Ok, how can I disable the stupid secuirty chip on my key? My car won't start because the key isn't reading... this feature has given me more problems then it is worth, and besides, no one would know it is disabled anyways. Any ideas?

 

I don't have the VATS on my car, but from what I've read in posts the only way to disable it is to find out what type of resistor is in the key and find one identical to it and wire it in somewhere (not sure were though). You could also get into prom burning, I believe there's an option to dissable it in the prom.

------------------
86 TPI 305 Iroc-Z
700R4 (rebuilt)
Accel HEI SuperCoil
Flowmaster
K&N Filters
Comp Cams H268 218@.050 454/454

 

Check out this bit on in the tech section....hope this helps!https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/vats.shtml
Jon.

 

Just by a new key! The old one is probably worn out.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

there are several ways but just FYI, that stupid security chip is the only reason my sister kept her 89 GTA and the only reason our dealership wasn't one less trans am when they stole about 15 cars off the lot one weekend. All my sister and our dealership had to replace was steering column parts. They found the pickup the took instead the next day about 50 miles away when they ran out of gas. those thieves can be as good as they want but they can't get past VATS, I only wish my 86 had it. Glad both my 89's do.

------------------
Kyle Osterholt
Okarche, Oklahoma
ASE Master Certified
86 T/A 383 TPI
89 TTA #1002 T-top/Leather
89 TTA #1358 Hardtop/Leather
80 T/A Pace Car
73 Opel GT
73 bronco

 

If you look in the resource page at sc3gfb.org, there is an article on bypassing the V.A.T.S. In the article the author suggests that if you put the right resistor on a plug, you can plug it in to drive the car, and put the resistor in your pocket to disable the car when you leave.

 

Wow, that sounds easier then I thought.... I'm going to do just as that article says, and possibly wire a toggle switch into the circuit so it is still a security feature.

Humm, whats stopping someone from quickly attaching a variable resistor across the two wires under the dash and starting it like any other car after sweeping through it's range? Just a thought...

Thanx a ton for the info, hopefully I won't get stuck anywhere after I fix my car.

------------------
Owner of a 1989 IROC Camaro, a.k.a. "The Babe Magnet". Painted a cheap metallic blue that chips off all too easily and covers over the IROC decals on the doors, also has non-leaking T-tops, ps, pw, power rear hatch, working A/C. Mods: SLP intake runners, gutted MAF sensor, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, modified air spoil, 3.2? posi rear end.
Broken stuff: rear spoiler brake light, driver side lock, power antenna, tilt steering, rear end bushings, cracked passanger side ground effect, washer fluid tab, leaking exhaust and a rotted through muffler that sparks when the car bottoms out while driving like any 17 year old does.

 

Now a days, VATs are almost useless to an experienced car thief. When I used to reposess cars, that was one of the required tools we had to have. We did work for GMAC, and there was (still?) only 25 different resistors. You'd be suprised how many didn't even work!!

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

 

Or you could just try cleaning the contacts in the lock cylinder...it's probably a lot faster and easier.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"I'm gonna talk about some freaky sheet now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts

 

ok let me tell you what happened to me!! just sit back and enjoy!! ok mine decided to do the same thing so one day i was at the local cruise spot and right in front of everynoe i tried to start my car and when i did this it got stuck in the run position! the position where the starter is engaged! yeah it stayed enguaged!! that really sucked ! i burned up my starter right then and there! what fun that was! yes i to had!(i stress..had the whole vats system)!! and i finally got it out of thr run position and got it to go back to the start area but it was stack there now! so it would run down my battery if i didnt get out of the car (still running in park!) and kill it by pulling the coil wire off the cap! every time i wanted to go in some where (like a store, mall, etc. you get the point! anyway i just ahd it re-placed with a basic 11 dollar kit from napa and the vats was disabled just pull the dash and get rid of the damn light i agree the dumbest thing g.m. ever came up with and it's fun too!!! haha!

------------------
1989 firebird formula

Mods: converted from T.B.I. to a carburator 305 to a 350. Flowmater exhaust,hedman shortie hedders,202 heads,350 horse cam,bored.40 over, Edlebrock torker2 and a 600 edlebrock manual choke.

Future mods performer rpm air gap intake (polished) comp roller cam, and way better headsa 400 defintely in the works!

 

ummm, how'd your vats system engage the starter? it only prevents starter activation and injector fire. it cannot engage the starter. that was due to the key and tumbler more than likely and makes no difference whether it was vats or not. I don't know a lot of thieves but I know very few around here are even smart enough to know what a resistor is let alone carry them around with them. That would take forever. And on the newer systems, if it gets an incorrect reading, it disables the vehicle for 10 minutes so if you don't get it in the first shot it doesn't work period. you can do what you like with your cars but I'll keep mine thanks.

------------------
Kyle Osterholt
Okarche, Oklahoma
ASE Master Certified
86 T/A 383 TPI
89 TTA #1002 T-top/Leather
89 TTA #1358 Hardtop/Leather
80 T/A Pace Car
73 Opel GT
73 bronco

 

I disabled my vats partly because my ignition cyllinder had a short and partly because I swapped columns and didn't want to mess with it. It's really a good system but that comment about running out of gas gives me an idea. I wonder about rigging one of those magnetically activated switches inline with the fuel pump wiring harness! That way you could route the switch through the ground effects or something and even put a magnet in your right shoe so only you could drive your car! How trick is THAT?

------------------
Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: Accel 300+ wires, cap&rotor
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, hopefully engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...