ok, today i pulled the switch i broke from my head (spilled coolant EVERYWHERE! lol) anyways, i went and put the hypertech one in place. While i was screwing it in with my hand, i notcied that it doesn't look the same as my replacement one. The STOCK one has like a bare "nipple" and then thread will start... on the NEW one there is no "nipple" on it. just threads... is this right? or did i get the wrong part? i ordered PN 4028 the 185*-200* switch...
*i know this isn't exhaust, but i'm going to ask a question anyways*

When i got my headers in and bolted, the bar that goes on the AC compresser won't fit through where the bolt is on the headers... so, i'm wondering do i REALLY need that bar? i'm sure i do, but i don't know any other way i can get it on. If any one has any information on this it would be appreicated.
-Abe

[This message has been edited by Abe91Z28 (edited January 28, 2001).]

 

i'd say your fan switch is fine. i'd put it in and run it. on mine i had to crimp the switch wire to my factory harness. no idea about your headers.

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ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd

 

thanks Ede.
do i have to do anything to the switch to make it "seal" in place? All i did was bolt it in. I think i'm going to have to do some "splicing" of my wires because the orginal plastic clip that was on the orginal switch got butchered by me. So, now i'm going to have to clip the fan switch wire and then splice the orginal wire with the fan switch one.
Thanks again.
-Abe

 

Abe, if your Hypertech fan switch is like the one I just got, you're going to have to splice it in anyways since Hypertech didn't use the same style connector on their replacement switch as the factory one. Must be a patent issue or something I guess. Kinda irritates me considering how much they charge for their stupid little switch!

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

My Hypertech looked differant but it plugged right in.

 

Myt hypertech switch plugged right in with a factory connector! The car didn't have on, but I got th pigtail from GM for a couple bucks.

There should be no problem at all with putting the switch in there even though the end is different.

I would put some teflon pipe sealant on the threads though (tape or paste)



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Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350
using primarily GMPP parts.
Block is STILL in shop! (Waiting for my to buy the rods!)

ASE Certified Master Tech

Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!

 

The new switches all have a different connector than the factory switch. I called Hypertec about that and they had "production problems". Whatever that means.

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'89 Formula 383 TPI