engine knocking ?????
10-04-2003, 12:15 AM
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engine knocking ?????
hello
hey i was wondering if anyone can give me advice on what might be wrong with my engine....ok
i got a 87 trans am gta. its a 305 tpi 69 K miles on it
i was driving down the expressway and was getting off on the exit ramp when all of a sudden a knocking came over my engine..i pull into a parking spot where it died out on me. it wouldnt start right away but after a couple minutes it started again. i called my dad and he said i didnt have any oil in it. i went to the nearest gas station where i got a quart of oil (thats all the money i had on me). it seemed to run a little better but not for long. so i drive it to a near by dealer ship where they put in 4 quarts for me. but that didnt help at all the knocking got worse. i got almost home and my car stalls out near a auto shop. i push it into the shop and the auto machanic tell me just from hearing the knocking that my engine is blown and i need a new one. now this is where yall come in. im not really convinced with his answer and ive talked to a few people who have mixed opinions on what it could be.
now anything you guys know please help me out cuz i really dont want to spend 4 thousand plus on a new enigine when it would be something alot cheaper
hey i was wondering if anyone can give me advice on what might be wrong with my engine....ok
i got a 87 trans am gta. its a 305 tpi 69 K miles on it
i was driving down the expressway and was getting off on the exit ramp when all of a sudden a knocking came over my engine..i pull into a parking spot where it died out on me. it wouldnt start right away but after a couple minutes it started again. i called my dad and he said i didnt have any oil in it. i went to the nearest gas station where i got a quart of oil (thats all the money i had on me). it seemed to run a little better but not for long. so i drive it to a near by dealer ship where they put in 4 quarts for me. but that didnt help at all the knocking got worse. i got almost home and my car stalls out near a auto shop. i push it into the shop and the auto machanic tell me just from hearing the knocking that my engine is blown and i need a new one. now this is where yall come in. im not really convinced with his answer and ive talked to a few people who have mixed opinions on what it could be.
now anything you guys know please help me out cuz i really dont want to spend 4 thousand plus on a new enigine when it would be something alot cheaper
10-04-2003, 12:31 AM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
damn, sorry to hear bout that, sounds like u let her run dry, u must have been either leaking oil or burning oil, did ur car smoke pretty bad??? sorry to hear to news, more than likely u ruined it and it will need rebuilt,
10-04-2003, 12:43 AM
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28 5.7 G92
Engine: L98 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: TH700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi G80
I'm just curious if your service engine light has come on. The knock sensor should have detected it if your engine was detonating, unless your knock sensor is bad. Either way you should get a code. If not try to listen for the knock. Where did it sound like it was coming from. If you are simply low on oil the first thing you should have noticed was the rocker arms making a clicking sound from under the valve covers. If you let it go then you might have spun a connecting rod bearing which would cause the journal on the crank to gring down to the point which the conecting rod is loose on the journal causing the knock. It will sound like someone is tapping on you engine block with a huge wrench from inside and it will get worse as you rev it up. If this is what it's doing your engine is not exactly blown. You just need to pull it out and either get your crank reground or get a new one. If your engine is detonating from bad gas or too much timing it will sound like a diesel engine.
10-04-2003, 12:47 AM
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Originally posted by GASGZLR
I'm just curious if your service engine light has come on. The knock sensor should have detected it if your engine was detonating, unless your knock sensor is bad. Either way you should get a code. If not try to listen for the knock. Where did it sound like it was coming from. If you are simply low on oil the first thing you should have noticed was the rocker arms making a clicking sound from under the valve covers. If you let it go then you might have spun a connecting rod bearing which would cause the journal on the crank to gring down to the point which the conecting rod is loose on the journal causing the knock. It will sound like someone is tapping on you engine block with a huge wrench from inside and it will get worse as you rev it up. If this is what it's doing your engine is not exactly blown. You just need to pull it out and either get your crank reground or get a new one. If your engine is detonating from bad gas or too much timing it will sound like a diesel engine.
