as in 12" or 15"- open ended adjustable wrench. Use the wrench on the tube-nut, and be sure to use it the correct way.

Seems odd to be able to use an adjustable open-ended wrench incorrectly, but it's possible. You want the brunt of the force to be against the fixed jaw of the adjustable wrench. It's a bit hard to explain in words, so I drew up a picture using a photo of a large Craftsman adjustable wrench. I'll attach it below. The adjustable jaw is only meant to take up the "slack" in the wrench; the force should mainly be against the fixed jaw (as noted by the red lines).

It seems that the large wrench, with it's long handle and thick jaws, has a tendency to break the fitting free easier. The long handle gives torque, and the thick jaws resist side-loading of the fastener. Remember too that you should always use a quick/hard force on the tool instead of a slow/"pulling" force. A slow and pullllling (or pushhhing) force can side-load the fastener and cause it to strip out. Hard-fast "yanks" will simulate an impact wrench, and jar the fitting free faster.

Another couple of suggestions for changing your fuel filter: 1, put goggles on. Ever see a Ford Mustang fuel filter? It's up "behind" the rear bumper, so, you got it, your eyes wind up directly below the filter. Way to go Ford!! On our cars, goggles would prevent fuel spray from blinding you. 2, put your wrenching arm through a black garbage bag to prevent gasoline burns. 3, never do this job inside, or with a hot exhaust nearby. 4, never drop any tools near your job- dropping a wrench onto concrete CAN cause a small spark! [edit] 5, I like to smear some anti-sieze compound on the threads of the tube nuts, AND on the ends of the tubing (where the tube nut rotates on to prevent rust.

6. Make sure the little o-rings are still on the extreme ends of the inlet/outlet tubes!! Sometimes these can get stuck in the old filter. If you put the new filter on and one/both of these o-rings are missing, your fitting will leak.

Fun fact (well, not so fun for me): On my first (original) AC/Delco pump, I never depressurized the system with any fuse. I'd remove the cap, undo the filter- never got a fuel spray- and wait until the gas slowed down and stopped dripping. Usually it would stop just as I started to panic. But, with my second and third (both Borg-Warner) pumps, the fuel NEVER stops dripping. Never! So there's definately something different internally with a AC/Delco pump then a BW (pep boys) replacement pump.

Viprklr

iTrader: (5)

This is why. The fuel line is already twisted. At least part of it needs to be replaced.

TomP

Isn't tubing fun? Something to keep in mind if you guys ever touch your brakes- http://www.classictube.com (and some other companies) make brake tubing in stainless steel! I've snapped a few lines on my rear disc axle, and always patched them by hand with a flare tool- but no more. When I get my rear disc axle back in commission (posi blew- really an Eaton gov-lock locker that destroyed itself), I'm buying the SS lines. Nothing more frustrating then "Alright! The nut broke free" and then feeling "Snap" as the tube breaks.

DoBeR

iTrader: (1)

I got the car taken to the shop today and they gave me the safety certification and changed the fuel filter for 20 bucks which im happy with. Id rather pay 20 bucks canadian than spend my time dicking around with rusty gas line. Oh well thx for all the info guys maybe next time I try to do it, it wont be so bad.

19doug90

sounds like a recipie for busted knuckles =)

25THRSS

yes, take these guys advice and make damn sure the pressure is released. It's painful enough when it runs all down your arm and starts to burn your skin. I can't imagine getting it on your face.

oldblueZ

Well, I know what you guys are saying about relieving the pressure, but I've disconnected my fuel filter and fuel lines many many many times before with the lines still pressurized. You just have to aim the spraying gas away from you while it depressurizes.

About getting fuel all over you....umm, you are doing a fuel filter, you get fuel down you arms and all over the place.

Later,
Jesse

Jon92TA

I changed my fuel filter in a garage and found out how strong gas fumes are up close. I put a big fan behind me to blow the fumes out which helped a lot.
I unplugged the fuel pump wiring in the back and did a quick start/die to relieve pressure.

TomP

That's why usually it's better to pull a wrench towards you. And hopefully we've all got some form of Mechanix gloves by now (I have the M-Pact series... I remember when they used to be blue, instead of black ) The quick/hard motion of using a wrench is also why smacking the wrench with a hammer works- it's a quick/hard motion. Although tools usually aren't tempered to handle hits from a hammer; chrome is brittle; be sure to wear goggles to avoid any chips being thrown into your eyes. And obviously don't hammer on anything near the fuel filter - spark = explosion!


That's why I mentioned putting my arm through a black garbage bag... at least that way I still have some hair and skin on my arm when I'm done with the filter

jeremyb1988

Does anyone know the sizes of these flare nut wrenches...I really cant find a 20MM flare nut wrench out there...