i'm gonna remove the valve covers to put some sealant, what do i have to watch out for? should i expect a mess when i remove them? tnx

 

No. Do you have centerbolts valve covers or perimeter style (old style)? The newer style gaskets are made of a neopryne (sp) type rubber and if the cover is torqued properly they seal very well without globs of RTV. Pull the covers, get good quality gaskets, clean everything up, tighten to specs, and everything should be fine.

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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

No leaks here.

On all SBC valve covers (perimeter or centerbolt) I use no sealer. Put them on dry.

When you introduce sealers they usually slip when you tighten them down.

As stated above, buy good quality gaskets and don't tighten them down too much and you won't have a problem.

If you have the older style, you can get perimeter gaskets with a metal shim in them to keep the perfect shape. I think Felpro makes them.


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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

 

Locry,

Uhh, no. No leaks that I'm aware of.



The later style orange siliconized rubber gaskets are perfect sealers WITHOUT any adhesive or sealants.

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Later,
Vader
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"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

I am about to put on some chrome valve covers on my car. Some of my friends recommended using 220 grit sandpaper and roughing up the surface where it will touch the gasket. Anyone done this? Also, I think Rob mentioned earlier in this post about torgueing the covers. How tight is right?

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Mike Kenny
Current: 1991 RS 305 TBI
Past: 1990 RS 305 TBI (A woman forgot what red lights are for)
Current: mostly stock - newer 305 w/ 12,000 on it
Eclipse speakers all around w/ 10" tube powered by a Alpine V12 in back
K&N filter w/XStream flow lid - It is sweet!!
Future: 2" Cowl hood

 

Like most things on an engine there is a torque spec, but in the case of valve covers, the specs are for stock type gaskets.

These will work fine, but a safer bet is to use the newer style gaskets that have been recommended by others. Most of these have built in torque limiters that prevent you from over-torqueing the bolts and thus distorting the gasket causing it to leak.

The limiters are little metal "O" rings at the bolt holes.

Another good benefit of the newer style gaskets is that they're reuseable. I've had my covers off umpteen times and reused the gaskets without a hint of a leak.

Just be sure to stay away from the newer - supposedly better cork material gaskets. I bought a set and they only lasted through one removal; they cost almost $20 each too!

Stick with the rubber type which have a metal band sandwiched in the middle.

Hope this helps.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

 

thanks people... they're center bolt btw... jeez vader... how the hell do you keep the engine that clean?! do you stop every 10 miles to clean up? hehehe i guess i'm just jealous...

does oil pool in the cylinder heads such that removing the vc would make a mess?

 

No. Oil shouldn't pool there.

It can if the oil drainback holes in the head are plugged (one at each end), If this is the caes you need to clean them out.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

 

I put the chrome valve covers on mine, but didn't sand it. Just expect it to smoke lightly for the first minute after startup to burn off the gasket sealant, other than that worry free! Of course putting oil in when you have half the valve cover set installed is a different story

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--Steve S-- 84 Trans Am 305 (cough)LG4(cough), 5 speed, completely stock emissions restricted slow 150 hp(chilton rating) 240 torquer that needs RELEASE!!!!

P.S. Daily Driver

 

Personally I hate chrome things in general, because they are far more leak-prone, so I try to avoid them whenever possible. However, sanding the chrome off the mating surfaces helps a whole lot. That allows the sealer to have something to stick to, so that the gasket doesn't just squeeze out.

I refuse to use cork VC gaskets. On small block Chevy motors the center of the head, right above the 2 exhaust ports next to each other, gets extremely hot; it causes cork to turn to ash quickly, and then of course a leak is inevitable. I use sealer to hold the gasket to the cover; usually gorilla snot. I put it on the cover and the gasket, let it sit for a few minutes, then lay the gasket exactly into place, then wait a few more minutes and put them on. I use either nothing, or grease, on the other side where the gasket meets the head. No leaks.

The metal reinforced gaskets are from Moroso, they are excellent if a bit spendy.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."