Maintainance for a 200K engine
Maintainance for a 200K engine
Y'all,
After doing a few searches, I now know better than to to use any of the goop that supposedly restores and old engine to perfect condition.
I still have a few questions though...
What does teflon actually do? I'm not cooking eggs. Some newer products actually boast that they are teflon free and PTFE free. Sounds like marketing BS to me.
Will anything besides thicker oil help slow down slow leaks and internal oil burning? I'm only down less than 1/2 quart every 2,000 miles. The engine runs fine and there really isn't any smoke except for starup. (valve stem seals)
I've been using 10w30, but am thinking of using 20w50 when it warms up. Whether or not 20 weight will kill the oil pump is still somewhat of an enigma. I've never used synthetic because of all the conflicting information about it leaking faster because the molecule is smaller. True or not?
Is an engine flush really a bad idea? Would it really leak more if all the gunk was cleaned out?
I'd actually like to see a tech article about this. A lot of people here have 2000,000+ mile engines. I know it won't last forever, but it's holding together so well that I'm inspired to see just how many more miles I can get.
Thanks Guys!
After doing a few searches, I now know better than to to use any of the goop that supposedly restores and old engine to perfect condition.
I still have a few questions though...
What does teflon actually do? I'm not cooking eggs. Some newer products actually boast that they are teflon free and PTFE free. Sounds like marketing BS to me.
Will anything besides thicker oil help slow down slow leaks and internal oil burning? I'm only down less than 1/2 quart every 2,000 miles. The engine runs fine and there really isn't any smoke except for starup. (valve stem seals)
I've been using 10w30, but am thinking of using 20w50 when it warms up. Whether or not 20 weight will kill the oil pump is still somewhat of an enigma. I've never used synthetic because of all the conflicting information about it leaking faster because the molecule is smaller. True or not?
Is an engine flush really a bad idea? Would it really leak more if all the gunk was cleaned out?
I'd actually like to see a tech article about this. A lot of people here have 2000,000+ mile engines. I know it won't last forever, but it's holding together so well that I'm inspired to see just how many more miles I can get.
Thanks Guys!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 13,622
Likes: 5
From: Orland Park, IL
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: SLOW carbed ls
Transmission: TH400 with brake, 8" PTC converter
Axle/Gears: moser 9" 4.11
personally i wouldn't mess with success, whatever you do to keep your motor ticking now and 100,000 miles ago i'd continue doing, but don't be upset if it blows up soon, or it might last 50,000 or more....it's always hit or miss. My buddy just spun a bearing on a 129,000 4.3L (original owner) engine which we checked compression last week and gave it a once over and everything checked out perfect. Moral of the story is stick with what you have for success.
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Newark, OH
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
yeah dont mess with a "well oiled machine". think about it like this if you were really old and used to eating one type of food, and not anything crazy like mexican or oriental, it might mess u up if you had some of that go through your system. my family had a truck that we put over 60K on in about a year and a half, to put it over 200K and we just kept on with the same old routine nothing new and it runs fine to this day
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 777
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Car: 1988 Trans Am
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: th700R4
"if its not broken, dont fix it "
1/2 quart every 2000? thats damn good i think..
i like the old geezer analagy..it def makes sence.
def hit or miss...just drive normally... dont take her to the track haha.. i dont know a thirdgen owner with over 100k that doesnt have a valve stem seal startup smoke!! so i think your golden just give her a little TLC
keep the rpms beloww4000 and you should be good for another 100k i think unless the unlucky stuff happens, oil pump, bearing..
other than that good luck with old faithful
1/2 quart every 2000? thats damn good i think..
i like the old geezer analagy..it def makes sence.
def hit or miss...just drive normally... dont take her to the track haha.. i dont know a thirdgen owner with over 100k that doesnt have a valve stem seal startup smoke!! so i think your golden just give her a little TLC
keep the rpms beloww4000 and you should be good for another 100k i think unless the unlucky stuff happens, oil pump, bearing..
other than that good luck with old faithful
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: Newark, OH
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R-4
now you do, mines got 127k with no smoke on start up
but back to the topic like i said dont change anything or you could really start a mess. thats why when i went to do my first oil change in this car i decided to stick with just regular old oil and not switch to synthetic.
good luck! and i hope it keeps running long into the 300's
but back to the topic like i said dont change anything or you could really start a mess. thats why when i went to do my first oil change in this car i decided to stick with just regular old oil and not switch to synthetic.
good luck! and i hope it keeps running long into the 300's
I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just keep changing that oil and you'll be fine. An atf flush will help (1 quart atf/4 quarts motor oil) for 100 or so miles. But really, just keep going and don't feel the /urge need to act.
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You guys are right. I shouldn't second guess myself. It's not my daily driver anymore, anyway. I just wanted to know if anyone started to do anything different when their clock rolled past 200,000.
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: BC Canada
Car: 1985 pontiac trans am
Engine: 350 with carb and headers
Transmission: borg warner 5speed
my engine was like yours. similar problems and alot of k on it. it died. im in the process of replacing it now.
Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Central Florida
Car: 1984 Mint Z28 H.O.
Engine: 305 H.O
Transmission: 4 Speed Auto =| gettin megashifter
i bet
i bet i got all you beat, my beast is turning past 280k right now =) still sounds amazing, run amazing, the only thing thats gone wronge with it is the distributor, and if i rev it to high and let go it backfires, but **** i still beat people left and right and im almost undefeated around here, now thats a chevy smallblock for ya =)
Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 287
Likes: 0
From: Ottawa lk, MI, By Toledo, Oh
Car: 90 RS
Engine: 8 holes
Transmission: Quickest, quicker, quick...
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, 3.73
DONT RUN SYNTHETIC THIS FAR IN THE ENGINE DEVELOPMENT! It would be the worst thing for your engine.. Dont even run the high milege ****. Keep with regular mobil or what ever you run. A atf about 300 miles before your oil change would be a great thing to clean your lifter galley and heads up.. You can see these engines run 300,000 before anything major goes.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,209
Likes: 0
From: Wahiawa, Hawai'i
Car: 1989 TTA
Engine: LC2
Transmission: Worn-out 200R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.27's
*wisper* If I'm not mistaken, they're talking about putting a quart of automatic transmission fluid in their crank - supposed to clean things up real good, but I have my reservations about it... I guess you remove a quart of fluid (unless you're low already) and replace it with ATF, and drive it around. Beats me.... Anyone care to expand on that?
I didn't know this post was still going.
I've heard of using tranny fluid to burn off a lot of buildup in carbeurators, but never in a crankcase. I've heard of an engine flush, which contains mostly kerosine.
280k huh? gives me hope
I've heard of using tranny fluid to burn off a lot of buildup in carbeurators, but never in a crankcase. I've heard of an engine flush, which contains mostly kerosine.280k huh? gives me hope
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 1
From: Pacific Northwest
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
I have 265k on mine. It both leaks and burns oil, but less than 1q mo. I have a rebuild on standby for when the day comes, but it doesn't seem to be coming anytime soon.
Last summer I put a roller cam & lifters and new timing chain in, and put some higher CR heads on along with new valve stem seals, 1.6 roller rockers, and new pushrods. Also a carb, because the oil burning was possibly fouling the O2 sensor.
The new valve seals stopped the oil smoke on startup, the CR increase didn't blow out the rings the way everyone said it would, and right now it's running much stronger than when it was new.
Pretty much all I've done is basic routine maintenance, and those mods.
How Bout Dat ?
Last summer I put a roller cam & lifters and new timing chain in, and put some higher CR heads on along with new valve stem seals, 1.6 roller rockers, and new pushrods. Also a carb, because the oil burning was possibly fouling the O2 sensor.
The new valve seals stopped the oil smoke on startup, the CR increase didn't blow out the rings the way everyone said it would, and right now it's running much stronger than when it was new.
Pretty much all I've done is basic routine maintenance, and those mods.
How Bout Dat ?
Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
From: Highland,IN
Car: 84 Z/97 Tacoma 4X4
Engine: 350 H.O Crate,slp 1 3/4,3"catback,Edelelbrock 1406,Edelbrock perfrormer Endurashine
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Like everyone said, don't worry.
As long as your oil pressure is still good,keep on doing what your doing.
Just keep the oil fresh you'll be fine.
As long as your oil pressure is still good,keep on doing what your doing.
Just keep the oil fresh you'll be fine.
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