Dan87IROC-Z

I took off my rocker arms so I cound pull the lifters and push rods out to do the cam swap. I'm sure some of the valves had to be open when I took off the rockers so they had to close, right? How do I set it so that they are back they way they need to be? This is really confuseing to me. And, when I get my new timing chain, how do I get it on the crank and cam gear lined up, the crank gear can only go on a certian way, so I do I have to rotate the engine to line it up with the cam gear?

------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

Pino91Formula

you dont set the valve to the original positon, before you start tearing everything down you set the engine tdc or Top dead center , and thats what you use as a reference. If you dont do this , its just a loy harder to setup you timing again

R.O.B.

I agree, set your engine to TDC, its a good start point. When you do the timing chain, there will be a dot on both gears, line up the cam gear dot a 6 o'clock, and the crank gear at 12 o'clock, the dots will be straight up from each other. As for the rockers, there is a procedure to cold set them. Refer to the Chilton book for this. Its goes along the lines of tighten #1 intake and #5 exhaust, rotate the engine 1 turn, do #6 intake, #2 exhause. Something like that.

------------------
Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF
Ported Plenum

Dan87IROC-Z

Thanks guys, anyone else?

------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

JakeJr

I just sent you an email with an attachment file I wrote on how to adjust the preload on the lifters and installing the camshaft gear/chain.

Let me know if you need any other help.

Jake



------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

Dan87IROC-Z

Thanks a lot, man!

------------------
1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End

Current Mods: LT4 Hot Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition Coil, Cap, Rotor, 8.8mm Wires, K&N Filters, JET TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET (w/o LT4 cam): 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

7.5" 10 Bolt with 3.42s soon to come!

JakeJr

Here's some other thoughts:

If the engine's still in the car, pulling the crank gear is going to be a little tight.

I can pull mine, but I've got a Vette so my clearance at the front may be different than yours.

If you have enough room, you'll need a three jaw gear puller. Don't get a 'cheapie' because it'll bend. Use a piece of flat metal or some other method to prevent the puller from damaging the threads in the snout of the crank. A short bolt of the same size and thread as the crank bolt will work.

It'll take a pretty good amount of leverage to get the crank gear to begin to move, but once it does begin to move, it becomes much easier.

When installing the new gear, be sure to use the "straight up" mark if your new gear has three or more keyway notches. (I'm assuming you're not going to degree in the new camshaft).

In tapping on the new gear, don't hit it near the teeth. If you've got a socket large enough to fit over the OD of the crankshaft snout, that will work. There is a special tool for installing the crank gear, but you can use a brass dowel or something similar and tap on alternating sides of the gear, as close to the crank as you can.

Be sure to tap it all the way until it's firmly installed. You'll be able to tell when it's all the way on because the sound and feel of your hammer blows will change to a solid sound. You can measure the distance from your existing gear to the end of the snout then compare that distance to the new once to reassure yourself that it's all the way on. Of course, both the new and old gear have to be the same thickness +/- a tad.

Lining up the camshaft/crank dots is easiest if you have a hand held bump starter available at AutoZone, Pep Boys, etc. It makes asjusting the lifter preload a breeze too.

Remember, it's critical that the DOTS ALIGN AND ARE NOT 'ONE TOOTH OFF'. 12 o'clock on the crank gear and 6 o'clock on the cam gear.

There are a lot of different ways to adjust the lifter preload and all of them will work if the correct procedure is followed. For more years than I care to remember I've used the EO/adjust intake; IC/adjust exhaust method. I've found it's fool-proof and the easiest to use. Other guys may have a different preference.

If you have any question about the file I sent, shoot me a line.

Hope this helps,

Jake

------------------
1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9