Fan still won't go on - what can it be?
Fan still won't go on - what can it be?
OK, my fan will turn on when I turn on the A/C, but it won't go on when the temp gets too high. I replaced the coolant sensor switch but it still doesn't work. As a tester, if I make a little jumper and touch the two leads going into the coolant sensor, the fan should go on, correct? Or can't I do that? Does anyone know what else the problem could be?
Also, does the sticky side of the gasket for the thermostat go on the housing or the engine? It's leaking around there right now.
Also, does the sticky side of the gasket for the thermostat go on the housing or the engine? It's leaking around there right now.
Member
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Neptune City, NJ, USA
Car: 92 RS 25th Aniv. V8
Engine: 350 L05 TBI
Transmission: 700R4 Raptor
I had the same problem, yes you can ground out those wires and the fan should come on..If not replace em...
The sensor you have might be bad, thats what happened to me, also my temp gauge is not accurate, so when it looks like it should come on it dosent...I still wonder sometimes if I can trust that sensor, I say when in doubt turn on the air or defroster, play it safe...
------------------
(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)
--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag
The sensor you have might be bad, thats what happened to me, also my temp gauge is not accurate, so when it looks like it should come on it dosent...I still wonder sometimes if I can trust that sensor, I say when in doubt turn on the air or defroster, play it safe...
------------------
(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)
--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag
If the fan still does not come on .first do the simple basic test. take the wire off the sensor and ground it. if he fan comes on then you have a bad temp sender,also when you groud it and it still does not work then you have an open circuit between the sensor and the electric fan relay. when you replace the sensor do not use thread tape the reading will become inaccurate .On the part about the sticky part of the gasket ,I always put the sticky part on the housing and use permatex 2 on the intake to give me a leak free seal . Also you did not state if you have two fans or one fan . The reason why i ask is in a dual fan system the ac activates the second fan . good luck with your situation Wes
------------------
------------------
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Sounds like you may have replaced the wrong sensor, if you changed the one in the water outlet...
The one in question is in the pass side head between the #6 and #8 plugs. It has one terminal, which if you ground its wire (dark green), should turn the fan on.
The sticky side doesn't matter, and the gasket probably isn't the problem. The root cause of the leak is the fact that the water outlet is made out of chinesium, and if you tighten the bolts tight enough to keep them from falling out, you warp the water outlet. Then of course it can't possibly seal. You could put it in a vise and bend its ears back, but it will just do it again, and the ears might just break off anyway.
Get a new cast-iron one ($10) from the parts store and you'll never have a leak there again.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
The one in question is in the pass side head between the #6 and #8 plugs. It has one terminal, which if you ground its wire (dark green), should turn the fan on.
The sticky side doesn't matter, and the gasket probably isn't the problem. The root cause of the leak is the fact that the water outlet is made out of chinesium, and if you tighten the bolts tight enough to keep them from falling out, you warp the water outlet. Then of course it can't possibly seal. You could put it in a vise and bend its ears back, but it will just do it again, and the ears might just break off anyway.
Get a new cast-iron one ($10) from the parts store and you'll never have a leak there again.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
gta892000
Cooling
6
Sep 16, 2015 12:37 AM





