So many problems
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2000
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From: Raleigh, NC, USA
So many problems
so few charges of c4 to fix them with.
Okay.. This might get lengthy.
1. My car overheats. Never quite into the red, but it's normal running temperature is between 230 and 240. It looks like someone's cut the wires and taped different ones onto the fan wires, so I'm thinking someone put a high temperature fan switch in for some retarded reason. Antifreeze looks fine, radiator is clean, water pump works great, thermostat opens fine. However, there is a little issue of me not having an air dam, but that would just keep it running normal temperatures while cruising. (I know that's something I have to get replaced, but shouldn't the temperature be moderated at a lower range?)
2. Electrical system. Recently I had to replace an alternator because the bearings came out the back of it and the shaft locked up. The new (and old) one worked great up until the car's temperature climbed past 220. Then it seems that every little thing was a major powerdrain on the alternator. Sometimes turn signals would drop the voltage by 2 volts. The fan, when it finally did come on, nearly put the alternator from 13 into the red before making it's climb back up. And sometimes the gauge just hovers around 10.5 volts, way too low for the longevity of the alternator in my opinion. And when the fan comes on, should it be such a shock to the system that it starts idling roughly?
3. Knock. Engine's running fine at 8* BTDC up until it gets past 220*. WHen it climbs to 240 it knocks like crazy. It'll behave the same what when the timing's set to 0* TDC.
4. There's a hole in my radiator overflow tank. It looks like a rock hit it at high velocities. heh I know that's absurd though as it'd be really odd to have a high-velocity rock manage to make it's way under the hood. (Maybe a previous owner was driving down a dirt road behind an 18 wheeler with the hood off? heh) Anyways, it doesn't cause too much of a problem (Or maybe it does?). However, when I shut the car off right before the fan comes on (around 240*), I hear a strange, almost moaning sound for a bit. I've yet to discover exactly where it's coming from. Also, in the overflow tank, the radiator fluid bubbles into it, and after the moaning sound stops a bunch of vapor comes out of the overflow tank, enough to be seen in the daytime with the hood closed. (When people ask about it I usually tell them my car has indegestion.) I realize the high temperatures play a part here, but could this also be caused by a faulty radiator cap and/or the hole in the reserve tank?
5. The doors look like they're sagging a little. The passenger side door is rather hard to open, and it doesn't seem to quite line up properly. Are there any easy ways to adjust this? Or any good technical articles describing how to do so? Air leaks in rather excessively around the front, and there's a gap at the rear of the window. I was going to just adjust the windows, but then I noticed the entire door looks like it's off, so I'd rather try to fix the door before I made any adjustments to the window.
6. I've got one of those automatic trunk pull-down latches. Or whatever it's called. Anyways, when I got the car the engine had died, locked up in a half-open position, so the trunk didn't close all the way. So, in all my infinate wisdom, I take apart the thing to see if I can't fix it. I end up completely shattering every plastic component in that engine and accomplishing nothing. Well, I did blow a fuse when I tried to plug two things together that weren't supposed to go together. heh So now it's got no motor, and the trunk just kind of bobs around on the latch, which fortunately is on a track that has an upper limit, or I'd have to tie it down. Anyways.. If anybody's scrapping out a car for parts and has one of these, let me know how much you're willing to sell it for. heh.
7. Back to the engine. This problem persists regardless of the temperature. My car has VERY good low-rpm torque. Problem is, the engine gets rather pathetic in the higher rpm's. It's nice when I'm at a stoplight to be able to snap my unsuspecting passenger's heads back into the headrests, but that feeling only lasts for a second or two. Above 2500rpm's or so it dies off. The engine has no problem reving up, in fact it does that rather quickly when in neutral. The engine also has no problem getting up to any speed, and never sputters or runs roughly while accelerating. There's just a major lack of power in the upper RPM range. If this helps any, my timing's set to 8* BTDC. A friend of mine with the same engine in it has his timing 4* ATDC. (Yes, retarded.) His powerband seems to be opposite of mine. Is this a product of timing, or .. well, I won't even begin to guess as to what else would cause it.
