HELP NEEDED: Car stumbling when warm
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From: White Hall, Ar
Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
***NOW FIXED!!!*** Car stumbling when warm
This just started today. I was driving in town and noticed an intermittant stumble, especially when loading the engine. The problem progressively became worse over the next mile or so, until I could barely keep the engine running. I pulled into a parking lot and called the wife. Once she arrived, I headed to the nearest parts store and picked up a new cap and rotor. After installing them, I made a couple spirited runs in the parking lot and thought I had the problem licked. However, after about a half mile, the stumbling re-appeared. I was able to coax it to the nearest parts store. I picked up a new coil and plugged it in but no joy. I also unplugged the maf to see if that made a difference. The engine ran sluggish but still exhibited the same telltale miss/stumble. It was getting late, so I called a tow truck. By the time it arrived, the car was running fine again (seemingly), as I drove it onto the bed of the truck. The driver was perplexed.
I keep the car well maintained. It has had new plugs and wires installed within the last six months and I saw no light show under the hood with the engine running at night. The problem seem s to be related to heat and it seems (to me) to be ignition related as the engine compartment smelled of unburned fuel when I stopped at the parts store.
Anyone point me in the right direction? All help is appreciated...
I keep the car well maintained. It has had new plugs and wires installed within the last six months and I saw no light show under the hood with the engine running at night. The problem seem s to be related to heat and it seems (to me) to be ignition related as the engine compartment smelled of unburned fuel when I stopped at the parts store.
Anyone point me in the right direction? All help is appreciated...
Last edited by vexter; Dec 28, 2003 at 03:51 AM.
Vexter,
Don't overlook the ignition amplifier/switching module in the base of the distributor. They can exhibit the same symptoms you describe as they heat up. Many parts stores will test them for you, but unless they are tested under a load for a period of time, they might pass the "go / no-go" test but still fail after heating on your engine. If you can get someone to perform more than a rudimentary test, you mat be able to determine if it is the problem. You've already eliminated many of the other likely suspects, like the coil, or a damp cap/rotor.
Don't overlook the ignition amplifier/switching module in the base of the distributor. They can exhibit the same symptoms you describe as they heat up. Many parts stores will test them for you, but unless they are tested under a load for a period of time, they might pass the "go / no-go" test but still fail after heating on your engine. If you can get someone to perform more than a rudimentary test, you mat be able to determine if it is the problem. You've already eliminated many of the other likely suspects, like the coil, or a damp cap/rotor.
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 748
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From: White Hall, Ar
Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Vader~
I thought I read your goodbye's a few months back...
I count myself lucky getting a response from you. Thank-you.
I think i'll pull the distributor and give it a good inspection. Then I can replace the pick-up coil and the ignition module. I'll report back with my findings.
I thought I read your goodbye's a few months back...
I count myself lucky getting a response from you. Thank-you.
I think i'll pull the distributor and give it a good inspection. Then I can replace the pick-up coil and the ignition module. I'll report back with my findings.
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 748
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From: White Hall, Ar
Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
UPDATE:
Instead of buying a spark module and pickup coil, I decided to buy a remanufactured distributor that includes everything. Picked one up for $100 w/ a lifetime warrantee in the hopes that would do the trick... It did!
Car runs like a champ!
Thanks for the tip, Vader! Perhaps this will help someone else...
Instead of buying a spark module and pickup coil, I decided to buy a remanufactured distributor that includes everything. Picked one up for $100 w/ a lifetime warrantee in the hopes that would do the trick... It did!
Car runs like a champ!

Thanks for the tip, Vader! Perhaps this will help someone else...
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 748
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From: White Hall, Ar
Car: '88 Iroc
Engine: 305
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.45
Originally posted by joshwilson3
Man, you don't go cheap do ya? At the first sign of a problem, you're already off buying 'shot in the dark' parts. Then you just buy a whole piece instead of just replacing the bad part. Oh well, if it keeps that third gen on the road!
Man, you don't go cheap do ya? At the first sign of a problem, you're already off buying 'shot in the dark' parts. Then you just buy a whole piece instead of just replacing the bad part. Oh well, if it keeps that third gen on the road!
From the symptoms, I felt the problem was probably electrical and Vader confirmed as much. How many different electrical components would you guess would cause the same symptoms? Yeah, buying a distrubutor was a bit of a gamble, but hardly a shot in the dark. At my age, sometimes it's easier to simply spend a little extra cash to avoid a potential hassle. I don't know if I'd characterize it as 'throwing money at a problem', but if some do I guess I can live with it. My car is running...
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