how realistic is this, would it be able to run pump gas? Would it be reliable? What would be needed? Would ANYTHING hold up? Would it be best to use a crate engine or to totally build something from the ground up

 

yes it would have to be a built from the ground up engine. a good 350 block, stroker crank, 6" or 6.2 something(i think) rods, forged pistons. good aluminum heads, intake carb/ or some kinda aftermarket fuel injection.they sell complete rotating assemblys in kit form but you still have to have the block machined/or buy a bow tie block.i am building a 383 cub in 350 with lightened internals,stroker crank,6" rods, bolt block, either splayed 2 bolt or bow tie block, forged pistons, bout 9.5:1 compression with maybe a super ram and a ati procharger runnin approx 18 psi boost(race) 12 psi street. this is going in a 97 regular cab s10 and will be a daily driver.you can make an engine with 600 hp on pump gas but can't run alot of compression no more than 10.5 to 1
Dave



------------------
1997 s10,stock internally 4.3,automatic,3.42's on 235/60/15 drag radials.quickest 8th mile 8.48@79 mph 1.80 60 ft.13.39@103 mph on my g tech.
LIFE IS SHORT, SPRAY HARD!

 

What's your budget? Does it have to pass emmissions? Naturally aspirated? How long do you want it to live - one pass like the TFDs, or 500 miles in 2½ hours, or 150,000 miles in 15 years like the one you have now? Will you get it through customs?

I'd be happy to build it for you if you have the right answers. I know how it is done and I'm sure there are others on this board that also know how to build race motors.

Just FYI, NASCAR engines are 358s, they will be getting almost 800HP out of a single 4-barrel, flat-tappet motor this year. Their motors will run at 8000 RPM for an entire afternoon, with little or no loss in horsepower. If you want to learn about real racing, pay more attention to those guys. They are the best.

It can be done without nitrous or SC but to gain that you obviously have to give up something else. I don't think I, or anybody else, can build a 600 HP small block that you're going to bolt into your car and drive to work every morning. I guess you'd call that a crate motor, since I'd ship it to you in a crate. You could also buy such a thing from one of the NASCAR shops, Hendrick or Childress or Petree or Gibbs would be the ones I'd contact for a Chevy motor, Yates or Roush or Penske for a F*rd one. The 9½:1 Busch and truck motors will run on pump gas, but they're only good for about 650 HP.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

All excellent points RB. Also, the powertrain (tranny, rear end, possibly the driveshaft) would all need to be upgraded to handle that power. Suspension?. Also, what about tires? Nothing worst than having 600 HP and you can't even give it more than 1/4 throttle without burning your tires off.

And when you get all that power to the ground and hooked up, you better have done some chassis beefing. Nothing worst than stomping on it and twisting the car like a pretsel.

I hope you have lots of money.

 

Well, it would have to be ponies Naturally aspirated first off second off i've got a fairly large budget to work with as i'm taking out a loan. (From family) With that much power just from the engine i'd be relying on a 12 bolt for sure. As far as gears go i dont think i'd go higher than 3.4x As for suspension eventually a 4 link rear with coilovers this is a project That will take me QUITE a while. I Figure i'll put the engine in then live on borrowed time for everything else, as long as i'm not slamming the pedal down all over the place i figure i'll be good for a while. Also im looking for a fuel injected engine.

 

Engine life is also very important here, it will be a daily driver. If hot rod magazine can come up with a budget 383 putting out 420hp i dont see how much farther off a 500 or even 600 hp streetable machine would be, with the right tools people knowledge and pieces.

 

So is 500 ponies out of a Daily Driver 350TPI w/o supercharger or nitrous not only possible (EVERYTHING is possible) but fairly level-headed? What I mean by that is, With 500 ponies I know I'd need beefier tranny, rear, suspension, and chassis, BUT would it suffice as a daily driver. I drive about 500 miles a week usually, and I want something that will blow everyone away, yet get me back and forth reliably. I've thought 400, 454, and even just beefing up my 6 and chargin or juicin it. But I think I wanna go 350TPI.