8. Occasionally when I come to a stop, the car cuts off. Then when I try to restart it, it'll rev up for a bit, then die back off, regardless of whether or not I give it gas. (It helps, but sometimes I can't get the right amount of gas.) The engine will usually turn over, rev up to the usual 1500-2000 initial rpm's, drop down to <500, and go back and forth a bit before dying. It'll do this several times before finally staying started. It's never completely refused to start, it's just annoying. Also, occasionally when coming to a stop, instead of the rpm's dropping smoothly, they'll drop in little steps. Assuming that the gauge is working properly, and it really IS stepping, does this sound like an IAC/TPS issue?
I haven't been able to do a compression test as I don't have the tool, so I couldn't say if there was anything wrong there. I did recently change my spark plugs, and all of them had (I'm glad to say) the normal color and wear patterns.
Transmission is new, alternator is new, k&n filtercharger with a Weiland open element air filter, oil was changed about 1500 miles ago, differential fluid has probably never been changed, and I've yet to change the fuel filter. I'm slowly making my way through the just-bought-a-used-car tuneup described before.
Any help would be, of course, appreciated.
------------------
89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else
Okay.. This might get lengthy.
1. My car overheats. Never quite into the red, but it's normal running temperature is between 230 and 240. It looks like someone's cut the wires and taped different ones onto the fan wires, so I'm thinking someone put a high temperature fan switch in for some retarded reason. Antifreeze looks fine, radiator is clean, water pump works great, thermostat opens fine. However, there is a little issue of me not having an air dam, but that would just keep it running normal temperatures while cruising. (I know that's something I have to get replaced, but shouldn't the temperature be moderated at a lower range?)
2. Electrical system. Recently I had to replace an alternator because the bearings came out the back of it and the shaft locked up. The new (and old) one worked great up until the car's temperature climbed past 220. Then it seems that every little thing was a major powerdrain on the alternator. Sometimes turn signals would drop the voltage by 2 volts. The fan, when it finally did come on, nearly put the alternator from 13 into the red before making it's climb back up. And sometimes the gauge just hovers around 10.5 volts, way too low for the longevity of the alternator in my opinion. And when the fan comes on, should it be such a shock to the system that it starts idling roughly?
3. Knock. Engine's running fine at 8* BTDC up until it gets past 220*. WHen it climbs to 240 it knocks like crazy. It'll behave the same what when the timing's set to 0* TDC.
4. There's a hole in my radiator overflow tank. It looks like a rock hit it at high velocities. heh I know that's absurd though as it'd be really odd to have a high-velocity rock manage to make it's way under the hood. (Maybe a previous owner was driving down a dirt road behind an 18 wheeler with the hood off? heh) Anyways, it doesn't cause too much of a problem (Or maybe it does?). However, when I shut the car off right before the fan comes on (around 240*), I hear a strange, almost moaning sound for a bit. I've yet to discover exactly where it's coming from. Also, in the overflow tank, the radiator fluid bubbles into it, and after the moaning sound stops a bunch of vapor comes out of the overflow tank, enough to be seen in the daytime with the hood closed. (When people ask about it I usually tell them my car has indegestion.) I realize the high temperatures play a part here, but could this also be caused by a faulty radiator cap and/or the hole in the reserve tank?
5. The doors look like they're sagging a little. The passenger side door is rather hard to open, and it doesn't seem to quite line up properly. Are there any easy ways to adjust this? Or any good technical articles describing how to do so? Air leaks in rather excessively around the front, and there's a gap at the rear of the window. I was going to just adjust the windows, but then I noticed the entire door looks like it's off, so I'd rather try to fix the door before I made any adjustments to the window.
6. I've got one of those automatic trunk pull-down latches. Or whatever it's called. Anyways, when I got the car the engine had died, locked up in a half-open position, so the trunk didn't close all the way. So, in all my infinate wisdom, I take apart the thing to see if I can't fix it. I end up completely shattering every plastic component in that engine and accomplishing nothing. Well, I did blow a fuse when I tried to plug two things together that weren't supposed to go together. heh So now it's got no motor, and the trunk just kind of bobs around on the latch, which fortunately is on a track that has an upper limit, or I'd have to tie it down. Anyways.. If anybody's scrapping out a car for parts and has one of these, let me know how much you're willing to sell it for. heh.
