ok like i posted before i have a 305 tbi and i just put on a new intake, carb, and hei distributor and a regulator for fuel line and the car just won't run at all weve had it going but it just dies out smells real rich and bogs out at the hit of the accelerator..

so anyways i decided i'm sick of messin with it so i took it to a local shop that is a pretty good shop i mean i trust them with my car and they refused to even look at it... he goes you had computer controlled car and now you took that out and put in non computer controlled things and thats like mixin oil and water and we won't touch it.... so now what do i doo... ?? are they right is my car screwed now or what ??? i'm clueless and need some advice thx..


vetter

 

find a better shop that isn't full of knuckle dragging idiots. Any real mechanic can find the problem. There's only 3 things necessary for combustion... fuel, air, and spark.

 

thats the problem thats the only decent shop around this hick village i live in ... we don't have any other kinda shop that i'd trust my car at and nothing else to choose.. just got a few motor head friends and me that are all stumped and could use some advice..

 

If its a hick village like the one i used to live in, spread the word, he'll start losing business quick.

 

Nathan,

I can somewhat understand why a general repair shop (even a very good one) would turn away that kind of project. They really don't have much to gain from it. They have no base line to compare the engine performance. They also have no way of assuring emission performance that the car is supposed to achieve. Tha's more important than yo might think at a for-hire service, since they have regulations to follow. You may indeed be on your own. Take the same setup with the same problems to a dealer servicve department in some "hick village" like Chicago or Milwaukee, and you'll likely get the same reply.

A Torker is not an ideal intake for the street. You'd do better with a Performer or some other dual plane intake. What is the carb jetted for? A 350? If you got a carb out of the box and bolted it to a 305, it's most likely WAY too rich on the smaller engine. Even with the correct float settings, the jetting is probably too large. You could rejet, and change air bleed orifices, and the secondary metering, and maybe get it close to correct for the engine. Or you could get the correct carb for the engine.

 

Did you re-install the distributor correctly? It really sounds like a timing issue to me cause apparently you have fuel. Just a thought.

 

and compression dont forget that....do simple tests first and try to isolate the problem....do a compression test to make sure your fine there....check your whole ignition system over and make sure you dont have a problem there....and then if youre also getting fuel then chances are you just need some serious tuning. regardless you have to start doing some tests to narrow it down.

 

ok... i don't think its an ignition problem or spark cause weve had the engine running and it was running good and sounded good but then after a bit of drivin or anything it just bogs out and dies and goes all to hell... i like vaders idea... but i don't know how to even start tuning it down... just so you know its a edel 600cfm straight outta the box... so that makes sense on the burnin rich part but then other times its like it has no fuel at all and won't even fire up and we pulled the fuel line off and tried crankin it and it barely would put out fuel....


so this is what me and a few friends kinda thought up of... what do you all think .... k.... well since the computer isn't hooked up to throttle body any more its not gettin any readings from it sayin how much fuel its usin and wether or not it needs more or less or anything so i think the ecm is ****in with the pump in the tank and how much its sending to it.... so i think i'm gunna say forget the fuel regulator and get a machanical fuel pump and mount it on the side of the block where the 4 bolt holes are and dissconnect my in tank one and try that once that way i can have my return line hooked back up also... i do think the carb probably needs adjusted down if they usually do come set for 350's outta the box...

thx for your reply vader and thank you everyone else for the ideas...

 

i'd check the timing, since you're sure it has spark, next i'd look at the carb adjustments, but they would be about the last place i looked. if you had the rockers off you may want to run the valves again to make sure they're set right.

 

Agree with ede.

 

O.K. There's a bit that I didn't see the first time around. You're still using the TBI fuel pump, but a non-CC distributor? The problem with that is that the pump will only run if the ECM gets distributor reference pulses, or the oil pressure switch closes after cranking has produced 4-7 PSI oil pressure.

Normally, the fuel left in the bowl should run the engine until there is oil pressure and the pump can operate through the pressure switch. After that, the pump pressure of 11-13 PSI may be too much for the carb without a regulator in place. You really don't want much more than 5-7 PSI at the carb. A mechanical pump rarely generates much more than 3-5 PSI.

Getting little or no fuel from the pump while cranking makes complete sense. If you still have an ECM, you should at least get a two-second pump prime cycle when the ignition is turned on. Eventually, that should get fuel to the carb, but it's not a very reliable method.

 

Couple of things that can mess it up. AFB (Edelbrock) carbs don't like a lot of fuel pressure, keep it to 4-5 psi max. If still using the TBI fuel pump make sure the fuel pressure regulator you use is a bypass & return style (not dead head).

You need to set the float levels. AFB carb float levels get knocked all out of wack from shipping. Can hit the Edelbrock site for info on this. Real easy to do. While you have it open double check the needle & seats for debris, and that the seat is not loose.

RBob.

 

go to the local library and get some books on tuning carbs. if they don't have any they may be able to order some from another branch. that's how i get all my books.

check this out too: http://www.telusplanet.net/public/gi...delbrock_1.htm

 

Did you wire the fuel pump to stay on? You may be running out of gas. You have to wire a hot wire into your fuel pump relay to keep the fuel pump running. Ive done the swap and was stumped at first also. The fuel pump would prime but it wouldnt stay on so it would die after a few minutes.

 

what do you mean hooked back up? Are you not using your return line now? I do believe that in tank pump will get overheated if it doesn't have a return line to bypass the excess fuel to. At that point it may stop pumping as well.

But as far as the rich condition, if you are running higher that 6 psi, you may be forcing the needle open.

 

Check your timing. Sounds like the prob.