I've had so many troubles with my rotating assembly that I've torqued some of my new ARP Wavelock bolts like 8 or 9 times already. Somebody told me they can't be torqued more than like 3 times. Does anyone know for sure?

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??

 

Ive heard that, yes.



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85 Z28 - Daily Driver
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )

 

As I understand it, they can be used as long as they conform to the original parameters. I think .006 bolt streach (at rated torque) is what is normal. If its more than that replace it.

 

If you can only torque them three times before replacing them, then they wouldn't be reusable at all.

ARP specifically recommends the rod bolts be torqued then untorqued, then retorqued three times before making the final torque.

So you's torque, release; torque, release; torque, release; torque.

I've never seen anything that limits the use of the bolts based on how many times they're torqued. As long as you can get the proper stretch and not yield at the stretch point they can continue to be used.

If you're really concerned about this, shoot ARP an email.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

 

Thanks guys

 

The "torque 3 times" is recommended because most people don't have a rod bolt stretch guage. By torquing them 3 times you will have seated the rod bolt and cleaned off any burrs from the threads. The threads will have a polish on them and the final torque will be within .0003 of the recommended stretch.

A stretch guage is the only true way to tell the condition of the rod bolts. Once they have been stretched beyond the limits, they must be replaced.

When you do mock-ups etc and need to torque and retorque the rod bolts, they don't need to be taken to the final torque. If the final torque is 45 pounds, a mock-up using 10 pounds is fine. It's tight enough that everything won't move and it won't stretch the bolts prematurly.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car and knocking on the SuperPro ET class
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857
Best corrected ET: 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87
Best corrected MPH: 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Ok well I torqued mine to the final spec of 50 ft/lbs the correct way (three times each time) about 6 times on some of them and I wasn't using a stretch gauge. Would you suggest new ones or should I still be ok?

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??

 

Replace them for the peace of mind. Not that much $$$$ in the overall picture. Do it right the first time, I just spent more money and time because I did'nt and it was not fun, lucky for me all I needed was an oil pan. A rod commin loose would be alot more expensive, and would ruin your day.
Rob
1990 Formula 350

 

Don't forget to locktight the bolts with 262 (red) locktight also. Better safe than sorry.

I suppose it really depends on what you built the engine for. If it spends most of it's life below 5000 rpm then as long as the nuts are locktighted, the extra retorquing shouldn't really hurt them.

 

I think replacing the nuts about every three times is more appropriate than the bolts. I don't see a reason to replace bolts until you have the rod rebuilt and or the bigend resized.

The nut can develop very small cracks. And, it's usually not the bolt that fails. Normally, it has someting to do with the nut backing off.