Ok it's that time again to change the rear brakes only one problem the wheel lug ,you know the special key ones that are designed with the engraved inserts well it's starting to strip and I can't get the wheel off any suggestions on how to finese or just brake this !@#% thing off would be appriciated.

 

Come on guys someone must have had this problem .known someone with it ANY help.

 

Get a cheap socket thats close to the right size. Get a good hammer and bash it onto it. That should do the trick, you may even be able to salvage the socket. If this doesnt work for ya let me know.

 

'84, The trick I used when mine were getting tired and I knew they had to go...
Get some red locktite, coat threads of lock and seat face of lock channels. Screw on the key, let sit about an hour, and then remove with an air gun. This worked well for three of four. The fourth popped off before I could crank her with a ton o' torque.

 

84 Bird,

WAARNING! This is NOT recommended by vehicle manufacturers and service organizations! Failing to follow manufacturers' instructions can result in serious injury!

That said, even though it isn't recommended. I usually apply anti-seize compound to the lug stud threads and the tapered faces of the lug nuts. This prevents rusting and "freezing" of the nuts in place. Unfortunately, it also increases the risk of lugs loosening during normal operation. Manufacturers recommend NO LUBRICANT of any kind on the lugs. I am always careful to torque the lug nuts to specifications (110 lb/ft on factory aluminum wheels), and check them periodically. I haven't had one loosen yet, but you should excersize extreme caution if you choose to do this.

Not a recommendation, just information.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Damn, you guys do things the hard way!

Put the other lugnuts on. Tighten them down very hard. Now put a big pair of pliers on the stripped locking nut and see if it will un-do.

This happens 'cause there's a ton of stress on that one stripped lugnut when it's the only lugnut holding the wheel on. Put the other 4 back on tight, and you remove the stress from the locker.

And if this quickie method doesn't work, then you have to do the "real" methods that the other guys mentioned.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Thanks for all the replys I am off tomarrow so I'll be trying each untill I find the one that works I'll let you Know how it goes. I was thinking of using a tourch but the wheels would have been ruined and Vader thanks for the suggestion I won't have this occur again . Thanks

 

Definitely use the hammer-the-socket-on method.

You'll need 12-point sockets, not 6-point. Get Crafstman sockets...if a cheap socket rips in half when you hammer it on, it won't do you any good. Plus you can return the Craftsman if it breaks.

Use a variety of inch and metric sockets to find the one that fits tightly. On my stock GM lug locks, I found a 3/4" 12-point to be a nice fit.