Valve seals on a 305
01-24-2001, 06:58 PM
#1
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Valve seals on a 305
My 305 has been fouling plugs about every six months and it gets a funky idle when it is run for a long time. My friend told me that the heads on a 305 leak oil through the umbrella seals. Is that the seal below the spring? How hard is it to replace them? What is involved in replacing them? And how much are we talking here?
01-24-2001, 07:10 PM
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yeah it's the seal "under" the spring. cost is less than 20 dollars. easy to do with a on the car valve spring compressor and using compressed air to hold the valve up.
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01-24-2001, 07:19 PM
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does your car leave a puff of blue smoke outta the exhaust when intially started after sitting for awhile? this is a sign of bad valve seals. are your plugs foiling because of oil deposits or running too rich? do all the plugs look the same?
replacing them isn't too hard really. for in car repair, you must fill the cylinder with air first. then, compress the valve spring and remove the keeps, you can get a tool that uses the rocker stud to compress the spring. if you do replace the seal, i would just get positive seals.
replacing them isn't too hard really. for in car repair, you must fill the cylinder with air first. then, compress the valve spring and remove the keeps, you can get a tool that uses the rocker stud to compress the spring. if you do replace the seal, i would just get positive seals.
01-24-2001, 08:37 PM
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Don't laugh, but a friend told me he changed his valve springs on his 440 Mopar
by slipping about ten feetof 1/4" nylon rope
through each sparkplug hole, then turning
the engine with a wrench until the rope was firmly against the valves. Then he removed the keepers with one of those K-D prybar-type
tools and changed the seals and springs.
I have read of this method before, but have
not tried it myself.
I guess it would be safe if you removed the battery cable and put a big sign on the
steering wheel reminding yourself that there
was the better part of a 12 foot rope in the
motor!
by slipping about ten feetof 1/4" nylon rope
through each sparkplug hole, then turning
the engine with a wrench until the rope was firmly against the valves. Then he removed the keepers with one of those K-D prybar-type
tools and changed the seals and springs.
I have read of this method before, but have
not tried it myself.
I guess it would be safe if you removed the battery cable and put a big sign on the
steering wheel reminding yourself that there
was the better part of a 12 foot rope in the
motor!
01-28-2001, 02:17 PM
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Car: 1989 Firebird Formula
Engine: Internal Combustion
Transmission: Completed
Axle/Gears: ones that turn.
I've used the 'rope through the sparkplug hole' method myself and it worked fine...just tie the free end of the rope to something that won't fit through the hole; I know someone who stuffed the entire piece of rope into the cylinder....we managed to fish it out with a coat hanger.
Pete
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Pete
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203+k mile LG4/5-speed
14.935@94.14
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