I'm just curious if your service engine light has come on. The knock sensor should have detected it if your engine was detonating, unless your knock sensor is bad. Either way you should get a code. If not try to listen for the knock. Where did it sound like it was coming from. If you are simply low on oil the first thing you should have noticed was the rocker arms making a clicking sound from under the valve covers. If you let it go then you might have spun a connecting rod bearing which would cause the journal on the crank to gring down to the point which the conecting rod is loose on the journal causing the knock. It will sound like someone is tapping on you engine block with a huge wrench from inside and it will get worse as you rev it up. If this is what it's doing your engine is not exactly blown. You just need to pull it out and either get your crank reground or get a new one. If your engine is detonating from bad gas or too much timing it will sound like a diesel engine.
the auto machanic said it was a broken crankshaft but from my knowledge it wouldnt even turn over if the crankshat was broken.
because it still runs just a really loud knock. and the knock is coming from inside the valve covers im pretty sure or somewhere inside the engine....im not really sure i dont know much
10-04-2003, 12:47 AM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
sounds to me, like someone was runnin the **** out of it, blew***** a seal lost oil and kabamm. but idk lol :P
Last edited by 87z28camaro; 10-04-2003 at 12:54 AM.
10-04-2003, 12:50 AM
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Originally posted by 87z28camaro
sounds to me, like someone was runnin the **** out of it, blue a seal lost oil and kabamm. but idk lol :P
sounds to me, like someone was runnin the **** out of it, blue a seal lost oil and kabamm. but idk lol :P
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10-04-2003, 12:52 AM
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Originally posted by GASGZLR
I'm just curious if your service engine light has come on. The knock sensor should have detected it if your engine was detonating, unless your knock sensor is bad. Either way you should get a code. If not try to listen for the knock. Where did it sound like it was coming from. If you are simply low on oil the first thing you should have noticed was the rocker arms making a clicking sound from under the valve covers. If you let it go then you might have spun a connecting rod bearing which would cause the journal on the crank to gring down to the point which the conecting rod is loose on the journal causing the knock. It will sound like someone is tapping on you engine block with a huge wrench from inside and it will get worse as you rev it up. If this is what it's doing your engine is not exactly blown. You just need to pull it out and either get your crank reground or get a new one. If your engine is detonating from bad gas or too much timing it will sound like a diesel engine.
I'm just curious if your service engine light has come on. The knock sensor should have detected it if your engine was detonating, unless your knock sensor is bad. Either way you should get a code. If not try to listen for the knock. Where did it sound like it was coming from. If you are simply low on oil the first thing you should have noticed was the rocker arms making a clicking sound from under the valve covers. If you let it go then you might have spun a connecting rod bearing which would cause the journal on the crank to gring down to the point which the conecting rod is loose on the journal causing the knock. It will sound like someone is tapping on you engine block with a huge wrench from inside and it will get worse as you rev it up. If this is what it's doing your engine is not exactly blown. You just need to pull it out and either get your crank reground or get a new one. If your engine is detonating from bad gas or too much timing it will sound like a diesel engine.
10-04-2003, 02:15 PM
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
if you really did run it that low on oil you probably at least spun a bearing/damaged some/all of the main bearings which would explain the knock.. does it do it all the time or only at certian rpms? what kind of pressure is your oil pressure gauge showing?
10-04-2003, 04:01 PM
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Originally posted by 89RsPower!
if you really did run it that low on oil you probably at least spun a bearing/damaged some/all of the main bearings which would explain the knock.. does it do it all the time or only at certian rpms? what kind of pressure is your oil pressure gauge showing?
if you really did run it that low on oil you probably at least spun a bearing/damaged some/all of the main bearings which would explain the knock.. does it do it all the time or only at certian rpms? what kind of pressure is your oil pressure gauge showing?
10-04-2003, 04:13 PM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...t=reading+code go to that thread, tells u exactly how to do it, so i take it that it is throwing the code
10-04-2003, 04:50 PM
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Originally posted by 87z28camaro
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...t=reading+code go to that thread, tells u exactly how to do it, so i take it that it is throwing the code
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...t=reading+code go to that thread, tells u exactly how to do it, so i take it that it is throwing the code
10-04-2003, 08:02 PM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
ok im just typing from what it says from my haynes book, however this is a camaro book but it should work....
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Loacate the Assembly line diagnostic link (aldl), usually under the instrument panel. it may be within a plasitic cover or housing labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR. this link is used to communicate with the ECM.