------------------
92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
98 or 99 Dodge Stratus (tough one, edged out at 40)


Close Calls
94 Grand Am 3.1 V6
92 Cavalier 3.1 V6
01 Porsche 911 Turbo (Had em till first gear)

Mods-Jet Stage 2 Performance Chip, Accel Cap/Rotor, Accel 8.8 MM Wires, Accell Coil, AC Delco Rapidfire Plugs, Dynomax Catback, K&N

AIM name OVRCLCK350

 

Have you considered a big block? You could build a 500+ CI big block which would offer the power you are looking for with more longevity and better street characteristics for less $$$ than a SBC.

 

A 500 HP, streetable, daily driver is a tall order out of nearly any size engine. You'd stand the best chance of that with the most inches you can jam under the hood.

What's the fastest / most powerful car you've ever driven? Who / what do you want to beat? Do you have a specific clear goal? Some particular ET or class to run in or what? I don't see 600, or even 500, or for that matter even 400 HP as being particularly useful in an otherwise unmodified car. You'll need a transmission and rear end that won't grenade, tires that stick but that are DOT legal, a suspension that won't hop, a frame that won't twist, etc.; there's alot more to a fast street car than just some number of HP. For one thing, you're playing with the life-and-death saftey of all the rest of us on the roads, which is a level of responsibility not to be taken lightly. (Not that everyone who modifies their car is responsible!!) HP is important of course but it's not the only thing.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

Youre best bet would definatly be a bigblock. I've seen bigblocks that can be be bored and stroked up to like 640ci, and 1horse per ci isnt hard at all and would be fairly reliable. If your stuck on a sbc you need to sc it. So when you drive to work you can run with no boost and put alot less stress on the car and your ability.

------------------
Pretty damn smart with cars for 17!
91 Camaro RS, 305 TBI
No mods yet...Hopefully:
Convert to dual-cat with headers and Borla catback exhaust.
Edelbrock MPFI system.
RAM air hood & Z28 wing.
Z28 cam.
ABS system.
Positraction rearend with rear disc brakes.
Rebuilt front and rearend suspension with polygraphite bushings.
Strutbrace.
Rollbar.

 

My goal do i have one? Ofcourse i do doesnt every man? My goal is to run 9.99 here in Calgary Ab that's 7tenths faster at sea level
so 9.29
That's my Goal
after i get the 5-600 projected hp from the block i'm looking at turbo's

 

I know it's fast and i i dont expect much encouragement most important of all i want to get 12 mpg or better.

 

I will try and find the magazine about the "joy and pain" of owning a 10 second street car.

BTW, add a roll cage to your list if you plan to take that to the track. I am not sure of all the manditory equipment that is necessary when you are in the 9s, but you better make sure that you include that in your budget. Each time you go faster, there are more safety requirements necessary for each level.

 

Have I got a deal for you! Contact Howard at Northwest Performance (numbers in the phone book). He has a couple of engines that could probably put you in the 9's if the rest of the car can handle it. One's a 327 and the other is a 406. He's building a 434 to run in the 7's or 8's now. The Brodix SBC heads he's ported flow more than my big block heads.

If you go to the track this year you won't see a lot of SuperGas cars (10.24 altitude corrected) running small blocks. When you need that much HP you go to a big block. Also those cars are not factory cars any more. If they don't have a full tube frame, they at least a back half do to them.

To run in the 9's you also need a competition license. I'm not sure how Race City lets the Secret Street cars run in the 9's but I'm sure a comp license is required. The Secret Street cars that run in the 9's or quicker all use NOS. The blower and turbo cars don't qualify very well against NOS.

It's easier to be happy with less headaches to have a car that runs 10's or 11's.

------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block almost ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley

 

Actually I was thinking. How heavy will your car be? 600 hp might not be enough to push a 3000+ car into the 9's. Jeremy Butler at Davenport ran high 9's with over 800hp

 

Honestly I want a high 10 or low 11 second car to run mainly at the track. Also, I'm tired of just because i have a nice looking Bird, these 5.0's an GT's wanna come race me. I want to be able to just not even worry about if I'd lose.....AND on top of that, what makes it worse, is my friend has a 13 second Civic about to be in the 11's, and according to my belief system, he's not a *****. His car looks totally stock, except the symbols for Civic SI are gone, and his windows are blacked out.
I would go big block (I have 2 454's in the back yard) but I don't know if you can have TPI with them, and I heard you have to do some cutting to make them fit, or at least the exhaust manifolds.
------------------
92 Bird 3.1L Auto
Best $750 I ever spent....

DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!

Kills:
93 Mustang LX (Before Mods)
98 or 99 Dodge Stratus (tough one, edged out at 40)


Close Calls
94 Grand Am 3.1 V6
92 Cavalier 3.1 V6
01 Porsche 911 Turbo (Had em till first gear)

Mods-Jet Stage 2 Performance Chip, Accel Cap/Rotor, Accel 8.8 MM Wires, Accell Coil, AC Delco Rapidfire Plugs, Dynomax Catback, K&N

AIM name OVRCLCK350

[This message has been edited by Ovrclck350 (edited January 11, 2001).]

 

Hey, how's it going Well... I was hoping that i could build a block to 600hp and prep it for turbos, and when i get the money drop some sweet assed turbos into that baby... Chassis reinforcing and such are expected, i'm also a t tops boy.... God i love drag racing

 

If you're spending all that money...why not buy a TTA or GN T-type engine and rebuild it for your car? You could probably buy an entire GN and maybe a TTA (would have to be one sweet deal though) for what you'll spend for a 600hp small block and then custom turbos. You'll get WAY better mileage, and already start with a turbo to tinker with. You can get 11's from a stock TTA for less than a grand. Just my opinion...

------------------
89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

Does anyone second this notion?

 

Speed costs money. We know how fast you want to go. How much are you willing to spend? Pick up a copy of Quick Times and price out some engines. HP isn't cheap.

I haven't totaled up all the reciepts yet for my big block buildup but it's going to be around $7000 and I should only be running low 11's this year. That's adding up every nut, bolt, gasket, paint.

[This message has been edited by Stephen 87 IROC (edited January 12, 2001).]

 

TTAs were not offer for sale in Canada.

 

What does that have to do with anything? They were only made in 89 so he's be buying a used one regardless. Seriously though, they're VERY expensive and rare - it seems to me that it would be much less costly to snag a GN T-type engine w/ 200r4 tranny and then plan on a rebuild/swap.

------------------
89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

89 is NOT the only year they made em, there were 2nd gen TTAs



------------------
Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 small block, Hooker 1 3/4 LTs, Random Tech Cat, Hooker aero chamber cat back on the way!!
TH700-R4 with Trans-Go shift kit (corvette servo here...but not installed yet)
MacEwen Motorsports White Gauge Overlays
14" K&N X-Stream Open Element
GTS Headlight and Taillight covers
5% Limo Tint all around
Classic White Chevy Bowtie sticker on rear window
http://www.geocities.com/esvalenz

Man if my camaro were a rice-rocket all those mods would give me what...easily 50-60 hp!!!

"Just because I've done it, doesn't mean I knew what I was doing!" - Me

 

I ROCK, cars built and sold in the US have different equipment than cars sold in Canada. This is due to mandatory regulations by our fabulous federal government. That is why many of our third gens have an RPO code Z49 - Manditory Canadian Base Equipment Modifications.

The requirements are different for every year, but before you can import a car from the US. The car MUST have those modifications made before Canada Customs Revenue Agency will allow the car to be brought into Canda.

This will include things like the instrument panel being in metric (U19) , a block heater (KO5)), and possibly child restraint (AN4) among other things. Daytime running lights are mandatory on either 1990 or 1991, so that probably is not an issue. Lastly, proof of clean title can be a real nightmare.

I say this because I had a friend that wanted to bring up a car from the US, and he had nothing but hassles and he ended up spending a lot of money to make it compliant with Canadian regulations. All this work HAD to be done before he could even get the car into the country. And this car was from the late 70s. The regulations get tougher for each year.

