My current engine has 145k on it and the engine block is cracked or the head gasket is blown (there is antifreeze in the oil). So I am going to replace it with a new GM Goodwrench Crate 350.

I am going to purchase part # 12513151 which is a "5.7L 350 91-93 Caprice, Fleetwood TBI" replacement engine. Here are the spec's:
- 2 bolt main l98 block
- 9.6:1 compration ratio
- Crappy peanut roller cam
- LT1\LT4 rods
- Hypereutectic pistons
- Nodular crank
- L05 heads (I think)??
Link's for more info:
http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...id=128&pid=105
http://www.paceparts.com/page.asp?id=158

Since I am on a budget I am going to replace the cam, rebuilt my stock heads, and sell the TBI heads.

Here are my questions:
1) Will a LT1 or a LT4 cam (not hot cam) have to much lift or will I have to replace the valve springs.
2) If I have to replace the springs what should I replace them with. (what specs should i look for)
3) Will I have any installition issues with a LT1 / LT4 cam?
4) Should i replace the distribtor gear? If so will a stock replacement be fine?
5) Is a LT4 cam going to take away low end power?

Here is the specs on the LT4 cam that i found searching the web:
"GM PART NUMBER 12551142. IT FEATURES .476/.480 LIFT (INT/EXH) 203/210 DEGREES DURATION (INT/EXH @.50 LIFT) THE LOBE CENTERLINES ARE AT 115 DEGREES. THESE SPECS ARE WITH THE STOCK LT4 1.6 ROCKERS. THIS CAM WAS ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT IN THE 1996 LT4 CORVETTE"

EDIT: I have decide to go with the Crane 2032 cam instead

 

Most stock heads with take .480" lift. You might want to upgrade the springs while you have the heads apart.

 

There goes that good warranty once you put in a new cam and screw with the heads.

 

The LT1s came with the same, weak, 85# springs that every other SBC had since Ed Cole and Zoras Duntov were babies. As long as the heads will take the lift, the springs will at least work with the cam. LT4 engines had slightly better springs. Aftermarket springs are going to be way better, but you'd have to machine the heads for anything worth the trouble. I know that some companies offer 1¼" springs that are supposedly better than stock, but they're not as good, consistent, or durable as larger diameter springs.

 

If LO5 heads, I wouldn't waste the time porting them. Unless you just want the practice.

I'm surprised Pace promotes the LT4 cam in that engine, if indeed it has LO5 heads.

I've got LT4 take-off valve springs in my 305. It's seen 6300 RPMs on quite a few occasions w/o any valve float.

 

Waste of money! You buy a GNM crate for a good nation wide warrenty but they wont covery anything if its been tinkered with.
www.jasperengines.com/ Is your best bet. You can order upgrades like cam's, springs and so on and they come with NEW DART heads for the SAME PRICE and a BETTER WARRENTY. I dont know if your net source requires a core but GM does require a core now on all engines so your probably going to eat that wherever you go.

 

This goodwrench engine has no core.

I called jasper and they wanted $2000 for an OEM spec rebuilt longblock and $1650 for an OEM spec short block. In my opinion that's a rip off for a rebuilt OEM spec engine. Please tell me how I can get a jasper engine with dart heads for the same price if they want $2000 for a OEM spec longblock and the GM goodwrench engine is $1600. (This is not a flame I seriously would love to know how to get a jasper engine with Dart heads for the price of the goodwrench engine)

 

Last engine I called on was was a stage 2 engine for my buddys car, stock, S1, S2+. It was around $1400 with a $200 core so $1600 total. Your probably looking at a fleet spec engine or somthing. Marc 85Z28 got his stage 1 from jasper with world heads for $1200 after core. http://www.jasperengines.com/performance.html#Class%20I

 

After you buy that Goodwench TBI 350 and to all the Mods and parts, where do you save any money???? My opinion look at something else.

 

I am bringing this thread back to life.

Just thought I would let anyone interested know about jasper’s class II performance short block. They wanted $1800 (before core) for there short block. That comes with hydraulic lifter blue racer cam (NOT a roller lifter!), a high volume oil pump (no good, you want high pressure), hyper pistons, 9.0 compression ratio, stock remanufactured rods, stock remanufactured crank. So I am going to buy the GM create engine for $200 less then the jasper short block and spend that money on a cam. Then find some heads other heads.

SSC,
How did you get quoted such a low price?

 

They must cut a deal to repair shops. I dident think they did unless you become a Jasper supplier but I guess they gives us a slight break anyway.

Back to the subject. I personally dont think its worth the GM engine unless you have a buyer lined up for the heads, then I can see where your comming from. I just dont like the warrenty void crap GM was giving us (mostly me) about aftermarket add ons, but I got even more ticked off the other day when a local engine builder that sells complete 4bt short blocks for $700 wont stand behind thier 12x12 warrenty if an edelbrock/AFB is used, Holley is allright with them but if an aftermarket manifold (even stock replacment) or any headders (even stock rustang) are used no warrenty. It's just ridiculous dealing with these ready to drop suppliers nowdays. Jasper is they only builder that doesent give you any crap about aftermarket products.

I only like GM crate engines for the warrenty and if thats null and void I just dont see the initail cost being worth a no warrenty engine.

 

Screw the class two and three, they don't come with the 3 yr./75000 warranty like the S/R and Class 1 (long block). That's the only reason why I'm going with Jasper. Anyone here know what they payed for either their Jasper S/R or Class one engine before and after core? Thanks.

