Alright guys, you've got to help me. I currently own no tools. I am only 21, and my budding interest in working on cars has led me to believe I need these if I want to do more than change my air filter. I have done a little research on the mechanics of cars, so I'm not a total idiot when it comes to understanding how they work. However, I am an idiot when it comes to tools. If I ever want to turn my 305 TBI into a speed demon (don't tell me I need a 350, I already know that!), I need to get some tools. I was looking at this set which had three socket wrenches and 61 sockets with both SAE and metric sizes. It also had some of the longer style sockets. Is this good? I'm trying to get enough tools to where I could do most bolt-on mods. By the way, what the heck is a torque wrench and how much are they? I know that it seems everything on an engine has to be tightened to a certain torque. Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

i'd say for general repair and mods, a decent sized like Craftsman set should work. Also, at least with TPI, a set of Torx bits is pretty necessary.
Torque wrenches are usually pretty expensive and dont seem absolutely necessary to me, unless you are getting into stuff that needs to be exact.

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90 IROC 5.7l (L98)
ram air, K&N's, air foil,Flows

LIKE A ROC

 

you can never have enough tools and you get what you pay for. craftsman makes decent cheap tools and they replace them when they break. you can get a good set for less money at sears than anyplace else i know of. i'd say you'd need wrenches and sockets from 1/4 to 1 inch and 5mm to 24mm, plus torx and allen bits. as well as all the other things like screwdrivers etc. personally i like and buy snap on tools, but a ratchet form snap on will buy a small set of tools from sears.

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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd

 

Aside from the metrics, a T-45 torx tool is indespensible when working on TPI systems. T-10 or T-11 are needed for engine dressings, etc.

 

If you go to Sears, make sure you get "craftsman" tools not "Sears." The "sears" tools are even cheaper and i dont think have the warranty. Also check the contents of the sets carefully - sometimes a set with more pieces will be cheaper because there are 20 hacksaw blades or somethinf stupid like that. You definately need a basic set with screwdrivers, sockets, wrenches, maybe a hammer and a few punches, some pliers and cutters, a small flashlight, a scraper/putty knife. Dont forget a good quality floor jack and at least 2 jack stands.

 

That all sounds like a good start. As you do different things, you'll come across more specialized tools you need, and thats how you build up a great set. A torque wrench measure the amount of "torque" or twisting force you are putting on the nut. There are two kinds, the better of the two has a dial on the head to set the torque desired. You can get them pretty much any where that sells tools.

 

You can never have enough tools. I've been a mechanic for over 20 years and I'm still buying tools. Today I bought another dial indicator because it was on sale. Last week it was a couple of specialty sockets. Next week, who knows.

Start with a basic set of wrenches and sockets. You'll find that you need both standard and metric to work on todays cars.
Buy other tools as you need them. Package deals such as a complete set of torx sockets may look good but if you only need 1 or 2 of them then the rest were a waste of money. Someday down the road you may actually need the sockets you never use. Buy it at that time.

Wrenches are another big item. With many different styles and shapes it seems you never have the exact one you need. I can think of at least 3 more styles of "standard" wrench sets that I could use in my box but just don't have any more room.

Use the other suggestions about Craftsman sets. They're a really good start for tools.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley

 

yes i do agree w/ looking at the contents of your tool kit before buying. someone bought me a "400 piece" tool set when i was like 13 (ive been fixing stuff for years) and the bulk of that was little metric wrenches punched out of 1/8" steel..lol and also a container full of screws and washers. i dont think more reputable brands such as craftsman try to pull that crap though. but hey, you never know who's trying to pull your leg

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350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake 600 cfm carb and exhaust, headers

 

There are many more than two kinds of torque wrench. The cheapest ones are the "deflecting beam" type, which aren't all that accurate. Slightly better are the dial indicator types, but most agree that the "click" types are most accurate.