 

if your serious about engines, go over to www.beckracingengines.com ... im looking at a blown 383 right now that makes 700hp and 670 torque on 92 gas and a mild 8psi of boost... why are you set on a normally aspirated engine? its my opinion, and most likely not that strong of one.. but asking for a street motor, that makes 600hp, 12mpg, runs on pump gas.. and is a small block is asking a bit much.. why not go for a blown small block, or a nat. aspirated big block? i've never owned anything over a 383, well, the only engines i have owned(being almost 19 years old) is a 305 in a '83 camaro, and a 383, which i have now, in my 74 camaro.. i just dont see all of what you ask for happening, cheaply at least. but, like i said, im not , by far, the most experienced one here. give beck a call.. if you want to buy an engine, they are quite serious about how they build their engines, and the horse power they produce

 

I'm looking to bust into the 9's with my 89 Gta Trans Am. L98 T-topped. And personally i dont see myself running 9's with anything less than 600 hp naturally aspirated, sure i could blow that baby with some insane boost.... But my understanding is that it decreases reliability aswell. That's why i opted for Turbos... I expect this engine to cost me a ****load of money... But you get what you pay for (most of the time) Right?

Right now i'm looking at an 87 Regal T-Type from the jan 2001 issue of hot rod article titled t is for "told you so" This regal is running 10.24's which in itself makes me believe my 9 second goal is FULLY attainable
the 21psi of boust coupled with the 3.8l are a formidable opponent. What about a 305 a 350 or even a 383 with a turbo like this? Is it just TOO much to ask?

And yet again in the same mag there is the 7 second '66 383 mopar with 10 psi of boost making 915 at the fly.
Yes yes i know there is also a plethora of suspension and chassis modifications but let us put that aside.

Let us also forget about the 600hp for now
My goal is to GET INTO THE 9's And i have no experience with engines. I am seeking your advise and expertise. I would rather run turbos as oppose to a blower or nitrous. And i would love to get some good mpg as i'll be using it as a daily. (untill winter rolls round so 7 months of the year)

As always any progress i make on this vehichle will be posted on the board aswell as a page i am starting up these are the beggining days of Project "Paladin"

 

Mtx, Thankyou. I am starting to get a better idea of what it's going to take, though i am opting for shops in my area Stephen has provided me with some. This is due to the fact that i will definately be making more than a few visits

 

Oh sorry I didn't know about all that Canadian regulation stuff. Well, if you just get the engine/trans, I'm sure you could work around that stuff. Why are turbos ok but blowers are not? Talk to Willie (he's a moderator on here) about his supercharged Iroc - he's installed a switch so he only runs the s/c when he wants to. Both a sc and a turbo force air into the engine (boost) and turbos will decrease reliability every bit as much as an sc I would think.

------------------
89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

I talked to Howard today. He agrees that it will take more than 600 hp to get you in the 9's. His 406 is over 600 hp and is in a 2500 pound Chevy II and it only runs high 9's. If your car is still over 3000 pounds and probably closer to 3300-3500 then you'll really need more than 600 hp. You also won't get that in a small block running pump gas.

He's got the start of a web page up finally but it's still under construction.
http://members.home.net/nwperformance/nwfront_nn4.html

 

I agree with I ROCK, a power assist is a power assist. Frankly, I think it a great idea to use a power adder, especially on a street car. You can make it a little more docile for putting around on the streets, yet get high HP when you nail it.

I also like the idea of a SC switch, especially on a street car. If it is raining (or whatever), you can keep the SC from engaging to avoid embarrassing (or scary) moments.

I don't know why everyone is so hung up on a turbo charger versus a supercharger (other than not too many people have one on a third gen). Yes, a turbo doesn't create "parasitic loss", but then again, it does clutter up the exhaust...that is parasitic too IMO. Boost is boost, the engine doesn't know the difference.

 

pump gas...maybe??!! depends on how you're getting 600hp. no power adders?? not a chance!!, and in a thirdgen car nothing(stock) will hold up(maybe suspension). need sub-frame connectors! good luck with t-tops. they've been known to pop off with high horsepower!

------------------
1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 heads,350 horse cam,bored.40 over, Edlebrock torker2 intake.

Future mods 400 performer rpm intake (polished) and 600 edlebrock carb, comp roller cam, and way better heads. orpossibly a 383 stroker?

