what machine work do i need to get done, its a 68 327, it was ran without oil, but still ran when we pilled it, my dad said it had kinda a grumble tot he engine, so im thinking that it needs new mains, rod, and cam bearings, but also what else.
and what kind of machine work, i wanted magnifluxing, hot tanked, bored .30 over. what else should i get.
my complete budget is $1,000, i have the heads, and im going to reuse the stock bottom end but get new pistons, hynernetics because of the overbore.
then a torker II intake, 600cfm edelbrock, custom cam.
i want this engine to have the power band around 2500 to 6500.
the heads are going to be ported/polished 416's.
also what cam specs would you reccomend, i have no vacume accessories, this is in my 78 truck so im not worried, my goal is like 380hp, or a little more, no less, but the cam cat be too wild, i need to run it on 87 octane if i can.
and what kind of machine work, i wanted magnifluxing, hot tanked, bored .30 over. what else should i get.
my complete budget is $1,000, i have the heads, and im going to reuse the stock bottom end but get new pistons, hynernetics because of the overbore.
then a torker II intake, 600cfm edelbrock, custom cam.
i want this engine to have the power band around 2500 to 6500.
the heads are going to be ported/polished 416's.
also what cam specs would you reccomend, i have no vacume accessories, this is in my 78 truck so im not worried, my goal is like 380hp, or a little more, no less, but the cam cat be too wild, i need to run it on 87 octane if i can.
PS, this is a daily driver so i need to get gas milage, atleast 15 in the city.
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$1,000 budget, 380hp, 87 octane, 15 mpg.


five7kid
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You'll have to pull it apart to find out what it needs. Could be just bearings, but may have gouged the crank and hurt the rod big ends. What it will take to fix depends upon the extent of the damage (the cylinders might be fine, by the way).
If the crank is scored beyond what can be fixed by having it ground, the options are weld & grind, buy a different crank, or put in a 350 crank. If it is indeed a '68 block, it's large journal and a 350 crank will drop right in (with 350 pistons, of course). The 327 has some "uniqueness" value, but doesn't really have any other advantage over a 350 (including reving higher). If the rods aren't hurt too bad, resizing is all that'll be required. Otherwise, figure on new or refurbished rods with ARP bolts.
Your stated objectives and how you plan to approach them are in conflict. The Torquer II is a horrible street manifold. There's really no good excuse for its existance. If you want to stay with Edelbrock, get an RPM Air Gap. A Weiand Stealth is a good (better, even) piece for what you want to do, too.
I wouldn't do the Edelbrock carb, either. Holleys are so easy to make work and produce better overall results. But, that's just my personal bias.
If the crank is scored beyond what can be fixed by having it ground, the options are weld & grind, buy a different crank, or put in a 350 crank. If it is indeed a '68 block, it's large journal and a 350 crank will drop right in (with 350 pistons, of course). The 327 has some "uniqueness" value, but doesn't really have any other advantage over a 350 (including reving higher). If the rods aren't hurt too bad, resizing is all that'll be required. Otherwise, figure on new or refurbished rods with ARP bolts.
Your stated objectives and how you plan to approach them are in conflict. The Torquer II is a horrible street manifold. There's really no good excuse for its existance. If you want to stay with Edelbrock, get an RPM Air Gap. A Weiand Stealth is a good (better, even) piece for what you want to do, too.
I wouldn't do the Edelbrock carb, either. Holleys are so easy to make work and produce better overall results. But, that's just my personal bias.
ok well the reasoning behind the carb and intake are that i can get a fully tuned carb for $100, freash rebuild, new meetering rods, and tuned for me.
and the intkae for $80, thats why, i would prefer to not buy new if i cant help it to save cash. but i might go with the weiland intake then, get one off e-bay. but i am sticking with the edelbrock carb, got one on my camaro that i just sold, ran perfect and no problems the whole time i had it.
and the intkae for $80, thats why, i would prefer to not buy new if i cant help it to save cash. but i might go with the weiland intake then, get one off e-bay. but i am sticking with the edelbrock carb, got one on my camaro that i just sold, ran perfect and no problems the whole time i had it.
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spartyon
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Quote:
Originally posted by Squeeks83
ok well the reasoning behind the carb and intake are that i can get a carb for $100, freash rebuild, new meetering rods
you can get a rebuilt holley for that on ebay to. or get a core and rebuild it yourself.Originally posted by Squeeks83
ok well the reasoning behind the carb and intake are that i can get a carb for $100, freash rebuild, new meetering rods
If its a large journal 327, scrap the block get a 4 bolt 350 block for it, why skimp? But if you must, take 57's advise. You should be able to build it well under $1000. Funny yesterday my machinest offerd me a complete unassembled 350 setup (all new parts) for one of my 3 LG 327 builders.
ive got a 350 4-bolt block with standard bore and everything, complete stock specs, but id rather have the 327, everyone and their mother has a 350, kinda boring... same with a 383, thats why i am trying to get a 400 off a friend to try to build a 420 or something of that sort. that is if i dont build my 327, and i can get the same power out of the 327 as a 350, just different stroke, so it doesnt bother me, same parts as the 350, so same pricing.
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yeah a lj 327 is really unique. trash it and get a 350. if it was ran without oil very good chance you're going to have some damage to the crank and rods. 327 pistons cost a good bit more than 350. you ought to be able to get all of the machine work done on your 1000 dollar budget plus buy a few parts, but not many.
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Quote:
Originally posted by Squeeks83
ive got a 350 4-bolt block with standard bore and everything, complete stock specs, but id rather have the 327, everyone and their mother has a 350, kinda boring... same with a 383, thats why i am trying to get a 400 off a friend to try to build a 420 or something of that sort. that is if i dont build my 327, and i can get the same power out of the 327 as a 350, just different stroke, so it doesnt bother me, same parts as the 350, so same pricing.
Yes, build the 327 (or 331 with a 30 over bore). As others mentioned tear it down and see how good/bad it is. Then rebuild accordingly.Originally posted by Squeeks83
ive got a 350 4-bolt block with standard bore and everything, complete stock specs, but id rather have the 327, everyone and their mother has a 350, kinda boring... same with a 383, thats why i am trying to get a 400 off a friend to try to build a 420 or something of that sort. that is if i dont build my 327, and i can get the same power out of the 327 as a 350, just different stroke, so it doesnt bother me, same parts as the 350, so same pricing.
RBob.
Quote:
Originally posted by RBob
Yes, build the 327 (or 331 with a 30 over bore). As others mentioned tear it down and see how good/bad it is. Then rebuild accordingly.
RBob.
ya thats what im gonna do tomarrow, and if it is bad then im gonna build my 350, 4-bolt block i got in my garage, im going by the book plans out the John Lingenfelter's "how to build a small block chevy" i think like 389hp or something like that. so it aint gonna be to shabby.Originally posted by RBob
Yes, build the 327 (or 331 with a 30 over bore). As others mentioned tear it down and see how good/bad it is. Then rebuild accordingly.
RBob.

