rebuilding 327
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Avondale, AZ, used to be seattle, washington
Car: 1978 Chevrolet C10
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 350
rebuilding 327
what machine work do i need to get done, its a 68 327, it was ran without oil, but still ran when we pilled it, my dad said it had kinda a grumble tot he engine, so im thinking that it needs new mains, rod, and cam bearings, but also what else.
and what kind of machine work, i wanted magnifluxing, hot tanked, bored .30 over. what else should i get.
my complete budget is $1,000, i have the heads, and im going to reuse the stock bottom end but get new pistons, hynernetics because of the overbore.
then a torker II intake, 600cfm edelbrock, custom cam.
i want this engine to have the power band around 2500 to 6500.
the heads are going to be ported/polished 416's.
also what cam specs would you reccomend, i have no vacume accessories, this is in my 78 truck so im not worried, my goal is like 380hp, or a little more, no less, but the cam cat be too wild, i need to run it on 87 octane if i can.
and what kind of machine work, i wanted magnifluxing, hot tanked, bored .30 over. what else should i get.
my complete budget is $1,000, i have the heads, and im going to reuse the stock bottom end but get new pistons, hynernetics because of the overbore.
then a torker II intake, 600cfm edelbrock, custom cam.
i want this engine to have the power band around 2500 to 6500.
the heads are going to be ported/polished 416's.
also what cam specs would you reccomend, i have no vacume accessories, this is in my 78 truck so im not worried, my goal is like 380hp, or a little more, no less, but the cam cat be too wild, i need to run it on 87 octane if i can.
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 43,187
Likes: 43
From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You'll have to pull it apart to find out what it needs. Could be just bearings, but may have gouged the crank and hurt the rod big ends. What it will take to fix depends upon the extent of the damage (the cylinders might be fine, by the way).
If the crank is scored beyond what can be fixed by having it ground, the options are weld & grind, buy a different crank, or put in a 350 crank. If it is indeed a '68 block, it's large journal and a 350 crank will drop right in (with 350 pistons, of course). The 327 has some "uniqueness" value, but doesn't really have any other advantage over a 350 (including reving higher). If the rods aren't hurt too bad, resizing is all that'll be required. Otherwise, figure on new or refurbished rods with ARP bolts.
Your stated objectives and how you plan to approach them are in conflict. The Torquer II is a horrible street manifold. There's really no good excuse for its existance. If you want to stay with Edelbrock, get an RPM Air Gap. A Weiand Stealth is a good (better, even) piece for what you want to do, too.
I wouldn't do the Edelbrock carb, either. Holleys are so easy to make work and produce better overall results. But, that's just my personal bias.
If the crank is scored beyond what can be fixed by having it ground, the options are weld & grind, buy a different crank, or put in a 350 crank. If it is indeed a '68 block, it's large journal and a 350 crank will drop right in (with 350 pistons, of course). The 327 has some "uniqueness" value, but doesn't really have any other advantage over a 350 (including reving higher). If the rods aren't hurt too bad, resizing is all that'll be required. Otherwise, figure on new or refurbished rods with ARP bolts.
Your stated objectives and how you plan to approach them are in conflict. The Torquer II is a horrible street manifold. There's really no good excuse for its existance. If you want to stay with Edelbrock, get an RPM Air Gap. A Weiand Stealth is a good (better, even) piece for what you want to do, too.
I wouldn't do the Edelbrock carb, either. Holleys are so easy to make work and produce better overall results. But, that's just my personal bias.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Avondale, AZ, used to be seattle, washington
Car: 1978 Chevrolet C10
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 350
ok well the reasoning behind the carb and intake are that i can get a fully tuned carb for $100, freash rebuild, new meetering rods, and tuned for me.
and the intkae for $80, thats why, i would prefer to not buy new if i cant help it to save cash. but i might go with the weiland intake then, get one off e-bay. but i am sticking with the edelbrock carb, got one on my camaro that i just sold, ran perfect and no problems the whole time i had it.
and the intkae for $80, thats why, i would prefer to not buy new if i cant help it to save cash. but i might go with the weiland intake then, get one off e-bay. but i am sticking with the edelbrock carb, got one on my camaro that i just sold, ran perfect and no problems the whole time i had it.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 2,308
Likes: 2
From: winthrop harbor, il & plymouth, il
Car: 1986 camaro
Engine: 383 sbc
Transmission: th-400
Axle/Gears: 4th Gen 10 bolt/Detroit TrueTrac 4.
Originally posted by Squeeks83
ok well the reasoning behind the carb and intake are that i can get a carb for $100, freash rebuild, new meetering rods
ok well the reasoning behind the carb and intake are that i can get a carb for $100, freash rebuild, new meetering rods
Supreme Member

Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Co
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
If its a large journal 327, scrap the block get a 4 bolt 350 block for it, why skimp? But if you must, take 57's advise. You should be able to build it well under $1000. Funny yesterday my machinest offerd me a complete unassembled 350 setup (all new parts) for one of my 3 LG 327 builders.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Avondale, AZ, used to be seattle, washington
Car: 1978 Chevrolet C10
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 350
ive got a 350 4-bolt block with standard bore and everything, complete stock specs, but id rather have the 327, everyone and their mother has a 350, kinda boring... same with a 383, thats why i am trying to get a 400 off a friend to try to build a 420 or something of that sort. that is if i dont build my 327, and i can get the same power out of the 327 as a 350, just different stroke, so it doesnt bother me, same parts as the 350, so same pricing.
yeah a lj 327 is really unique. trash it and get a 350. if it was ran without oil very good chance you're going to have some damage to the crank and rods. 327 pistons cost a good bit more than 350. you ought to be able to get all of the machine work done on your 1000 dollar budget plus buy a few parts, but not many.
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 18,432
Likes: 233
From: Chasing Electrons
Car: check
Engine: check
Transmission: check
Originally posted by Squeeks83
ive got a 350 4-bolt block with standard bore and everything, complete stock specs, but id rather have the 327, everyone and their mother has a 350, kinda boring... same with a 383, thats why i am trying to get a 400 off a friend to try to build a 420 or something of that sort. that is if i dont build my 327, and i can get the same power out of the 327 as a 350, just different stroke, so it doesnt bother me, same parts as the 350, so same pricing.
ive got a 350 4-bolt block with standard bore and everything, complete stock specs, but id rather have the 327, everyone and their mother has a 350, kinda boring... same with a 383, thats why i am trying to get a 400 off a friend to try to build a 420 or something of that sort. that is if i dont build my 327, and i can get the same power out of the 327 as a 350, just different stroke, so it doesnt bother me, same parts as the 350, so same pricing.
RBob.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 973
Likes: 0
From: Avondale, AZ, used to be seattle, washington
Car: 1978 Chevrolet C10
Engine: 350
Transmission: Turbo 350
Originally posted by RBob
Yes, build the 327 (or 331 with a 30 over bore). As others mentioned tear it down and see how good/bad it is. Then rebuild accordingly.
RBob.
Yes, build the 327 (or 331 with a 30 over bore). As others mentioned tear it down and see how good/bad it is. Then rebuild accordingly.
RBob.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
3.8TransAM
NW Indiana and South Chicago Suburb
1
Sep 27, 2015 08:37 PM






