I'm going to be installing the oil pump and pan on my new engine when I'm home from school next weekend and I have two quick questions. First of all do I have to install the oil pump drive now or is there a way to drop it in from the top before I install the distributer? Also how do I properly align the pickup for the oil pump? I know it's only like supposed to be a half inch from the bottom of the pan, but I have no idea how to measure this.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.

 

The drive has to go in now. It will not fit through the main cap, especially not if you are using a metal-collared drive rod as you should be. If you don't already have it, it's Melling part # IS-55E, or can be had from Moroso and Mr. G.

The easiest way to get the pickup right is to simply set the pan on the block and measure its height; then put the pickup into the pump and bolt the pump on loosely, and turn it until it's at the right height, then diassemble it completely and braze, tack-weld, or roll-pin the pickup in place. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check the clearance with a piece of modeling clay before you make it permanent.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."


[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited January 19, 2001).]

 

i use a machinist tri square to check the dept of the pan and then use it to set the pick up height. sounds complicated but it's real simple. everyone on here advocates welding or brazing the pick up to the pump cover. i don't. the welds could distort the cover, or break under stress and you wouldn't have any secondary retention for the pick up. i weld a brace from the pick up and bolt it to the pump body. i believe it's a better system with less chance for problems. only draw back is it takes longer. near as i can tell i'm about the only person doing it this way, everyone else welds the pick up to the pump cover.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

I used modeling clay to check mine. Dont forget the gasket will add some depth as well.

 

What's a metal collared drive rod? I was going to reuse the stock one, but maybe that's a mistake? Let me know.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.

 

The stock one has a little plastic collar taht connects the drive rod to the top of the pump. They fail under high stress. I've had one die while driving innocently down the street probably not far above 6000 RPM, resulting in immediate zero oil pressure.

The other ones have a metal sleeve that holds the rod to the top of the pump... much more reliable.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

One more thing that is really critical is the pickup height above the bottom of the oil pan.

It has to be between 1/4" and 3/8". Too little clearance cause votices to form and too much can allow the pump to suck air.

There are different ways to check that the pickup clearance is correct. Any of them are okay, just as long as you DO check it.

I use the clay method, or when my clay has dried out I steal some of my kids' Play Dough.

Install the pickup in the pump only part way. That way it can be adjusted later if need be.

Install the oil pan gasket you will run on the engine, set the pan on and torque several bolts on both sides of the pan. Every other bolt hole is fine.

Now remove the bolts and pan and slice the clay and measure the thickness.

Adjust the pickup location as required to achieve the 1/4"-3/8" clearance. I shoot for 5/16" which is right in the middle.

If you opt to tack weld the pickup to the pump, remove the pressure spring first to prevent the head from effecting its tension.

I pin mine unless I have a super tight fit. If you pin the pickup you'll need to get any metal shavings out of the pump body after you drill the tiny hole.

Pour some engine oil into the pump and rotate the drive by hand to lubricate the gears before you prime the engine.

Also, use one the aftermarket pump to distributor drives, like those from ARP, Moroso or Milodon.

I use to have to go through all kinds of trouble to check the end clearances of the gears/pump cover, but machining tolerances have improved so much that it's hardly needed nowadays when using a name brand pump like Melling, Moroso, etc.

Hope this helps.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9