Ok machine shop pulled apart heads and found:

Bent valve
Warped Deck
no cracks

I will have the Cut the seats for bigger springs, but continue to use the smaller ones until i can afford to buy the double roller springs. This way i can just swap springs later on, instead of having to pull the heads and have the seats cut later on.

sound like a good idea?

also having them do a 3 angle valve job, and re cut the seat completelly because they were all a little warped. head re-surface too of course.

as for the rings i want to use a gapless second ring, the leakdown on this motor was in the 12% range because of the huge ring gaps... and im going to use the iron top ring with a moderate gap.

Everything sound good so far? oh yeah and the valve bent when i tightend the exhaust valve down to remove the fuel that hydrolocked the motor.

 

if your cam requires larger spring it's foolish to not run them. if you can't aford springs you can't aford a cam. i'd trash the pull out studs and the head machined for screw in while it's i nthe shop. gapless rings are a waste on anything but a race only engine. how can you bend a valve by tightening it down? how can you remove fuel by tightening a valve down, pulling the spark plug is a lot like opening a drain

 

Isnt this the 3rd or so valve you bent?

I'd listen to Ede and just bite the bullet now. Springs arent somthing I like to mess around with some of the beffier ones are a real PITA to compress down enough to install in the car. What is the lift on the cam? Just glancing at this Doug Herbert mag thier brand (GRHHcough comp springs) are failry cheap most excpensive set $219, they range from $39+ for the performance and Alpha series.

 

you guys are barking up the wrong tree!

The springs are brand new. the valve are also brand new, undercut stems and titanium retainers...

it bent because i tightened it down to push the fuel out of the cylinder. i could not remove the plug, header was in the way.

the edelbrocks come with screw in studs.

My main question about the springs was right now I can only do .575 max lift but im planning on a hydraulic roller with almost .600 lift, I want to put doubles on it. problem is doubles are aout .1 bigger around, so i was getting the seats cut for them. i dont have the cash for the doubles, retro fit rollers, roller cam pushrods, and hardware right now so i was going to continue to use those springs. i was worried the extra large seat may cause the spring to wobble around, thats all i was asking.

The springs are more than adequate for the cam thats in there, its only a .488 lift XE cam, the springs can take .575.

 

If you run small diameter springs (1.25") you can do so without using "spring cups." Spring cups are used, amongst other things, to center a smaller spring (and keep it centered) in a spring pocket that is significantly larger than the diameter of the spring itself. However, I have found that smaller 1.25" springs don't walk around very much even without spring cups. I run my Iron Eagles like that with 1.25" springs even though the heads are cut for larger 1.55" springs. If you're the nervous type you might be able to find some 1.25" spring cups but I couldn't tell you where- I never went looking.

If you're talking about putting temporarily, say 1.45" springs in a 1.55" spring pocket I would recommend you get some spring cups. The larger the diameter of the spring the more it tries to walk around on you.

Forget the gapless rings. Best case: not good bang/buck. Worst case: harmful. Having a small amount of blow-by on the ring pack helps keep them from loading up and letting oil past.