i'm stuck at work, need help fast
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
i'm stuck at work, need help fast
my car is running horrible, first, some backround. it was a 305 tbi 1988 trans am. i swapped in a gm 350 h.o. crate engine. holly 650 dp carb. timing is at 16 btdc. i have 4000 mi on the combo, all parts were new and ran fine before today. i drove to work today fine until i stopped at a stop light, and the engine quit. i started it and i would have to keep the rpms high or it would die. now im done with work and need to get home. i can get it to run but it just runs bad, its a little shaky. if i rev it it sputters. i pulled a spark plug and it a powdery black(could it be because of me reving it). timing hasnt changed. yesterday i was messing with the carb trying to lower the idle, maybe i was turning the wrong screw, idk. can u help at all. i need to get home
thanks
thanks
well if all your plugs are like that, then you probably fouled them up. Might need to pull them and clean em off with a brush or sand paper. Even if you get the carb running right, if the plugs are fouled it won't burn the fuel in the cylinders. Holleys are finicky when it comes to setting the idle right. The throttle plates need to be close to shut with only a small amount of the transfer slots showing. If you adjust the mixture screws and it has no effect on idle then you have the throttle plate to far open at idle.
Also is your choke operating correctly if you have one.
Also is your choke operating correctly if you have one.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Sounds like the carb is flooding.
Remove the carb needles and seats assemblies and blow/wash them out.
reinstall them and reset the float level.
(screw driver and 5/8" wrench)
The plugs are fouled now and will need to be replaced.
Cleaning off the carbon will only help temperairly.
get new ones.
Get a good inline fuel filter to avoid the flooding problems.
Remove the carb needles and seats assemblies and blow/wash them out.
reinstall them and reset the float level.
(screw driver and 5/8" wrench)
The plugs are fouled now and will need to be replaced.
Cleaning off the carbon will only help temperairly.
get new ones.
Get a good inline fuel filter to avoid the flooding problems.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by jimmy_mac
well if all your plugs are like that, then you probably fouled them up. Might need to pull them and clean em off with a brush or sand paper. Even if you get the carb running right, if the plugs are fouled it won't burn the fuel in the cylinders. Holleys are finicky when it comes to setting the idle right. The throttle plates need to be close to shut with only a small amount of the transfer slots showing. If you adjust the mixture screws and it has no effect on idle then you have the throttle plate to far open at idle.
Also is your choke operating correctly if you have one.
well if all your plugs are like that, then you probably fouled them up. Might need to pull them and clean em off with a brush or sand paper. Even if you get the carb running right, if the plugs are fouled it won't burn the fuel in the cylinders. Holleys are finicky when it comes to setting the idle right. The throttle plates need to be close to shut with only a small amount of the transfer slots showing. If you adjust the mixture screws and it has no effect on idle then you have the throttle plate to far open at idle.
Also is your choke operating correctly if you have one.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
Sounds like the carb is flooding.
Remove the carb needles and seats assemblies and blow/wash them out.
reinstall them and reset the float level.
(screw driver and 5/8" wrench)
The plugs are fouled now and will need to be replaced.
Cleaning off the carbon will only help temperairly.
get new ones.
Get a good inline fuel filter to avoid the flooding problems.
Sounds like the carb is flooding.
Remove the carb needles and seats assemblies and blow/wash them out.
reinstall them and reset the float level.
(screw driver and 5/8" wrench)
The plugs are fouled now and will need to be replaced.
Cleaning off the carbon will only help temperairly.
get new ones.
Get a good inline fuel filter to avoid the flooding problems.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by cr125r
just take out the screws that u use to set the float level? blow them off, and put them back in. also, yesterday, i was fixing a leaky fuel line and it is possible that a piece of teflon tape got through. thansk for all the help guys
just take out the screws that u use to set the float level? blow them off, and put them back in. also, yesterday, i was fixing a leaky fuel line and it is possible that a piece of teflon tape got through. thansk for all the help guys
reinstall it and adjust the fuel height till the fuel just comes up to the site plug hole.
Teflon tape will do that. use the liquid. Get a fuel filter.
Look down the carb inlet while running to see which side is flooding ( primary or sec side) fix that one.
Watch your hair. LOL
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
You have to unscrew the lock screw, turn out the adjusting nut till the needle and seat comes up and out. Remove it and clean it.
reinstall it and adjust the fuel height till the fuel just comes up to the site plug hole.
Teflon tape will do that. use the liquid. Get a fuel filter.
Look down the carb inlet while running to see which side is flooding ( primary or sec side) fix that one.
Watch your hair. LOL
You have to unscrew the lock screw, turn out the adjusting nut till the needle and seat comes up and out. Remove it and clean it.
reinstall it and adjust the fuel height till the fuel just comes up to the site plug hole.
Teflon tape will do that. use the liquid. Get a fuel filter.
Look down the carb inlet while running to see which side is flooding ( primary or sec side) fix that one.