 

SSC,
Jasper’s warranty is 6 months on there short blocks, they might as well not even give a warranty at that rate. I am sure the GM engine will hold up for much longer then 6 mouths. The GM caprice engine has the same internals as a ZZ4 short block with 2 bolt mains instead of 4 and a different cam of coarse all for $1600. I would have to get heads if I went with the jasper short block anyways so it really won’t cost anymore to get the GM caprice long block sell the crap TBI heads and get a new heads and cam.

Irocster,
They wanted $2100 for a factory replacement, which is a lot so a class 1 long block must be completely not worth it.

 

I have that motor in my car. I put my "worked" L98 aluminum heads on with my Lt4 hot cam and a supperram, witch is for sale right now, and my car went real low 12's at 112+ . Not bad for a "stock" motor. All gm you know. Just kidding about the stock part befor anyone jumps all over me

 

I heard the Caprice heads or terrible. The stock L98 heads are better. The thing is, I kind or need a S/R because I don't know if they are going to check the number on the block at smog inspection, and if they find it is not the engine for my car, they might give me trouble. So that basically leaves me with either re-building or going the reman. route such as Jasper. Someone on here got their Jasper Class one for $1200 after core.

 

L05 Caprice heads that is. I was just looking at Scoggin-Dickey, and they want about $1500 for that Caprice engine. My question is: They say at the top that the warranty is only good if the engine is installed in a car it was meant for, which in this case would be a caprice, not a camaro/firebird. Another thing is, it comes with its own cam! That sure can't be a very aggresive cam! And if you were to change it out to something respectable, like a crane 2032 or a ZZ4 or LT4 hot cam, that would void the warranty quicker than you can say ZZ4.

 

Yes that is why you should sell the heads and rebuilt your stock heads or buy some other heads?

A SBC is a SBC they all look about the same on outside, there is no way a smog guy is going to check block casting #’s, and pull the valve cover to check heads casting #’s. I don’t think you are ever going to get a Class 1 long block from jasper for $1200, it’s probably going to be around $2500. If you do, let me know!


My options are this caprice engine with no warranty because I am going to modify it or the jasper short block, which has a 6 mouth warranty which is nothing. Am I am sure either engine will last awhile. And for the cam that’s going to be the first thing to go. The reason I would go with the caprice engine is I can pick the cam to go in it (a.k.a, buy a new cam). Also the jasper block has a crappy high volume oil pump and doesn’t have a roller cam.

 

I think Scoggin Dickey still sells 1pc RMS shortblocks...last I recall they were about 1200, with no cam...you could be money ahead reusing your cam/lifters and heads off your L98 (assume you have the L98).

Personally I think that's too much money for a shortblock (but maybe they were new, not rebuilt???) w/o a cam, but since you seem to want a factory type piece, with the 400 saved, you could have your heads redone and be on the road.

Any reason why you don't just pick up a 1pc RMS long block and have it gone through?

Edit:

Just one more thing, have diagnosed yours yet? Could be for 60 bucks and a weekend in time, your problem is solved (bad headgasket).

 

You talking to me or 89 Iroc Z?

 

I was talking to 89 Iroc Z, but if the question pertains to you, and the info is useful...feel free to comment

 

8Mike9,
I was thinking about trying to replace the head gasket but my current engine is a ticking time bomb. Also if my current engine dies at school I would be 4 hours away from home and have to pay some mechanic to put a new engine in. I need something reliable to last me through college.

As for the $1200 L98 short block, the reason I decided against it is that it doesn’t have as good internals as the caprice engine. Also a local dealer has one in stock for $1600, so I won’t have to pay shipping

 

If you don't mind me asking, I really don't understand why you would go through the trouble of buying the caprice engine, then removing the LO5 heads and replacing them with something better....? Why not just get a caprice shortblock or a ZZ4 shortblock?

 

A ZZ4 shortblock is too expensive. I have never seen a caprice shortblock, I don’t think they exist, let me know if I am wrong.

 

You guys act surprised/pissed when GM won't warranty a motor that you've messed around with. If I were GM I sure as hell would have the same stance as them. Would you warranty a motor that you built and I took apart and put back together to get more power? If you say yes, thanks....but I sure wouldn't if I were you.

I don't know what a Crane 2032 has for specs but I would go with more cam than a stock LT1 cam. You can probably put up with more lope than the average LT1 buyer. Good luck with your motor swap.

 

I see, makes sense...unless you hook up with a crowd of gearheads at school, doing engine swaps between classes is tough.

 

You might want to remove your heads and make sure they are not cracked first. Cracked heads are more common than cracked blocks, or like you said it could just be that the mating surfaces are warped and the gasket failed; somthing else to think about.

 

Yes to a point. Headers, a fairly moderate aftermarket intake and a stock type 600-750cfm carb should be allowable. I see no reason for voiding warrenty for such minor parts that need to be installed durring engine installation anyway. A cam is different and heads are different. to replace them you must unseal the engine and I'll agree 100% on voiding any warenty in that situation.

 

I bought a similar GM crate engine and did my mods to it, it is now out of warrenty and never even once hiccuped during the warrenty period.
It was the 4 bolt main 2 piece rear main 350 (yes it is a flat tappet, no biggie) I replaced the entire valvetrain, put on Trick Flow heads (went from 76 cc chambers to 64 which raised the compression) and my TPI & accessories. This made for a good strong engine with over 350 hp at the crank, a good daily driver engine.
I was told by SDP2K that if the engine failed during the warrenty period, and as long as none of my parts caused the failure, the warrenty would be honored.

Also, I sold the heads on E bay for $200, a nice down payment on the TF's