2. use a small jumper wire (paper clip) to connect terminal b of the aldl to terminal A. as the aldl connector is viewed from the front, Terminal A is on the extreme right of upper row; Terminal B is second from the right on the upper row.
3. after the terminals are connected, turn the ignition switch to the ON position but DO NOT start the engine. The dash warning lamp should begin to flas code 12. the code will display as one flas, a pause and 2 flashes. CODE 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system ackowledgement or handsake code; its presence indicates that the ECM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence.
4 after code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, each be glashed in the same manner three times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowere to highest.
---> the order of codes in the memory does not indicate the order of occurrence.
5. if one or more codes are stored. record them. at the end of the procedure, perform a visual and physical check of each system.
6. switch the igniton OFF when finished with code retrieval....
ok thats the best i can do , thanks to the haynes manual, ok what u do now is follow the steps i have stated above, if u do not have a haynes manual, just read the codes, and put them on here and i or some other member will tell u what code(S) it is throwing,
Bigler
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Loacate the Assembly line diagnostic link (aldl), usually under the instrument panel. it may be within a plasitic cover or housing labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR. this link is used to communicate with the ECM.
2. use a small jumper wire (paper clip) to connect terminal b of the aldl to terminal A. as the aldl connector is viewed from the front, Terminal A is on the extreme right of upper row; Terminal B is second from the right on the upper row.
3. after the terminals are connected, turn the ignition switch to the ON position but DO NOT start the engine. The dash warning lamp should begin to flas code 12. the code will display as one flas, a pause and 2 flashes. CODE 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system ackowledgement or handsake code; its presence indicates that the ECM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence.
4 after code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, each be glashed in the same manner three times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowere to highest.
---> the order of codes in the memory does not indicate the order of occurrence.
5. if one or more codes are stored. record them. at the end of the procedure, perform a visual and physical check of each system.
6. switch the igniton OFF when finished with code retrieval....
ok thats the best i can do , thanks to the haynes manual, ok what u do now is follow the steps i have stated above, if u do not have a haynes manual, just read the codes, and put them on here and i or some other member will tell u what code(S) it is throwing,
Bigler
10-04-2003, 08:16 PM
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Originally posted by 87z28camaro
ok im just typing from what it says from my haynes book, however this is a camaro book but it should work....
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Loacate the Assembly line diagnostic link (aldl), usually under the instrument panel. it may be within a plasitic cover or housing labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR. this link is used to communicate with the ECM.
2. use a small jumper wire (paper clip) to connect terminal b of the aldl to terminal A. as the aldl connector is viewed from the front, Terminal A is on the extreme right of upper row; Terminal B is second from the right on the upper row.
3. after the terminals are connected, turn the ignition switch to the ON position but DO NOT start the engine. The dash warning lamp should begin to flas code 12. the code will display as one flas, a pause and 2 flashes. CODE 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system ackowledgement or handsake code; its presence indicates that the ECM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence.
4 after code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, each be glashed in the same manner three times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowere to highest.
---> the order of codes in the memory does not indicate the order of occurrence.
5. if one or more codes are stored. record them. at the end of the procedure, perform a visual and physical check of each system.
6. switch the igniton OFF when finished with code retrieval....
ok thats the best i can do , thanks to the haynes manual, ok what u do now is follow the steps i have stated above, if u do not have a haynes manual, just read the codes, and put them on here and i or some other member will tell u what code(S) it is throwing,
Bigler
ok im just typing from what it says from my haynes book, however this is a camaro book but it should work....
1. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Loacate the Assembly line diagnostic link (aldl), usually under the instrument panel. it may be within a plasitic cover or housing labeled DIAGNOSTIC CONNECTOR. this link is used to communicate with the ECM.
2. use a small jumper wire (paper clip) to connect terminal b of the aldl to terminal A. as the aldl connector is viewed from the front, Terminal A is on the extreme right of upper row; Terminal B is second from the right on the upper row.
3. after the terminals are connected, turn the ignition switch to the ON position but DO NOT start the engine. The dash warning lamp should begin to flas code 12. the code will display as one flas, a pause and 2 flashes. CODE 12 is not a fault code. It is used as a system ackowledgement or handsake code; its presence indicates that the ECM can communicate as requested. Code 12 is used to begin every diagnostic sequence.