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1984 Silver Z28, decked 383 cid 4 bolt, ARP Fasteners, 2 1/2" Cowl Induction Hood, 600 cfm Performer Carburetor, Torker II Intake, Performer RPM Heads, XE268H Cam, Magnum Roller Tip Rockers, MSD6AL Ignition, Blaster2 Coil, Recurved HEI Distributor, 700R4, TransGo SK, 2.73:1 Limited Slip Dana 44, Terminator Headers, Custom 3" TIG Welded Stainless Exhaust, Flo-Pro Twister Muffler, 4 Wheel Disc Brakes, Oil Cooler

 

where i work at...csk auto...we sell torque wrenches for 45 bucks or so. the dial is controlled with a twist of the handle. when the book says torque to 20lbs i go "ehhh thats about 20lbs!" LOL. still havent bought one. get a socket set 50 or more. craftsman or something with a lifetime warranty. sure snap-on is the best but you could buy a new crate motor for the price of a full size tool box...hmm....which one would i pick. have fun. Rick

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Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 small block, Hooker 1 3/4 super comp long tubes, Random Tech Cat, Hooker aero chamber cat back on the way!!
TH700-R4 with Trans-Go shift kit
MacEwen Motorsports White Gauge Overlays
K&N Filter Charger (wooohooo)
GTS Headlight and Taillight covers
5% Limo Tint all around
Classic White Chevy Bowtie sticker on rear window
www.geocities.com/esvalenz

Man if my camaro were a rice-rocket all those mods would give me what...easily 50-60 hp!!!

 

Thanks for all the replies. It certainly seems Craftsman is the way to go. Definitely going to get jacks and jack stands too. I think a moderate sized set will be a good place to start.

 

I bought my buddy a Craftsman set last year to replace the tools a fire took care of; I almost bought the same one for myself. It was a 55 piece, for I think $45, and had metric & sae sockets. The 75 piece one ($65 I think?) had the deep sockets- also very nice.

Definately avoid the cheap-o no-name Kmart/Walmart/etc tool sets. It seems like they're made out of pot metal (junk metal, whatever they've got, they melt in the pot and pour into a mold) or something... they snap/strip/etc very easily.

Contrary to what some people said, I believe a torque wrench is one of the first things you should get. Yeah it won't matter for oil changes or spark plugs, but there's stuff that needs a torque spec- for instance, intake manifolds are usually aluminum. Steel bolts go into them- tighten them too much, and you can strip the aluminum. Same with a transmission pan. The opposite's true for something like, say, a front strut-to-steering-knuckle bolt. Spec says 200 ft/lbs. What -I- think is tight as hell might not be anything close to 200 ft/lbs! Who can tell between 130 ft/lbs and 200?

Here's a list for ya that I typed up in my idle time a while ago... these seem to cover the basics.

wheel ramps (should be wide enough for your tires)
wheel chocks (REQUIRED to block your wheels when your car's on the ramps)
pliers
Quality Socket set (w/Metric AND SAE) (55 piece for $45 at Sears)
spark plug socket (5/8"), comes in most socket sets
spark plug gapping tool (fold-out blades or plier-type, NOT the keychain disk!)
set of good screwdrivers
clicking torque wrench that you'll use alot ($30)
1/2" and 9/16" box wrenches
1/2" drive to 3/8" drive reducer ($5, lets torque wrench fit ratchet set)
oil filter wrench (compression band type = better than socket-type)
small & large adjustable wrenches
test light probe (preferably "computer-safe")
"squirter" lube can (to hold engine oil)
4-way lug wrench (make sure one end fits your lug nuts!!)
small funnel to fit your auto tranny's dipstick tube
large funnel to put oil in the car
pan to catch oil/antifreeze/etc.
milk jugs w/screw-on caps to hold oil/antifreeze/etc.
rags or paper towels
newspaper for the floor
tool box (probably the best part?)
2.5 ton hydraulic jack
pair of 3 ton jackstands
wrench set (w/Metric AND SAE)


[edit] I forgot to mention two places: http://www.eastwoodcompany.com is great for specialty tools (bodywork, welding, brakework, more). http://www.harborfreight.com is a discount tool store; some stuff is made cheaply by no-name companies, but sometimes they have "real" stuff cheap (campbell-hausfeld air compressors, Lincoln Electric welders, etc). I bought a few air tools from them and am happy with 'em (altho they were no-names). Plus I'd assume their pliers and c-clamps and hammers are as good as the next guy's! You can get free catalogs from both websites.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

[This message has been edited by TomP (edited December 01, 2000).]