Using the stock LO3 intank pump to fuel a decent carb'ed 360 through a Malory 4309 return style regulator. I set the the fuel pressure to 7lbs.

Car has failed twice now, after 10 min trips, (no gas visibile through the clear inline filter to carb). Each time, if I let it "cool down" 30-60 mins, the intank pump will once again start up and allow me to get home (7 mins or so).

I didn't have my DVM on me at the time of the failures so I can't tell yet if it's the relay or the pump. I fear the worse (pump). Speed shop that sold me the Malory 4309 said it will kill the intank pumps, though I still fail to see why as it provides return gas to the pump.

Anyone know if this heat type failure is typical of the pump or the relay? And if it's the pump, it obviously isn't mechanically frozen, so an inline external might be able to "pull" gas from the tank?

I hear the "cut hole above pump" method has it's pros and cons. If the tank was filled with water, and the hole was cut carefully, it does seem to be an easier way. This is a 92, is there "anti-siphon" technology in this tank?

 

Problem Solved!

The steering column I got from the junkyard had a bad connector/switch. The fuel pump relay was intermitantly getting 12V (orange wire), so I fused it to battery with 20amp fuse.

Torque is good & fun... third gens rule.

 

theres a fuel pup relay on the colomn??

 

I'm assuming there's some type of switched 12v from the column to the fuel pump relay. I had already bypassed the computer's 12v signal to the relay (no ECM). But when the car failed (it was intermitent failure, when hot, the pump would shut down) and I got no 12v at the relay, I wired it to a 20A fused 12v ignition source and all was good again. Best I can tell, the wiring harness enters the car and some of it goes to the steering column (which was recently swapped out from a junkyard car). Been fine ever since I got the pump relay off the harness.