Stupid idle!!
Stupid idle!!
I'm still trying to solve my idle after my engine swap. It's terrible. Jumps around from 500-1000 and sometimes dies.
I used to have a 305 tbi. I put in a 350, vortec heads, edelbrcok performer manifold, headers, .471/.490 cam with 115 LSA, flat top pistons, holley 670 TBI, heated O2, new MAP, new TPS and IAC, new distributor, new plugs, good wires, and I'm pretty sure the coil is fine. I also converted from a 700r4 to a six speed. I got a custom chip from Howell EFI.
It's been doing this for six months. I sometimes get a code 44 or 45 for lean and rich O2 sensor, and I get a code 32. The custom chip is supposed to not have EGR though. I called Howell up and they were pretty sure that they got the chip right, but a wrong chip is a possibility. I'm positive it's not the IAC too because it will idle bad even if I have that disconnected to reset the idle. It does ok when I start it up cold, but once I move the car and drive it for a minute or two the idle will be really bad. No vacuum leaks. I also get a surging at some rpm levels. especially in first gear going through a parking lot or something. I jumped the A and B connectors to see if it was running in closed loop and while driving regularly it flashes at a 1 second rate. It will also flash at that rate when the idle is going up and down when the car is stopped. Every once in a while though the idle will go steady to 1000 rpms and the ses light will stop flasing and remain on for as long as the idle will stay steady. After a few seconds or so it will return to the bad idle and the ses light will continue flashing on a one second rate.
For the love of God, this car is pissing me off!!!
Thanks...
------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula
I used to have a 305 tbi. I put in a 350, vortec heads, edelbrcok performer manifold, headers, .471/.490 cam with 115 LSA, flat top pistons, holley 670 TBI, heated O2, new MAP, new TPS and IAC, new distributor, new plugs, good wires, and I'm pretty sure the coil is fine. I also converted from a 700r4 to a six speed. I got a custom chip from Howell EFI.
It's been doing this for six months. I sometimes get a code 44 or 45 for lean and rich O2 sensor, and I get a code 32. The custom chip is supposed to not have EGR though. I called Howell up and they were pretty sure that they got the chip right, but a wrong chip is a possibility. I'm positive it's not the IAC too because it will idle bad even if I have that disconnected to reset the idle. It does ok when I start it up cold, but once I move the car and drive it for a minute or two the idle will be really bad. No vacuum leaks. I also get a surging at some rpm levels. especially in first gear going through a parking lot or something. I jumped the A and B connectors to see if it was running in closed loop and while driving regularly it flashes at a 1 second rate. It will also flash at that rate when the idle is going up and down when the car is stopped. Every once in a while though the idle will go steady to 1000 rpms and the ses light will stop flasing and remain on for as long as the idle will stay steady. After a few seconds or so it will return to the bad idle and the ses light will continue flashing on a one second rate.
For the love of God, this car is pissing me off!!!
Thanks...
------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off

My Formula
Step away from the '88 8063 ecm and get the prom tuning stuff. The stalling and surging is probably caused by an improper fuel map and too low an idle speed. The IAC routines are different for auto/manual cars too. I would get a 7747 ecm and 350/5speed bin to start off.
EDIT: forgot you don't have any EGR hardware.
Email me if you want: wildkat@paonline.com
PS. I feel like a royal fool, wasting all that time on a certain ignition system.
[This message has been edited by Brent (edited January 13, 2001).]
EDIT: forgot you don't have any EGR hardware.
Email me if you want: wildkat@paonline.com
PS. I feel like a royal fool, wasting all that time on a certain ignition system.
[This message has been edited by Brent (edited January 13, 2001).]
LOL Brent!!!! ME TOO!!! I spent two damn weeks on that distributor!!!
How much is it going to cost me to do the ECM swap? Does it use the same plugins at the box? Thanks for the help. I don't know what else to do!
How much is it going to cost me to do the ECM swap? Does it use the same plugins at the box? Thanks for the help. I don't know what else to do!
haha Stuart 
Birmass:
A 7747 is around $40 at a yard. It plugs right in. No pin changes nessesary. You will need a V8 calpak if the ecm didn't come with one. GM part #16060836, about $15.
I've done a little work with the 7747.
If you are interested, I have some free time and would like to help you out. Let me know.

Birmass:
A 7747 is around $40 at a yard. It plugs right in. No pin changes nessesary. You will need a V8 calpak if the ecm didn't come with one. GM part #16060836, about $15.
I've done a little work with the 7747.
If you are interested, I have some free time and would like to help you out. Let me know.
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