K&N and Platnum 4's? Pulleys? Hi-Flo cat? Not much else to choose from..ideas?

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

For about $30 you can make your own Cold Air kit, like some of the ones from the Tech section.. I am about to do the same to mine. Don't waste your money on +4s if that's what your are talking about... and for another $50 probably get a nice K&N cone for the end of that CAI. Still got $20 to treat yourself and me to lunch when you're done!

------------------
Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, MSD 6AL, Aluminum Driveshaft, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Modified MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil

15.556 @ 86.65mph, Nov 10, 2000.... I know it sucks.. but it will get better!

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

 

For $100, might I suggest some suspension upgrades? Try out a set of lower control arms with poly bushings. You'll hook up better off the line. Same goes with the panhard rod. I found my slow 1-2 shift was nothing more than tire spin. I got kicked in the pants good and hard after adding a Spohn rear suspension...



------------------
Daniel Burk
http://www.isthq.com/~dan/fcar.html
'84 Trans Am WS6/L69
KB SFC, Moser axles, Torsen Diff. PST suspension, Braided stainless brake lines, Koni struts, 11-inch rear disks,Spohn Adj. torque arm,
Ported 305 heads w/1.94"intake valves, Comp Cams XE262H, Griffen alum. radiator,
Turbine Technologies 2500 stall converter, underdrive pulleys, Crane Hi-6 & more.
1.05g skidpad verified.
New best E/T! 14.039 at 100.82 MPH in 41 degree air at Stanton, Michigan.

 

Don't even bother doing a "performance" spark plug upgrade. Every time i sell those +4's to someone i think, what a moron.
Think about it. The electric current will only go from the point to one of the tips. That leaves 3 tips that never get spark contact. Also, no power will be added by getting those. The only time you would notice it is if your car runs 11 seconds and under. A daily driven, street car can only benefit from a regular tune-up. A performance tune-up is crock. Get AC Delco plugs.

As for what to spend $100 on, i would buy a pair of Flowtech headers from JC Whitney. I know they are no SLP's, but the bang vs. buck is there. They come with everything you need for an install, and perform about 90% as well as Edelbrock TES headers. They are also 200 less. If emissions is a concern, an extra $45 will give you the AIR tube holes.

------------------
--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
RPO codes point to Recaro version
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

Hey I'd go with white guage faces!! Maybe it's not a performance mod but they kick some butt and you'll notice it more than just 5-10 horsepower.

With less than the left over $30 you can cut out your air boxes, run some ducting behind the fog lights, as shown in the tech articles. That picks up about 0.2 seconds in the quarter. Maybe for about 25 cents you could put a quarter in your pressure regulator to boost your fuel presure and pick up another tenth.

 

What about a shift light? I forgot to mention that I open to adding functional rice to my car. A shift light would be nice for those powershifts..I am getting tired of looking down while flooring it. Something about that that bothers me..Who makes a good shift light? I don't want a monster tach..that's just rice..for my car at least..About the P4 plugs..I have the U-grooves in right now and heard they were not that great of a plug. I cant afford those awesome NGK's..so I figured P4's would work fine.

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

sorta off topic, but ... you look down when you shift? gotta learn the rpm sound/feel..

 

GAWD I HATE THOSE WHITE FACE GAUGES!!!!!!

Obnoxious!!!! Gauges are suppose to be subtle. It is the needle that is to be noticed. I wonder if "UR A PEEIN" cars came with but-plugs, I bet a bunch of maroons would install but-plugs in their ride and say "it's cool"

Go with headers!!!!!

 

Yarn,

For a little less than $100 you can get a nice die grinder for your compressor, or a decent electric grinder (something with a 1/4" collet - not a 1/8" one).

Once you have the grinder, a lot of performance mods are "free", like plenum and runner porting, head and valve bowl porting, gasket matching the exhausts, polishing the chambers and exhaust ports, etc.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
KaleCo Auto Parts

 

Some guy from LS1.com sells shift lights for $35 here's his site. http://harlan.sketchy.net/

Others to consider

A) used aluminum driveshaft
B) aftermarket LCAs
C) aftermarket shifter
D) Dremel to port your TPI system

Any of them sounds like a good idea to me. Check the classifieds, CamaroZ28 and Yahoo Auctions for good prices on whatever you buy.

------------------
1989 Camaro RS LO3 WCT5 0-60' 2.34 1/4 15.8@87mph
http://350.StreetRacing.org
The posi unit breaker.