4 after code 12 has been transmitted 3 times, the fault codes, if any, each be glashed in the same manner three times. The codes are stored and transmitted in numeric order from lowere to highest.
---> the order of codes in the memory does not indicate the order of occurrence.
5. if one or more codes are stored. record them. at the end of the procedure, perform a visual and physical check of each system.
6. switch the igniton OFF when finished with code retrieval....
ok thats the best i can do , thanks to the haynes manual, ok what u do now is follow the steps i have stated above, if u do not have a haynes manual, just read the codes, and put them on here and i or some other member will tell u what code(S) it is throwing,
Bigler
10-04-2003, 09:27 PM
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Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
yep a real paper clip, hope i helped ya out some, when u find out what codes its puttin out let us know, then we can help you more
10-04-2003, 11:08 PM
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Originally posted by 87z28camaro
yep a real paper clip, hope i helped ya out some, when u find out what codes its puttin out let us know, then we can help you more
yep a real paper clip, hope i helped ya out some, when u find out what codes its puttin out let us know, then we can help you more
10-31-2003, 05:38 PM
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Car: 87 firebird
Engine: 350
I have a similar knock. I was afraid that I blew my engine but after further investigation its a just damm dent in the oil pan causing a rod to hit it. hopefully this weekend I will be able to get to my brothers house where I can take the engine out and fix it. In the end you gotta pull the engine and examine the bearings and such, flywheel too because those can make a hell of knock. good luck
11-02-2003, 11:19 AM
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Originally posted by MrStein
I have a similar knock. I was afraid that I blew my engine but after further investigation its a just damm dent in the oil pan causing a rod to hit it. hopefully this weekend I will be able to get to my brothers house where I can take the engine out and fix it. In the end you gotta pull the engine and examine the bearings and such, flywheel too because those can make a hell of knock. good luck
I have a similar knock. I was afraid that I blew my engine but after further investigation its a just damm dent in the oil pan causing a rod to hit it. hopefully this weekend I will be able to get to my brothers house where I can take the engine out and fix it. In the end you gotta pull the engine and examine the bearings and such, flywheel too because those can make a hell of knock. good luck
11-02-2003, 02:15 PM
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the exact same thing happened to my 91 RS, i ran over some railroad ties, ripped out the drainplug and the oilpan emptied, engine died... I got it towed to my house where i replaced the oil and after about 30 mins, it started back up again... about 1 week later, i started hearing a knocking noise, i stopped driving it, assuming that my car was toast, but I can still start it to this day... still the noise, but no check engine light.... I just planned on swapping a new engine in.. sooo, i dunno..
11-03-2003, 04:06 PM
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Originally posted by SchwarzCamaroRS
the exact same thing happened to my 91 RS, i ran over some railroad ties, ripped out the drainplug and the oilpan emptied, engine died... I got it towed to my house where i replaced the oil and after about 30 mins, it started back up again... about 1 week later, i started hearing a knocking noise, i stopped driving it, assuming that my car was toast, but I can still start it to this day... still the noise, but no check engine light.... I just planned on swapping a new engine in.. sooo, i dunno..
the exact same thing happened to my 91 RS, i ran over some railroad ties, ripped out the drainplug and the oilpan emptied, engine died... I got it towed to my house where i replaced the oil and after about 30 mins, it started back up again... about 1 week later, i started hearing a knocking noise, i stopped driving it, assuming that my car was toast, but I can still start it to this day... still the noise, but no check engine light.... I just planned on swapping a new engine in.. sooo, i dunno..
sounds exactly the same...i just hope i dont have to get a new engine
11-04-2003, 10:44 PM
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Originally posted by SchwarzCamaroRS
well, i do plan on it.. haha, my 305 is rediculous... i hate it... im getting a 350 all the way.... ;-)
well, i do plan on it.. haha, my 305 is rediculous... i hate it... im getting a 350 all the way.... ;-)
11-06-2003, 02:06 AM
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LOL, i dont have that kinda money either... thats why my camaro has been under a cover parked on the side of my street for almost 3 months... ;-) ive been slowly saving... the engine Im going to get is only 1300 and i need to buy a new flexplate to make it fit the 1 pc seal on my current one, so theres another 60 bucks... I plan on doing the swap myself, just takes time...
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