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What is the difference between Cast Iron and Aluminum heads?

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Old Dec 27, 2000 | 07:46 PM
  #1  
Monkie's Avatar
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What is the difference between Cast Iron and Aluminum heads?

What gains and not so much gains do cast iron and aluminum aftermarket heads do? Which one is better for a ATI procharged TPI?

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Old Dec 27, 2000 | 07:52 PM
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Aluminum is 100% the way to go. It can handle a higher compression, which is good for the blower and normally after companies have their better flowing heads cast in aluminum. It's also easier to port aluminum than iron. Oh yea, they also weigh about 50lbs less.

iron is cheaper though.

[This message has been edited by crazeinc (edited December 27, 2000).]
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Old Dec 27, 2000 | 08:54 PM
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Might as well let him know the bad: Aluminum heads are much more likely to warp if you overheat, so you better keep your cooling system in good shape. That and the cost are the only bad points though, if you can afford 'em, get 'em!
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Old Dec 27, 2000 | 08:55 PM
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Aluminum is easier to cross-thread a spark plug. I was "punished" for not being careful with aluminum many years ago on a motorcylce I owned. Torquing is VERY important with aluminum. Very fine line between too little, just right and OOOPS!.
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Old Dec 27, 2000 | 10:12 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
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Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Biggest advantage for aluminum is the weight saving. The other reason aluminum heads are used is that they can disipate heat better. A cooler running head can handle higher compression ratios without detonation.
However like the points that everyone else has said already, aluminum has it's drawbacks. Try finding an aluminum headed import engine that doesn't have a warped head after years of use. 30 year old cast iron heads are still being used with no problems if the casting wasn't thin and cracked since then.

Aluminum parts although they are not considered exotic any more are still not designed for high life. I'd rather have a complete cast iron engine that will last 200,000+ miles of daily driving with no problems than an aluminum engine. Aluminum has it's place but don't expect it to survive like cast iron will.

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87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
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Old Dec 27, 2000 | 11:00 PM
  #6  
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From: Valley, AL
I'm glad I'm not alone, Stephen.I just bought Dart Iron Eagle 230cc's for my new 383. I friend of mine just freshened up the engine in his 76 Nova, It has Edelbrock RPM heads, and it had never been overheated. We decide to run an indicator across them before we sent them for a valve job,just be sure, and they were warped pretty badly. The machine shop had to cut them .013" to get a consistant flat surface. If this happens a few more times, he'll have to cut the intake to get a seal. There are some definite advantages to aluminum, but the heads on my car now are '74 smog heads--ported w/ good valves and springs, and my car runs 12.50's. I ported the Darts, and sent to them to be flowbenched and angle-milled. They flowed 298@.600"intake, and 208@.600"exhaust at 25"H20.These are some killer flow #'s that really impressed me. I chose these heads for cost, durability, and performance. I have seen guys race double humps for decades and run well, so I bought in hopes in that I wouldn't have to buy a new set of heads for a while.

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82 Z28 350, Ported #882 Heads, Performer RPM cam and intake, hedman headers,650 Demon carb,
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