 

Turbos are the way to go....its the wave of the future. whos at the top of Outlaw street....bob reiger....twin turbo 57 chevy (formerly s10) running 6.7s all day. Nobodys doint that with turbined superchargers....blowers maybe....this guy sounds like me....except i was willing to go for 500 hp and 10s. this guy is asking a lot. i dont think a 350 can do it....but a 400 stroked out could. thats what im goin for. gonna stroke a 4 and mod everything....then when im done with the engine...and suspension and all....i can start savin for project "turbo". you also have to keep in mind that carbs dont mix well with turbos at all. and a TPI isnt gonna do it either...you would need an aftermarket FI. maybe DFI...($3000) or super ram, mini ram, $$$$$$. good luck though....maybe you an me can race one day....you got the same plan as me. daily driver, 12-15 mpg, t-tops, a.c., i just want 10s then 6s, turboed. 1800 hp. i can do it. you can too.
wow that is long...sorry

------------------
Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 small block, Hooker 1 3/4 LTs, Random Tech Cat, Hooker aero chamber cat back on the way!!
TH700-R4 with Trans-Go shift kit (corvette servo here...but not installed yet)
MacEwen Motorsports White Gauge Overlays
14" K&N X-Stream Open Element
GTS Headlight and Taillight covers
5% Limo Tint all around
Classic White Chevy Bowtie sticker on rear window
http://www.geocities.com/esvalenz

Man if my camaro were a rice-rocket all those mods would give me what...easily 50-60 hp!!!

"Just because I've done it, doesn't mean I knew what I was doing!" - Me

 

Just for the can't do crowd,, I (and others) have built 600+ horse SBCs on pump gas but none of the ones I've built would work very well with a turbo. N/A vs turbo,,, totally different compression ratios, cam, and stroke (rod ratio an issue).

Sounds like you want to go turbo,,, if so,, let it do the work and don't worry about "600" N/A horses.

 

To the best of my knowledge Turbo's actually increase mpg while chargers Decrease mpg. Also with Turbo's i can set up another turbo to run behind the first one right? Further reducing durbo lag. Also i've head of some insane turbo psi's this is why turbo is very appealing to me. Is it also true that you can set the boost of a turbo without busting out tools?

 

As someone posted earlier, if you build a NA engine to run 600hp...the compression ratio will be way to high for a turbo or supercharger, as for which is a better power adder(turbo or sc), the arguement will go on forever....the SC is alot easier to install...and are readily available in kit form...if you go the turbo route...everything has to be custom fabbed and sized properly....
another thing, I ROCK....NO willie does NOT have a disconnect switch for his SC(he might have had a dream about one but that's it)...if you don't want boost keep your foot off of the floor

------------------
MÅN¡ÅÇ ©
88 IROC 5.7L,edelbrock TES,random tech cat,borla exhaust,chip,sfc,accel wires,airfoil,k&n's,ETC..
and NOW supercharged!!!
http://maniac.megamania.com

[This message has been edited by maniacc (edited January 14, 2001).]

 

there's a 950hp grand national in a recent CHP mag, huffing 19psi(i believe) of boost, and its running low 9's i think... it takes a helluva lot of power to get down deep in those times, why would you drive this on the street? if its just to absolutely obliterate every other car on the road.. im sure you could hang with the very best with a mid-11 second car(just saying this because i know of a few rat-powered muscle cars around town that run in the 11's... but those are few and far between)

 

Quote: "I have three more switches mounted flush (and just below) the instrument cluster on the right side. They're labeled: "SC Fan Arming", "SC Fan", and "Oil Cooler". These are for the supercharger and have made all electrical supercharger functions switchable. This allows me to run the car at times without the supercharger." I interpreted this to mean you can switch the s/c off. Maybe that's not what it means... http://members.optushome.com.au/down...lie/inter.html

------------------
89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

What I want to Know, Is why someone So relatively Inexperianced ( not an insult, just the truth ) wants a 9 second car.

Ive driven some slow cars, Ive driven Some Fast cars, Im only 19 and Dont pretend to Know it all. I have a Lg4 and Im prolly a low 15 High 14 second car, and I think its Fun. Would I want to be faster ? of course. 9's ? that is REdiculous for the street.

My neighbor has a 11 second 69 nova On a NA 350 .030 over. That car is So hard to drive anywhere its rediculous. My other buddy has a high 10 67 chevelle ( NA 350, BRodix intake and heads ) And that car is strait Up Un streetable. technically yeah, You can drive it on the street. that is if you dont mind stopping to charge the batterys every 20 miles.


