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Car is still bucking and shuddering when under load. I need help!

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Old Dec 10, 2000 | 11:48 PM
  #1  
nelliesIroc's Avatar
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From: bloomington, MN, USA
Car is still bucking and shuddering when under load. I need help!

My 305 tpi is bucking under load and won't accelerate past 2,000rpm even if I floor it it just shakes and makes a thudding sound. About a week ago I was driving and it just died and turns out it's the rotor so I replace it and ever since it has run horrible It still had the bucking before it died but it wasn't as bad. So far I've replaced the plug wires, cap, rotor and the plugs and coil are about 4 months old. After I replaced the wires today it ran perfectly for about 2 miles then it started bucking again. If I down shift it by hand when it starts to buck sometimes it will stop when the rpms pick up but other times it just won't let the rpms go up. One thing I have noticed is that upon start up you can really smell gas and also I noticed that my coil was makking a clicking sound that increased with rpm so i'n gonna replace that tomorrow. I'm running out of ideas of what this could be so I can use any suggestions any of you may have.
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Old Dec 10, 2000 | 11:52 PM
  #2  
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From: columbia, sc
i think i replied to this... did you check your mounts? do this.. open the hood,(be on the street) have someone stand outside the car looking at the engine, you, sitting inside, punch the gas really hard, but let off so you dont roll more than 10 feet. if the person outside see's the engine move any considerable amount(a few inches resulting from torque) then you have a loose mount... either engine or transmission.
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Old Dec 11, 2000 | 12:12 AM
  #3  
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
you said you replaced the cap, rotor and wires and the coil is rel. new but what about the ignition module?
Im assuming that since its a tpi that the dist. is controlled by a module.
if you havent already, remove this and replace or test it.
Also I just read over some of your prev. posts and noticed that you mentioned switching to a carb. if you did this could be your problem b/c the timing is not advancing properly with the carb.
if not then I need to know one thing--
when your car starts bucking or stalls, what does the tach do...
if it drops to zero very quickly during these hesitations or just drops to zero and then stalls then your ignition is grounding out somewhere and it most likely is the coil or pickup coil or module.
BTW i dont know why an engine mount would cause the problems you describe but there is a much easier way to tell if you have a lose one. If you have an AT just have someone watch the motor while you hold the brake and give it gas in drive. not enough to move the car but so that the motor is fighting to move the car. if you have a loose mount the motor will move significantly and you will feel it twist the car when you give it gas.

this stuff is all IMHO so if you want garanteed answers talk to GMTech or vader or have it checked.
good luck!

[This message has been edited by 88305tpiT/A (edited December 10, 2000).]
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Old Dec 11, 2000 | 12:18 AM
  #4  
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Nell,

Any error codes?

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Vader
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Old Dec 11, 2000 | 01:20 AM
  #5  
nelliesIroc's Avatar
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From: bloomington, MN, USA
It's still a tpi induction. I don't think its a mount of any type either but I suppose I could check. When it bucks it doesn't stall the rpms drop maybe 200 rpm for a sec and bounce back and forth. It hasn't thrown any codes either. I was thinking about the module as well, how should I go about testing that?
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Old Dec 11, 2000 | 10:49 AM
  #6  
88305tpiT/A's Avatar
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From: Ft Worth, TX USA
Car: 2016 Ram 1500
Engine: 3.0L Diesel
Transmission: 8sp
well to get the module out you just remove the cap and unscrew the screws holding the module down. then disconnect wires from pickup and coil and take to autozone or whatever parts chain is near you and then have them test it. also if its bad make sure you buy the echelin ac delco replacement or accel aftmk. because some of the cheapo ones suck.
now if you get one and it dies soon after you put it in with the same problems then there is a ground that is killing it. then you need to find this.
Good luck
james
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Old Dec 12, 2000 | 12:10 AM
  #7  
nelliesIroc's Avatar
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From: bloomington, MN, USA
well I replaced the coil and just on a hunch I shut the lights off in the garage and there was an arc between a plug wire and a vaccum hose so I moved them and it idled better but I also noticed that there was a small arc in the coil it's an external MSD coil and it there was an arc between the red caxing and the metal bar that surrounds it. It shouldn't be doing that should it? I don't think it should. But after I made the swap it ran smoother but it still bucked when going up a hill and when the rpms would drop after it shifting into third or OD when giving it partial throttle. I'll have to get a new module when I return the coil just to see if that does it. If thats not it any other suggestions of what it may be?
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