1. Should I use loctite on the rod bolts, or just lube? Same question for the main bolts.

2. Should I use sealer on the oil pump surfaces...and what kind?

3. What is the difference between ultra copper and ultra black sealant? Always wondered about that.

4. What, if anything, do I lube the cylinder walls with?

5. I have a new oil pump, but just the old pickup, which is stuck on the old housing pretty good. Can I unbolt the old pump cover, and bolt it to the new pump..pickup and all?



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"American made baby. 100% American iron. The muscle among the masses. My hero. Yep, you can take your ergonomically designed, space age, computer controlled, 4 door, cup holding map lighted split double wishbone split fold down retractable cargo covered moon roof piece of transportation and keep it. For I have felt the thunder. And I know the difference!"
JSP Motorsports
ICON Motorsports

 

moly lube on the rod and main bolts. i use ultracopper on the oil pump surface, not much. 30w oil on the cylinder walls. ultracopper is a better sealer, but i don't know why and i don't know what it's made for. i use to use it instead of a head gasket on the kart engines.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

1. You should use moly lube but I used 262 loctite on the rod bolts. Main bolts are moly lube or engine oil.

2. No. It should be a machined surface that needs no sealer.

3. No idea.

4. A clean lint free rag soaked in engine oil. Wipe down the walls before installing the pistons which have been dipped in oil also.

5. If you can't get the old pickup off then buy a new pickup. Install it as required and tack weld it onto the new pump removing the pressure check valve first.

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Stephen's racing page

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley

[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited December 10, 2000).]

 

I'm with Stephen 87 on this one.

I use engine oil on all rod and main threads.

The difference between ultra copper and black is usually the copper has a higher temp rating.

Do not use the old pick up and cover assembly.

These are way too cheap to purchase. Definatly tack weld the pick up after trial fitting the clearance to the pan.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

[This message has been edited by Engineboy (edited December 10, 2000).]

 

The pickup should be about 3/8" from the bottom of the pan.

 

You need to purchase a copy of "How to Rebuild Your Small Block Chevy" by David Vizard. It doesn't really have any high tech info in it, but it's a great book to have on hand for remembering the basics of putting an engine together. I used that book when I rebuilt my first engine, and I still thumb through it to refresh my memory whenever I'm putting another one together. I think you can order it from Summit's catalog. Mine is so greasy and worn out, I think it's about time for me to get another copy as well! )



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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."