355 or 383?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NC
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: GM T56
355 or 383?
Before I get started, keep in mind this will be a daily driver and going on a 500 mile trip 2 times a year (every year until I can afford a beater). Should I build a 383? Now, the tech part:
1. 6.0"/5.7" rods? I've read 6" for high RPM, but what for durability/streetability?
2. How severe will the MPG drop be?
3. What driveability differences will there be when compared to a 350?
4. Any other helpful insight? Basically just will the engine run all the time? For thousands of trouble-free miles? And I'm real worried about the 500 mile trips (gotta go see Mom in PA) I go on every Christmas/Summer. What do you guys think?
1. 6.0"/5.7" rods? I've read 6" for high RPM, but what for durability/streetability?
2. How severe will the MPG drop be?
3. What driveability differences will there be when compared to a 350?
4. Any other helpful insight? Basically just will the engine run all the time? For thousands of trouble-free miles? And I'm real worried about the 500 mile trips (gotta go see Mom in PA) I go on every Christmas/Summer. What do you guys think?
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Either will have as good durability as the other.
For a steeet car a 5.7" rod is really all you need.
Spend your money on good cylinder heads, first.
There is a lot more power in that than a slightly longer rod length.
Power is in the cylinder heads.
A 350 with good heads for X amount of $$$ will make much more power and torque than a 383 with stock or inferior heads for the same money.
Than if after that the budget allows, go for the 383 stroker it will make more power and torque than a 350
with the same induction system and heads on it.
For a steeet car a 5.7" rod is really all you need.
Spend your money on good cylinder heads, first.
There is a lot more power in that than a slightly longer rod length.
Power is in the cylinder heads.
A 350 with good heads for X amount of $$$ will make much more power and torque than a 383 with stock or inferior heads for the same money.
Than if after that the budget allows, go for the 383 stroker it will make more power and torque than a 350
with the same induction system and heads on it.
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Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 181
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From: NC
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: GM T56
Cool, thanks. The durability factor is the main reason I was undecided.
Running a ported TPI setup, 24lb injectors and a good tune, what kind of MPG can I expect if I drive it conservatively?
Running a ported TPI setup, 24lb injectors and a good tune, what kind of MPG can I expect if I drive it conservatively?
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by Rippin92RS
Cool, thanks. The durability factor is the main reason I was undecided.
Running a ported TPI setup, 24lb injectors and a good tune, what kind of MPG can I expect if I drive it conservatively?
Cool, thanks. The durability factor is the main reason I was undecided.
Running a ported TPI setup, 24lb injectors and a good tune, what kind of MPG can I expect if I drive it conservatively?
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NC
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: GM T56
Originally posted by F-BIRD'88
Conservative MPG, at best.
Conservative MPG, at best.
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From: The State of Hockey
Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
16 average shouldn't be a problem with a 383 if tuned properly. If you drive it nice you could get even better than that... I was getting an average (as in overall, city, highway, WOT, etc.) of 15-16 with my 355 towards the end and lets just say it wasn't exactly idling down the road
.....ever
....... Probably could have logged an easy 18-19 average with some softer pedal action
. That is with Highway Mode operational in the PROM however. With HM you can get much better than 20 highway....
.....ever
....... Probably could have logged an easy 18-19 average with some softer pedal action
. That is with Highway Mode operational in the PROM however. With HM you can get much better than 20 highway.... Supreme Member
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
If you're worried about it making long trips, I'd get a good solid radiator. Half the time that's the main problem-overheating.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: NC
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: GM T56
Cool, now the I know mileage/durability won't be a big issue, I've made up my mind
Now...Cast or Forged? Initially I was going to go forged but to speed up the project a little bit, maybe cast? I won't be spraying it and won't be running a blower/turbo. I'm only looking for 350-400 rwhp. Think cast will last a good 20,000+ miles?
Now...Cast or Forged? Initially I was going to go forged but to speed up the project a little bit, maybe cast? I won't be spraying it and won't be running a blower/turbo. I'm only looking for 350-400 rwhp. Think cast will last a good 20,000+ miles? Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by Rippin92RS
Cool, now the I know mileage/durability won't be a big issue, I've made up my mind
Now...Cast or Forged? Initially I was going to go forged but to speed up the project a little bit, maybe cast? I won't be spraying it and won't be running a blower/turbo. I'm only looking for 350-400 rwhp. Think cast will last a good 20,000+ miles?
Cool, now the I know mileage/durability won't be a big issue, I've made up my mind
Now...Cast or Forged? Initially I was going to go forged but to speed up the project a little bit, maybe cast? I won't be spraying it and won't be running a blower/turbo. I'm only looking for 350-400 rwhp. Think cast will last a good 20,000+ miles? Only foolish engine abuse will cause you a disappointing
early failure.
No NOS over 150/175 HP and always use good high octane gas. They are strong and durable but not bulletproof.
Get some good Hypereutectic alloy cast pistons like
Federal Moguls or UEM KB signuture series.
Lots of "Dcup" piston chioces there.
Pay close attention to the recommended ring clearances.
Bigger is better.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; Dec 2, 2003 at 10:33 PM.
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From: Palm Bay, Florida, USA
Car: 95 E-150 & 07 Kawasaki ZX-6R
Engine: A slow one & a fast one
Transmission: A bad one & a good one
Axle/Gears: A weak one & a chained one
If you're not using forced induction or nitrous, then cast will be more than good enough.....
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