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Q's on cam locking plate and gasket sealants

Old Jan 27, 2001 | 12:46 PM
  #1  
Paul Riccioli Jr's Avatar
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From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Q's on cam locking plate and gasket sealants

I have two quick questions:
1) How do you install the cam bolt locking plate? Does it go inbetween the cam and gear or over the gear, and how do the tabs get bent?
2) Should I use some type of gasket sealant in addition to the actual gaskets for things like my rear main seal, oil pan, timing cover, etc.?

Thanks.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.
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Old Jan 27, 2001 | 12:53 PM
  #2  
RB83L69's Avatar
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
1. It goes on top of the gear under the bolts, and the tabs bend up against the flats of the bolt heads to keep them from turning. One thing to watch out for: on some timing covers, there isn't enough clearance between the bolt heads and the TC to acomodate the extra spacer in there. Check before you button it all up.

2. If you have a 2-piece rear main sela, use a drop of silicone at the ends, so that there won't be a leak where they meet. It also helps to offset the ends slightly from the junction of the cap and the block. On the side of the cap closer to the oil filter, smear a thin layer of silicone between the parts, as there is oil pressure there that can leak (squirt) directly to the outside world. On both sides of the cap, put a small bead along the very corner of the cap's slot, since oil can also leak there. For the other things, follow the gasket mfrs'. recommendations.

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ICON Motorsports
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Old Jan 27, 2001 | 02:43 PM
  #3  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
i use permatex high tack on the block for the oil pan rail gaskets, water pump, t-stat, and china wall gaskets, mostly to keep the gaskets from moving around. use silicone on the oil pan rubber seals to the rail gaskets and the same on the intakes.. if the engine is on a stand i use the factory china wall gaskets and use a punch to make a lot of ***** marks in the iron and on the intake. use k&w copper spray sealer on the head and intake and use permatex ultracopper silicone. use silicone on the water passages on the intake to head if it's pitted much, other wise i just use the gaskets. if the engine is in a car i use silicone on the china walls. use liquid teflon pipe sealer on the head bolts, and all the others that penetrate to a waer jacket. most people i think just use silicone for everything. hope that helps

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ICON Motorsports

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Old Jan 27, 2001 | 10:06 PM
  #4  
Paul Riccioli Jr's Avatar
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Banned
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Joined: Feb 2000
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From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks. Exactly what are the china walls?

------------------
Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.
Reply
Old Jan 28, 2001 | 09:26 AM
  #5  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
where the intake end seal sit. what most people use silicone for instead of the runner seal. i guess gm called them that because they resembled the great wall of china, well sort of if you squint your eyes just right.

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ICON Motorsports

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