It was throwing a lean code. I bumped the fuel pressure, but now its thowing a 13. Shoud i just replace the oxygen sensor? can anyone recomend a good one for use with my headers? Its still getting slower. I went to the track friday, couldnt break 16.0. Every time i fix something someting else seems to go wrong. Any suggestions on what i should do? Im completely out of ideas. It also runs like total crap if its not at least 200*, which is hard to reach when its cold out.

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305 TBI
700-R4
L98 cam, 1 5/8 headers, 2 1/2 y-pipe, 4bbl edelbrock performer, holley adapter, open element K&N, afpr, flowmaster catback, MSD coil, accel wires cap & rotor, vette servos, shift kit, 2000 stall converter, TC lockup switch, all the free mods and some I left out.

 

Rock,

If you're got more than 30,000 miles on the oxygen sensor, it might be a good preventive maintenance item, and since it's suspect, the twenty bucks might be well spent.

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Later,
Vader
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"I'm gonna talk about some freaky sheet now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts

 

Sounds like the oxygen sensor would be a good idea but you've also got other problems! My car runs between 160 and 175 degrees constantly even in the summer time and my car runs great! My car runs worse when it gets up even close to 200 degrees!

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1986 Trans AM
305 TPI
4 Wheel Discs
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear
Completely Stock
Soon to upgrade to a 383 stroker w/TPI, pocket ported 64CC heads, ported intake, comp cam, TPI air foil, Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, possibly bigger injectors!
Current project: Keeping my car running until I get the money for the above mentioned project! :-)

 

Here are some other symptoms.

1. It misses and backfires above 3,000 RPM.

2. If i leave it it a lower gear (ie. 1st at 30 mph) where it is steady st 3,000 rpm, and then i punch it, It pulls just fine.

If anyone has any other suggestions as to what could be happening Id really be gratefull. There is no way the oxygen sensor is causing me to loose 6 10ths in the 1/4.

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305 TBI
700-R4
L98 cam, 1 5/8 headers, 2 1/2 y-pipe, 4bbl edelbrock performer, holley adapter, open element K&N, afpr, flowmaster catback, MSD coil, accel wires cap & rotor, vette servos, shift kit, 2000 stall converter, TC lockup switch, all the free mods and some I left out.

 

I'm no expert but if your o2 sensor is giving you bad readings then the computer might retard or advance the **** out your timing, which would in turn cause the stumble above 3000rpms and the fact that your car is slow as ****...

just my .2cents....

 

A TPS is always a good suspect, even if it's not throwing a code. A quick way of checking the TPS internals is to hook up an old style meter movement (with a needle) across the center terminal and one of the other terminals. Switch to Ohmmeter and measure the resistance as you open and close the throttle. The needle should move SMOOTHLY with no jerkiness.