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Help - Need to replace exhaust manifold gasket!

Old Nov 10, 2000 | 05:15 PM
  #1  
FRDH8R's Avatar
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From: San Jose, CA
Help - Need to replace exhaust manifold gasket!

Can anyone give me an estimate on the time table for this. It's the passenger side gasket.

Also if anyone can give me any hints or help! Is this too hard? Should I take it to the mechanic? Help ASAP!

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My 91 RS
Nor-Cal Crew For Life
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Old Nov 10, 2000 | 05:55 PM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
There isn't one. You could put one in there, I suppose, but the factory didn't.

Try tightening all the bolts, you might be surprised pleasantly.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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Old Nov 10, 2000 | 06:18 PM
  #3  
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Thats true, there is no gasket. Just tighten down the bolts.
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Old Nov 10, 2000 | 06:47 PM
  #4  
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That's correct, from the factory there is no gasket. Autozone sells them though... pretty cheap, $8 or so for both sides.

I'd buy the gaskets before attemting anything, that way if you try tightening the bolts and it doesn't work, you don't have to reassembly everything to drive down to the store and buy the gaskets.

Because... The passenger side exhaust manifold has to be one of the most PITA jobs there is on a thirdgen. It is VERY VERY hard to get to the bolts in the back. I just put a gasket on mine so I know :-). I did mine at the same time as my intake manifold, which took me all week (working evenings). I'd say just the exhaust manifold would probably be at LEAST a full day of work if it's your first time. But be safe and start on a saturday so you have sunday too in case you don't finish.

Lesseeeee.... any tips I can think of. It may occur to you (4 or 5 hours into the job) that removing the AIR tubes would make it easier to get at the bolts in the back. It doesn't :-). In fact, you wind up wasting an hour or two trying to unbolt the AIR tube nuts.

DEFINITELY soak all the bolts in WD-40 the night before you start working, and again a few times in the hour or two before you start. Be liberal! Those bolts are really stuck on tight so you want to make sure the WD-40 penetrates. I think this is much more helpful than heating up the exhaust system (which some people suggest. I think they just say it so they can laugh at the idea of you burning the hell out of your arms on hot exhaust pipes).

The two front and two rear bolts have little metal tabs bent around them. You have to unbend the little tabs before you can get a socket on the bolts.

Jack the car up (or use ramps) before starting. You WILL need to work on several of the bolts from below.

Remove the AIR hoses and the AIR diverter valve assembly thing (the boxy looking thing that bolts to the air pump) IF your air pump is on the passenger side. I know some cars had it on the other side. But it'll let you get at the front bolts a lot easier if it's gone.

Someone told me to unbolt the A/C and slide it over an inch or two without unhooking it. I have NO idea how this is possible, it looked like several of the bolts would require more work to remove than the exhaust manifold.

Take a nice long (1-hour) break for lunch and dinner NO MATTER HOW CLOSE YOU ARE TO COMPLETE. Whatever you think will only take you a few minutes more will take 2 or 3 hours. (This is a good rule of thumb for anything more complicated than changing wiper blades).
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Old Nov 10, 2000 | 11:05 PM
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Well, I reccomend Heating it Up. You will get a little warm, yes, but you are alot less likely to snap bolts off. still sue WD40 or liquid wrench liberally as well.
Find yourself a nice long breaker bar
Get a nice Pair of leather work Gloves, They make a world of differance when Workin around hot exhaust manifolds and when Torqueing hard on rachets in Close quarters ( the Knuckle banging factor )

Other helpful hints, Umm, Take the time to take all that Tubing thats running around there off, as it will only get in your way later. put anti seize on the bolts before you put them back in!

other than that, and what was suggested above, you will get to know and love Your car all the more every minute

Oh yeah, and have a friend come help You / watch, Work alwaysd goes faster when someone is helpin you.

Keeps you Motivated.



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85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
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Old Nov 11, 2000 | 02:51 PM
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FRDH8R's Avatar
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thanks guys, really appreciate the help! I'm gonna try and tighten up all the bolts and hope that that fixes the problem. I must say though that the leak is very loud, and obviously noticed. Hope thats my problem and hope i don't have a crack in the manifold. Thanks again!

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My 91 RS
Nor-Cal Crew For Life
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Old Nov 11, 2000 | 08:03 PM
  #7  
Engineboy's Avatar
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From: Reno, NV
Car: yep
Engine: uhuh
Transmission: sure does
I usually take the manifold off, have it surfaced, and put it back on with no gasket. The manifolds develop a warp in them causing the leak.

You up your chances for another ex. leak later by putting in a gasket.

Also check the AIR pipes, they rust out and get small pin holes in them.

Just my 2 bits.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3
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