Well I did my heater Core and wow it sucked, it took a total of about two hours and again it sucked, maybe its just because its new but it dosent seem like it heats as good as the original one did. All my colloing components are new so Im left shaking my head, but at least there no more coolant on my rug and windows, any ideas???
Thanks Guys

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(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)

--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.

 

Perhaos when you put it back together and you didn't get one of the boxes seated right, so air could be leaking out under the dash. Other than that, i don't see a lot of other things that could have happened.
...ed

 

I considered that possibility, but the duct work is not leaking air, it actually has better pressure from the vents then it ever did, its just the temperature seems to be not as hot as it was before---go figure

 

TF,

After draining the system, is is very common to get entrapped air. It is possible that the coolant level is not quite full, allowing some air pockets in the core instead of solid coolant.

Also, water contains air molecules. Until the water is heated and allowed to deaerate, air bubbles will be liberated from the water for several days, causing a lower coolant level. After refilling the system with a fresh mixture, it is important to check and adjust the level for a few days afterward.

It's also possible that the thermostat is allowing coolant to pass before it is thoroughly heated. If your 'stat has bleed holes, it will take longer to build coolant temperature. The thermostat could be sticking open a bit, too.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
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Remember this? This is probably your problem. One of two things probably happened. You either didn't use new foam around the heater core where it seals to the shroud (pictured bolted to the core) or you may have cracked/bowed out on the shroud. Either way, air is probably bypassing around the heater core.

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WOW!!! You guys are awesome---its been a few days and I think Vader hit it on the head---its getting hotter, and almost where it use to be with the old core---I did check for cracks in the shroud and there are none---I did notice that there is a slight gap where the heater hose hooks up to the core---The angle on that nipple was a little crazy and as Vader mentioned earlier that was most of the agg, its just a slight gap in the angle--(make sense??) can I use like a silicone sealent around that hole in the firewall???
Guys, many thanks its nice to know that there are some cool people with our cars :-)

------------------
(Kill the headlights, and put it in neutral)

--George
92 RS 25th Aniv.
350 Goodwrench (NEW LO5)
700R4 Raptor: high performance intermediate billet servo, high performance overdrive billet servo,Mega Valve,13 vane high performance pump,1800 heavy-duty stall converter and a 29 element heavy-duty forward input sprag.