Watch your hair. LOL
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
ok, well, im home now. i couldnt take my car. either im gonna have to clean it out or have someone do it. def. dont know how to do it, ill run a search.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
no clue, am i going ot need a rebuild kit? what will i need to do, just blow out all the jets? there has to be teflon tape somewhere in there
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by cr125r
no clue, am i going ot need a rebuild kit? what will i need to do, just blow out all the jets? there has to be teflon tape somewhere in there
no clue, am i going ot need a rebuild kit? what will i need to do, just blow out all the jets? there has to be teflon tape somewhere in there
You won't need a rebuild kit unless you tear a gasket.
I suggest you get a book on servicing Holley carbs.
One of the haynes series or HP series books are good.
Many well stock performance oriented auto parts stores stock them. You can order them online at amazon too.
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books
and or http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...glance&s=books
There is no fixed base setting for the idle mixture screws.
1.5 to 2 turns out usually is good enough to start the car.
let the motor fully warm up to operation temp.
Adjust the idle mixture screws (could be 2 or 4 screws) slowly to achieve the best idle manifold vacuum and speed. Then reset the idle speed screw to set the idle speed.
Fix the flooding condition first and replace the spark plugs.
Do you have a inline fuel filter in the fuel line before the carb?
Best $13 you'll spend on your carb.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Oct 14, 2003 at 01:59 AM.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: ME.
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: TPI
Transmission: 5-speed Rear:3.73
The best thing you can do is $hit can the holley!!!!!!!!!!
its a great carb. when it works right,but it is really touchy....
My experiance with holleys is this...for track,drags racing,etc. holley works tit,but everyday driving sucks! I know theres alot of people that disagree,but after you have messed with them over and over you'll begin to hate them too, or when the floats stick open and gas your motor up...I went to the edelbrock
on my other Z-28 I took it apart as soon as it came out out of the box ,set the floats (because factory settings are off) bought the needles and spring kit to get it where I wanted ,and never had a problem with it what so ever,
and that motor had just a hair under 400HP and it went nice.
either way good luck,let us know when you get it all running
its a great carb. when it works right,but it is really touchy....
My experiance with holleys is this...for track,drags racing,etc. holley works tit,but everyday driving sucks! I know theres alot of people that disagree,but after you have messed with them over and over you'll begin to hate them too, or when the floats stick open and gas your motor up...I went to the edelbrock
on my other Z-28 I took it apart as soon as it came out out of the box ,set the floats (because factory settings are off) bought the needles and spring kit to get it where I wanted ,and never had a problem with it what so ever,
and that motor had just a hair under 400HP and it went nice.
either way good luck,let us know when you get it all running
Originally posted by Z dude
The best thing you can do is $hit can the holley!!!!!!!!!!
its a great carb. when it works right,but it is really touchy....
The best thing you can do is $hit can the holley!!!!!!!!!!
its a great carb. when it works right,but it is really touchy....
But I aslo think they are easier to troubleshoot and work on. Just not a good carb for someone to bolt on and go, like they advertise.
Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: ME.
Car: 1991 Z-28
Engine: TPI
Transmission: 5-speed Rear:3.73
exactly! theres not much to em...and if they ever need rebuilding
its a snap. They do have newer type Holleys that are better than they used to be,Jegs, Summit selles them,its all personal preferance
its a snap. They do have newer type Holleys that are better than they used to be,Jegs, Summit selles them,its all personal preferance
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 266
Likes: 0
From: Ringwood, NJ
Car: 1988 trans am
Engine: 5.7 gm H.O. crate engine
Transmission: 700r4
ok, well, i took off the carb, took off the fuel bowls and blew everything i could with compressed air. put it back together and it worked...that is till the radiator blew at 220 degrees. at least this time i had a ride home. just picked up a new radiator for 150 and im gonna put it in tomorrow. thanks everyone for your help.
im ideling at 1000 right now, do i mess with the idle mixture screws (factory 1.5 turns) or the throttle plates?
im ideling at 1000 right now, do i mess with the idle mixture screws (factory 1.5 turns) or the throttle plates?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by cr125r
ok, well, i took off the carb, took off the fuel bowls and blew everything i could with compressed air. put it back together and it worked...that is till the radiator blew at 220 degrees. at least this time i had a ride home. just picked up a new radiator for 150 and im gonna put it in tomorrow. thanks everyone for your help.
im ideling at 1000 right now, do i mess with the idle mixture screws (factory 1.5 turns) or the throttle plates?
ok, well, i took off the carb, took off the fuel bowls and blew everything i could with compressed air. put it back together and it worked...that is till the radiator blew at 220 degrees. at least this time i had a ride home. just picked up a new radiator for 150 and im gonna put it in tomorrow. thanks everyone for your help.
im ideling at 1000 right now, do i mess with the idle mixture screws (factory 1.5 turns) or the throttle plates?
Work each idle mix screw to get the best lean idle.
(there are either 2 or 4 diel mix screws) repeat all till you get the best lean idle.
leaner is clockwise, richer is counterclockwise.
Turn each screw in till the motor slows then turn it out till the motor just recovers. Go the the next/ other screw and repeat.
Work slowly, let the motor react the the fuel change.
then adjust the idle rpm withe the idle speed screw.
the motor will want more fuel when cold than when hot.
Set it up hot. hook up the choke for cold weather operation and starting.
then repeat the idle mixture screw setting.
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