I recently finished installing a open element, rpm intake, headers and ignition stuff on my 87 camaro. The car starts then the revs move up to 2000 rpm but will not stay running unless I keep giving it gas and when I don't give it gas it dies and shoots flames out of the carb (scary sh*t). I know open headers will make it run a little off but this has to be do to something else. The ignition stuff I added was a crane adjustable timing kit (springs/ vac. advance) cap, rotor, and msd plug wires. Also I eliminated what little amount of emission stuff the car had on it and plugged all the vaccum ports with plugs.

Im not sure where to start? Is it to much timing? Vaccum leak?

Edit: Can anyone help I really need the car to get to my new job on Monday.

 

Alright I can get the car to stay running now but its at 2000 rpm all I did was take off the crance vac. adv. can and put the stock one back on. This is leading me to beleive the problem is in the timing, but I got the rotor to line up with my mark I made before I pulled the distributer. I have checked the plug wires and they are in the right order. How can I set the timing when it will not idle?

 

have u tried turning the cap a lil clockwise/counterclock wise to see if it will least idle long enough for you to slap the timing gun on it?

sounds like a timing problem, too advanced perhaps...

 

I'd start with timing.
Make sure all the plug wires are right.
Did you put a cam in when you modded it?

Modding your car B4 starting a new job... Yikes!

 

I have the plug wires marked and check over real good. I didn't touch the cam. Im going to try and mess with the distributer a little more tomorrow. Im also gonna spray a little carb cleaner to see if there is a vaccum leak.

 

what all emissions stuff did you eliminate? which engine is this on? if its computer controlled you probably need a new chip...

 

Its an 87 camaro lg4 auto and is a canadian car so it does not have a cc carb or distributer but does have a q-jet. I deleted the egr, fuel vapour canister and the valve that was in between the exhaust manifold and y-pipe. The only things that are hooked to the carb are the pcv, distributer vaccum advance, TC lockup, and Brakes.

 

Sounds like you didn't set the timing. You said you just put your distributor back in where you made your marks? That is okay to get it to start but you need to set the base timing when the car is running. That is your problem if you have not done that. Make sure you set it corecctly. What kind of car is this on?

 

I know I need to set the timing but I can't get it to idle yet.

 

Try this
Set your motor so it's in the firing position for #1. (timing marks lined up)
Set the dist so the rotor is pointing at #1, or a little before #1.
Disconnect the #1 plug wire and place it near a ground where you can see it.
Put the cap back on and turn the key to run.
Rotate the dist counter clockwise til the #1 plug wire sparks.
Tighten the dist clamp.
Start the engine.
Check it with a timing light.

 

or simply move the distributor a little bit and then start it up untill it idles.

 

I turned the dist. clockwise and can get the engine to 1000 rpm but runs rough and when I shut it off I can't get it started agian unless it turn the dist. counter-clockwise. I can't let the car warm up cause im in a underground parking lot and the paint off the headers is filling it with smoke and I don't want to set off the sprinklers . I noticed that the headers are getting hot very fast.

 

Did you adjust your valve lash, or do anything to the rockers or pushrods?
Did you drop anything down the int ports?
Have you checked comp?
RPM intake with a Qjet, so there's an adapter on there?

 

So did you check for the vacuum leak, are you hearing a whistling or whining sound. Headers get hotter than usual quicker when there is a real lean condition from a vacuum leak somtimes. Does it rev for a little after you push throttle and let go?

 

Jimmy_mac you just hit the nail on the head. That is what is happening when I rev it up and I hear a winy sound to. I'll have to check that out this weekend.

 

If all your vacuum ports are connected and/or plugged off on your carb and manifold, also check at the base of the carb. I spent weeks one time chasing a vacuum leak that turned out to be a couple of washers that were put on before the carb was. They provided just enough space for a bad leak but not enough to be seen by the eye unless you looked really really close. Good luck.