 

Hey 84 TA! It's not that the spark is supposed to go to all four ground electrodes. It's the fact that the flame kernel is exposed to the combustion chamber and not shrouded by conventional designs. Side gapping has been around for years, which is very similar to the +4 design. That's filing the ground electrode down so the center electrode is exposed. Most dyno tests will document about a 5HP gain on a 300HP engine. Now who the dumb@ss. LOL

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

[This message has been edited by CamaroMike (edited January 30, 2001).]

 

He won't notice it on his car so that would be a waste of around $50. You said 300 hp, i doubt he puts out that much. But he didn't say. Those spark plugs are only noticeable in high power engines, just like gaining 30 hp by getting a flowmaster :P

Besides, 5 hp is the dinkiest gain for the money.
------------------
--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
RPO codes point to Recaro version
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series

[This message has been edited by 84TransAm (edited January 31, 2001).]

 

Does JC Whitney have a site to visit??

 

Yea I still look down when I shift! I think alot of people must if the use of a tachometer is still accepted. Those $35 shift lights look cool I'd like to mount in the vent or something similar to what that Cvic did..I don't want a big tube lying around on my dash..I have an AFPR I am puting on..when I do that I will port the plenum..with someone elses dremel.. I'd like to get a pair of MAC Headers but they are about 400 bucks and I was talking about 100 dollar mods..If you find me an aluminum driveshaft for 100 bucks I'll buy it. Havent look in the classifieds recently..maybe now is a good time. Thanks for all the ideas..keep 'em coming..

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

Plain and simple. Give your ride a tune up. Nothing beats a well tuned engine.

------------------
'82 Firebird, dead stock, 9 bolt disc rear, over 200,000 miles and still going strong, more to come...
http://www.spinfrenzy.com/stingerssx...easures.html#4

 

84TA I just spent 800 bucks on my heads for 35HP. 800/35=23 dollars per HP. That's 115 bucks for 5HP. I would love to spend 50 bucks for 5HP! A 355HP crate engine is 3300 bucks. 3300/355=9.30 dollars per HP. So 5HP is 46.50 dollars. HMMMMMM sounds about right to me! Quit talking out of ignorance. Idiot!

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

Good question Yarnboy. Like CamaroMike suggests, HP/$ is what we're talking about here, unless you want to include trans, suspension, and other upgrades. For this discussion, take those out but go a little further. Raise the limit to $500. Do the math, actual (not claimed, this is based on your experience) on these mods:

K&N
Throttle Body AirFoil
TB Coolant Bypass
Bigger Throttle Body
AFPR
Ignition System Upgrade
Port TB/Plenum, Plenum, Plenum/Runners Runners/Intake
1.6 Rocker Arms
PROM
Headers

Assume that each mod is applied to a stock engine. Combinations are OK if they fit under the $500 limit. I know few people actually have the opportunity to get an objective reading on a dynamometer, so use seat of the pants estimates (give each mod a number based on your experience and what you paid). Include any mods I have left out.

 

How about an $80 cam from Super stock industries or Summit? That you will most certainly feel more than any muffler, or white guages!

 

Well, when you're loaded with the green stuff, spending it frivoulously sure seems to be easy to do!

I'm trying not to stoop to name calling, and don't want to start a flame war. So i'll end our differences here, I'm always right!! I can't be wrong, because I'm infallible!!! Just admit it, it's easier on both of us that way :P


[This message has been edited by 84TransAm (edited January 31, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by 84TransAm (edited January 31, 2001).]

 

84TA are you Cheech on the chat room? If so then it's cool I understand your a newbie to the game but if your not.......IDIOT!

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

Hehe, took u awhile on that 1 chief!

 

CamaroMike,
Did you always know everything ? Even guys with experience have opinions on what is worth it and what isn't. I wouldn't blow $50 on plugs either, but am I an Idiot? NOPE ! Take a valium and remember that a certification doesn't make you GOD!

------------------
1986 IROC LG4 "Bone Stock" (for now)

 

Sorry, I just see the same old questions time after time after time after time! I get really frustrated when I see the same questions all year long and people buying into the hype/ignorance or bashing something they have no experience with. I try to only speak out on things in which I have direct experience through alot of blood sweat and money. I try to keep people from making the same mistakes but not many listen. Not trying to be a **** but when someone calls another a fool for buying a product that they think does not have value based on an uneducated opinion I get erked.