I think You need to Look at Your goals, and Be a little bit realistic. teh differance in Power and $$ between a car that runs a 10.5 and a 9.999 is Incredible, and If your Only intrest is going to be Showing off to Your friends and getting exhibition of speed tickets every time you turn around, You will Find yourself plenty Happy with a low 12's Car.




------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Livin' the Stereotype

 

What was not meant to be an insult is exactly that. What business is it of yours? The bottom line here is that i'm TRYING to learn, yet i am faced with people like you constantly stepping infront of me asking the same question? I never expected it to be easy, I value your constructive criticism and took it into account for a fraction of a second.

"Ive driven some slow cars, Ive driven Some Fast cars, Im only 19 and Dont pretend to Know it all. " Are you trying to implicitly imply that i do? If so i wouldnt even be on this board, thanks for your input.

 

Well I don't know how experienced you are, and I certainly am not that experienced, but you DO have to make some basic tradeoffs. His point is valid though - drive a few cars or at least ride in them if the owners will let you that are capable of some of these times. The first time I rode in a low 13 second car it was pretty scary. You said it's going to be a daily driver 7 months out of the year, and reliability/mpg is a concern? No one is saying it can't be done, or getting on your case, but all the veteran drag guys I've talked to (ok, 3) really wouldn't go lower than an 11 second street car. Sure it's fun, but whereas a 13 or 14 second car would be fun all the time, a 9 second street car would be an incredible burden to drive much of the time, not to mention how careful you'd have to be. I'm not saying you don't know anything or that I do, but just to drive some cars (hell, rent a suit and test drive a new vette) and see how you like those levels of speed. If you already have and only 9's can quench your NFS than I say go for it - it can be done.

------------------
89 Iroc-Z LB9 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax muffler, K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor, synthetic oil, flexlite transmission cooler, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...

 

The local 9 second "street cars" are all trailered to the track.

 

Paladin,

Interesting you should ask this question, since it's exactly what I've been researching for several months. Answer ?

YES - 600 HP can be done, on a 406 SBC with no power adders. It is the outside practical limit on pump gas (93 octane).

After much racetrack discussion and many personal interviews with machine shop owners, I've finally found a shop with an owner I can entrust my 400 SBC motor to - and, lo and behold, it's 4 miles from my house.

He has dynoed six 406 motors between 582 HP and 601 HP. All ran on pump gas with a dose of octane booster. Straight 93 octane will require backing 2-4* advance out, which will cost 12-20 HP.

The following formula is one of several, but it's the one I'll be using later this year to get 580-600 HP from my 406.

BOTTOM END
-3.75" stroke 4340 crank
-6" 4340 rods, ARP 210K rod bolts
-windage trey, crank scraper, hi vol oil pump
-Ross or JE pistons, flat top

HEADS & CAM
-AFR 210cc with 2.08/1.6 valves
-milled to produce 11.5 to 1 compression
-ported,polished,port-matched,cc'd,gasket matched to Felpro 1207 intake gasket
-Comp Cams solid roller cam and valvetrain with 254/260 duration using 1.6 roller rockers to make about .600/.620 lift

INTAKE, EXHAUST, IGNITION
-Holley Strip Dominator or Edelbrock Super Victor single plane intake
-Holley 850 DP with milled airhorn, modified air bleeds, and other nasty old hotrod tricks
-MSD 6AL
_Hooker Super Comp headers with 1-7/8 primary pipes, Dynomax or Flowmaster muffs

CAR
-2950lb. Chevrolet with 700R-4 trans, Vigilante converter with 2,800 RPM stall, 8.5 " slicks for track.
-3.42 or 3.55 rear gear.
-6 point rollcage

This car is being built to run in the 11's somewhere. If I can get it to hook and launch, it should deliver 11.30's at 125 mph.

If it does not.....well, it's being built to withstand a fairly large blast of gas.......


BOR

 

looks like Mr. box of rocks has the formula for your engine. you can ask more detailed questions here, read a lot and learn with out posting. i'm locking this because it has became a bit of a flame war with a few of the posters. if you wish to continue this thread repost it and go from there.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd