I was removing my crank bolt to install my balancer and wouldnt you know it, The damn bolt was galded on the very end...It was hard to get out but I did get it out...I went and got a new bolt but it wont go in, I guess the threads are f***ed, can a crank be re-tapped?

How hard is it to do that? Where do I go to get a tap?

I cant believe this happened.......This project has turned into a nightmare...

any ideas?

thanks guys!

 

Heres how far along I am getting it all back together.......now the freakin bolt! DAMN!!!!

 

I dunno - It doesn't look that bad to me.

It works if it's just the threads on the end. Might be worth a shot!!

Or drill it out with angle drill and Heli-coil it. But I've never put one in...but I know there pretty much a permanent fix if installed right....

OR.....tack weld the balancer on!!

They have taps at most hardware stores....take your new bolt to them and they can get you the right tap....

 

I guess I need to go to the auto parts store and get a tap and run that in the bolt hole and see what that does....Ive never tapped a hole,,,,,,,,the tap wont go in easy, it will take some force to re-thread it, huh?

My bolt was threaded all the way in the hole and as you can see the bad part on the bolt is on the tip..so it had to pass thru all the hole threading to get it out...Ive tried running a new bolt in but it wont go.....thats why Im asking if a tapper will go in easier to make new threads?

 

They have taps that are kinda pointy on the end.....I think they call it a non-bottming tap. It should cut new starting threads if your careful and make sure it's dead b*lls straight as you twist it in.

And use plenty of oil!! You're just cleaning up the existing threads, not making new ones !!

As soon as those first few threads clean up it goes in easier....and no, it doesn't take much force at all....

 

non-bottoming, that's a good one. if you don't want the salesman to laugh at you ask for a tapered or starting tap and a bottoming tap. use one to start and one to finish the hole. might want to try a little oil or cutting fluid while you're doing it. if the threads are too far gone i'd tap it to the next larger size that i could buy a crank bolt for. next size over most likely would be metric but i don't know about getting a crank bolt in metric. there's a very good chance all you need to do is clean up the threads and it'll be ok. why did you even have the bolt in so tight to begin with and not have the dampner already on?

 

Looks like one more victim of self-inflicted crank bolt problems learns about turning the crank with the bolt...

What happened here, is that when you put the bolt on without the balancer, it went much deeper in than it ordinarily does; and the end of the bolt got all the way past the tapped threads in the crank.

The bolt hole may still be OK. Mostly you need to chase the threads on the bolt itself with a 7/16"-20 die. Do that first, and leave the hole alone unless it doesn't work once the bolt is repaired.

 

yep, thats exactly what I did!.......how else was I suppose to turn the crank? maybe I should have also put the washer on it to, huh?

Vicitm, I am......I just hope I can get the threads fixed. I just got back from auto zone and rented a hole threader, let me see what I can do with the hole and I'll post back.....

Its cold outside in the non-heated garage, plus its snowing!!!

DAMN the white sutff, why today of all times when I need to go to the parts store...I also want to get this kit back to the guy at AZ, he let me have it without paying for the rental,($89.00) so I dont want to get him in trouble, gotta get it back ASAP...

 

Like this.... about $15, cheaper than the die to repair the damage from using the bolt.

 

What he said...

And if you determine that the crank snout threads are damaged, try a 7/16-20 PLUG tap to begin with. Chances are you won't need a bottoming tap, since the bolt threads never go in that far anyway.

If you can't get a good thread at the stock 7/16-20, never fear. Ed Cole and Zoras Duntov were pretty smart fellers, and selected 7/16-20 so that if the threads somehow DO get FUBAR, you can retap to 1/2-20 without even drilling/resizing the hole. Of course, if you have to do that, you'll need a 1/2-20 bolt, 2¼" long, and at least a Grade 5. The factory bolt is a 7/16-20 Grade 8, but you can use a Grade 5 in 1/2-20 if you are careful to torque only to the 65Ft/Lb specification.

While you're at the hardware store, pick up a length of either 7/16-20 or 1/2-20 threaded rod at least 5" long (or whatever thread size you end up using), and two mating nuts. Use that to install your balancer from now on.

Next time you pull a balancer, use a crank socket to turn the crank. They're about $12 - or half of what you're going to spend for taps, dies, and fasteners to hopefully repair your snout.

 

No doubt about it - I gotta get a faster connection. Two of these replies weren't even here when I started typing.

 

To turn the crank, I usually just slide the balancer on (if its already off) and stick the three pulley bolts in the balancer and use a crow bar between two of the bolts at a time. Usually takes about 6 pulls to get it around 360* but it works.

 

oh, so I should use an impact on the bolt and the bolt will go in strait too right? JK seems like majority do what you did no biggie alot also do the same thing when they take off the ballancer and don't use the forcing screw tip.

 

Ok guys the thread restorer worked....I was able to get the tap in and fix the hole...I had a balancer installer already from when I rented that, so I went ahead and finished my balancer..

one question, the balancer will be all the way i when I cant move it in anymore, right?

 

you could also use a flywheel/flexplate turner to turn the crank assuming you have one bolted on.. not sure which company makes em.. I know I got mine from snap-on for 45 bucks a few years back.. better for automatic cars really.. you can just remove the inspection cover.. with a manual you kinda have pull the tranny and bellhousing.. its been a pretty handy tool for me though....

 

yes the balance should be seated when you can no longer move it. never measured but there's about 1/8" between the end of the crank and the ledge the washer sits on. i just put a new balancer on my 402 and it would only go about half way. no idea why but i honed the bore in the balancer and ran some emory arcoss the end of the crank and after a few tries i got it to fit.

 

ede - Please feel free to actually READ my post!!! If you look closely, I said I THINK it may be called a non-bottoming tap....

Unless you think I'm trying to set people up to get laughed at.

Thanks. I'll be sure to pick your responses to death in the future...

Anyway, glad to see you fixed it Wishmaster's87IROC - BTW, nice looking engine you have there!

 

Wishy,
If you pay my air fare i'll come and do it for you.Cant say fairer than that eh?
PM

 

LOL....yeah I'll be sure to do that....tickets in the mail....its should only be a few dollars, eh?

thanks guys!



1/8 between what? I just turned the balancer installer till it would not go any futher.... Im pretty sure its seated.

The way mine was set up was balancer, crank pulley and then the washer and bolt.....thats right?

 

Thats right.

 

If you've got the bolt torqued to 65 lb/ft, you should be all set.

I think we've all done that one once or twice. We finally learn, get the correct installer/removal/crank turning tools, then advise everyone else not to do what we did...

 

What tool is that? I need to get myself one of those....I've been using the pulleys to turn the engine over.

 

crank turning socket. cost around 20 dollars, i make mine, don't look quite as good as the ones you buy, but way cheaper.

 

Sounds like a plan. Ede, would you happen to have a pic of your homemade one?

RBob.

 

WHen I put my balancer back on I forgot to grease the seal on the timing cover, will that be a problem? Should I take it back off and grease it? I just got in a hurry and forgot...

 

YES. when it starts dry it will damage the lip of the seal. cheap insurance if you ask me

 

So your saying I should pull the balancer back off and put some oil on the balancer seal in the timing cover? Can I just rub some regular oil on the seal? or does it have to be some special kind of stuff?

Im glad I havent taken the puller and installer back yet...guess I'll do that tomorrow.......damn, I thought I could get away with it.

 

yes just reg motor oil works fine (you are just keeping the rubber from rubbing while dry. its kinda like when you burn tires it does not take much to wear down the tread- same Idea). some times you can get away with what was already on the balancer shaft but, why chance it?

 

no pics, i'm not smart enough to post pics. all i do is take a piece of pipe or pipe fitting close to the correct size. turn it on a lathe to the correct size and then mill a slot in it for the key. then i cut the drive end off an old socket and weld to the pipe. i've got 4 or 5 i've made.

 

Gotcha'. Thanks,

RBob.