------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

 

Hey CamaroMike, since you're so smart, maybe you can tell me how the +4s expose the flame kernel any better than a regular plug in a SBC. Please, i'm dying to know.
Oh, thats right, it doesn't. In fact, you can't even effectively INDEX the plugs, which is what you are describing, since there will always ben a electrode blocking the flame front no matter how you install it. Unlike a regular plug, where you can easily index it so that the open face is towards the exhuast valve and the ground electrode is on a perpendicular plane with the motion of the piston and the compressed gas. The +4 on the other hand will always have it's open facepointing on that perpendicular plane (which isn't bad), but inevitably one of those 4 electrodes will occlude the compresssed gases from getting effective use of the spark by shadowing the center elctrode. I guess if it was PERFECTLY installed you could have a window facing down between a pair of those 4 electrodes, but it would require more precision than necessary for a regular plug. That seems really stupid to me, since regular plugs are 1/4 (or less, don't price gimmick plugs often) the cost a +4 and will ignite the spark just as well. And the fact that most serious performance engines don't run platinum plugs because of their greater tendency to retain heat causing detonation. And if you don't believe that statement, just look to the power adder forum on ANY message board and you'll see that noone advocates platinum plugs.
And dyno results or not, maybe that one particular engine/installation ended up with a slightly better indexing than stock style plugs provided.
Hey if you wanna spend money on gimmick plugs, go to war. But don't go calling anyone stupid for not buying into their hype. For any theory you can espouse for their benefits, i'll give you two reasons why they suck.
...ed

ps...all bets are off on OHC and some small engine designs that thread in from the top, which obviously the +4 is perfect for.

 

Hey Ed i'm tired of typing and you obviously know more than me. I am humbled please forgive me! I thought my case was stated earlier. My typing must be blurry. I will never post again..................

BTW When I say shroud I mean towards the center of the combustion chamber not to the sides of the plug.
------------------
84 Camaro ZZ4 with HOT cam. 1.88 60' (12.98 @ 105MPH E.T.)
Other Mods: You name it and I have probably changed it.

2001 Dodge Ram Quad Cab 5.9L 4*2

ASE Certified Auto Tech
LIVE AND DIE BY THE ALMIGHTY BOWTIE!

[This message has been edited by CamaroMike (edited February 01, 2001).]

 

See! That's why i don't recommend the +4's. Most of the people who ask 4 them drive a pos Cutlass Ciera from the late 80's anyway.

Seems i know a little bit, obviously not too much...
------------------
--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
RPO codes point to Recaro version
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series

[This message has been edited by 84TransAm (edited February 01, 2001).]

 

So I guess we've ruled out the chance of me winning a cool guy award by buying those plugs huh? I could buy a new ECM to fix the bad ground or what ever the **** is wrong with it..that's gay though..I'd rather spend it on going faster than my eclipse friend. Ignorance is bless eh? Or maybe I should do the whole general tune up idea..I bet the O2 sensor and Fuel Filter are ancient..I wish you could get a main seal fixed for 100 bucks..thanks fellas

------------------
-Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
-Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
-Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
-Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
-Accel U-Groove Plugs
-Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
-Hypertech Chip
-Hypertech Airfoil
-Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
-Gutted Air Box
-Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
-Best 60' 2.17

 

Yarnboy,

FWIW, I cast my vote for K&N, a new set of plugs, a fuel filter, and a bottle of Zaino Z1.

 

No snake oil..80 percent of the lubrication in my car is snake oil..It's cheaper than staying on top of the leak Mobil 1! That stuff's for your injectors isn't it? I dunno what I am talking about..thanks for the reply though!

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17

 

Not to get too far off topic, but over 20 years ago, OMC (Johnson/Evinrude outboards) used surface gap plugs that operated on the same principle as the +4 plugs. Eventually, they realized that those plugs sucked and went back to using regular ol' plugs in their 2-cycle outboards.

 

You mean Zaino? It's car polish.

 

Car polish eh? Hhahaha..I see..hmm..I guess I was think of like Zmax or whatever..doesn't some crap a Z in it? Oh well..I'll look into that..I am not sure if their is paint left under the dirt though..it's worth a shot I guess..thanks!

------------------

• Red '88 IROC 5 Speed 305 TPI w/3.08
• Dual Friction Centerforce Clutch
• Accel 300+ Racing Ignition
• Accel 300+ Pro Sleeve Plug Wires
• Accel U-Groove Plugs
• Flowmaster Force II 3 Chamber Cat Back Exhaust
• Hypertech Chip
• Hypertech Airfoil
• Removed, Then Re-installed (out of fear) MAF Screens
• Gutted Air Box
• Best E/T 14.686, 60' 2.205, 1/8th mile 9.461, 1/4 MPH 93.91
• Best 60' 2.17

 

well it looks like we've about beat this dead horse into the ground enough. if anyone wants to continue it feel free to repost and see where it goes.
yarnboy, it might be a smart move to do a search before posting what is a very common and general question that as mike pointed out comes up about once a week.
mike don't go away
for that matter everyone play nice this is a great site and we all want you to stop by and visit often. thanks

------------------
ICON Motorsports

1st & 3rd