choke comes on and wont go off
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 169
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From: Atlanta ,GA
Car: 84 Z28 "Holly" (SOLD)
Engine: Carbed 305
Transmission: TH350
choke comes on and wont go off
three weeks ago I took my car to get the emissions tested ( it passed:hail: ). Two days after testing my choke light came on, when I stepped on the gas it would flicker or go off but come on again when i let off the gas. Well at the same time my alternator died so i threw the new ione on and the choke light went off. However monday the choke light came back on. It stays on when i press the gas now. It is also making a "hissing" sound that goers away if you press the brake or when I use the turn signal it stops hissing every time the arrow lights up. For almost a year I have not had any problems and the choke was set properly and the car ran great. Right now I am only using two barrels on a four barrel carb. It is great for gas mileage but I have no power at all. What could have caused this???? Also It is idling way to fast and running rich due to this. I have checked and rechecked all the wires, plugs and vaccuum lines and everything is in its place. Please help..
Thanks Drew
Thanks Drew
Drew- check the choke element and the choke heater wire first. There's a single wire connector that clips on the side of the choke element- black round thing on the side of the carb. Make sure it's got a good connection- it could very easily just have popped off.
After that, make sure you have a full 12V+ at that wire anytime the engine is running/key on. If not, figure out why and fix it. There is a choke heater relay under the dash near the fuse block that sometimes goes bad.
OK, now you got 12V going to the choke element. What if the light's still on? Well, in that case you probably DO have a bad choke element. Drill out the 3 rivets and remove the old choke element from the side of the carb. Go spend $40 at the parts store for a replacement and install it using the supplied self-tapping screws. When you put it in be aware that it may not point (or "clock") in exactly the same direction as your original choke when properly adjusted. Replacments rarely line up just like a stock unit.
After that, make sure you have a full 12V+ at that wire anytime the engine is running/key on. If not, figure out why and fix it. There is a choke heater relay under the dash near the fuse block that sometimes goes bad.
OK, now you got 12V going to the choke element. What if the light's still on? Well, in that case you probably DO have a bad choke element. Drill out the 3 rivets and remove the old choke element from the side of the carb. Go spend $40 at the parts store for a replacement and install it using the supplied self-tapping screws. When you put it in be aware that it may not point (or "clock") in exactly the same direction as your original choke when properly adjusted. Replacments rarely line up just like a stock unit.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta ,GA
Car: 84 Z28 "Holly" (SOLD)
Engine: Carbed 305
Transmission: TH350
Damon, I replaced the choke element and my car is running ettter but still not up to par, and of course the choke light still comes on. Last night I sed ther test light to check the choke heater wire an I am not getting a full 12v. Could you tell me exactly were the choke heater relay is, is it in the fuse block or behind it.
Thanks Drew
Thanks Drew
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MikkoV
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