7. Back to the engine. This problem persists regardless of the temperature. My car has VERY good low-rpm torque. Problem is, the engine gets rather pathetic in the higher rpm's. It's nice when I'm at a stoplight to be able to snap my unsuspecting passenger's heads back into the headrests, but that feeling only lasts for a second or two. Above 2500rpm's or so it dies off. The engine has no problem reving up, in fact it does that rather quickly when in neutral. The engine also has no problem getting up to any speed, and never sputters or runs roughly while accelerating. There's just a major lack of power in the upper RPM range. If this helps any, my timing's set to 8* BTDC. A friend of mine with the same engine in it has his timing 4* ATDC. (Yes, retarded.) His powerband seems to be opposite of mine. Is this a product of timing, or .. well, I won't even begin to guess as to what else would cause it.
8. Occasionally when I come to a stop, the car cuts off. Then when I try to restart it, it'll rev up for a bit, then die back off, regardless of whether or not I give it gas. (It helps, but sometimes I can't get the right amount of gas.) The engine will usually turn over, rev up to the usual 1500-2000 initial rpm's, drop down to <500, and go back and forth a bit before dying. It'll do this several times before finally staying started. It's never completely refused to start, it's just annoying. Also, occasionally when coming to a stop, instead of the rpm's dropping smoothly, they'll drop in little steps. Assuming that the gauge is working properly, and it really IS stepping, does this sound like an IAC/TPS issue?
I haven't been able to do a compression test as I don't have the tool, so I couldn't say if there was anything wrong there. I did recently change my spark plugs, and all of them had (I'm glad to say) the normal color and wear patterns.
Transmission is new, alternator is new, k&n filtercharger with a Weiland open element air filter, oil was changed about 1500 miles ago, differential fluid has probably never been changed, and I've yet to change the fuel filter. I'm slowly making my way through the just-bought-a-used-car tuneup described before.
Any help would be, of course, appreciated.
------------------
89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else
Guest
Posts: n/a
1. I'd start with replacing the airdam. But normally the fans dont kick on until around 230, so 220-230 is the normal operating temp. Too hot IMO. 190-200 should be about the max temp I would set it up for.
2. Could be a weak battery. Check the grounds and terminals too, make sure they are clean and tight.
3. The temperature does that. You probably have some carbon buildup too, which doesnt help. I hear GM Top Engine cleaner works good for carbon buildup. So does a mist of water while the engine is running if you wanna try that. A spray bottle and very little water works good.
4. Yea, temp again. Replacing your radiator cap probably isnt a bad idea either.
5. Theres no easy way. The bushings are probably dead, which would be the first step. Those are small bushings made of brass, made by numerous companies. Ive never done it, but two people and lots of patience would be a good idea. Dont adjust the doors until you check and/or replace those. Thats more than likely most or all of the problem right there.
6. Have fun with that one.
7. Hard to say. 4ATDC is definitely wrong. Tuned up recently? Fuel filter? Also, the cat if it has one could be clogged, or some sort of other exhaust restriction.
8. Its IAC/TPS or something really out of tune. A clogged cat could cause this as well.
Sounds like you have a whole bunch of problems. I would suggest a complete tune up if you havent already, and the fuel filter. Check to see if the balancer wobbles. If it does, it may have slipped and thats a timing problem then too. The overheating problems could be the cause of many of the symptoms you have. Get the airdam, and a switch to turn on the fans at a lower temp. Theres a tech article on how to do that. I'd also get the GM top engine cleaner and use that, clean up the TB, and hopefully get some of the carbon out of the engine. If you have access to a vaccum gauge, hook it up and read it. Slowly rev the engine up to 3000, and see if it drops or rises. If it drops 1-2", could have a clogged cat on there.
[This message has been edited by madmax (edited February 03, 2001).]
2. Could be a weak battery. Check the grounds and terminals too, make sure they are clean and tight.
3. The temperature does that. You probably have some carbon buildup too, which doesnt help. I hear GM Top Engine cleaner works good for carbon buildup. So does a mist of water while the engine is running if you wanna try that. A spray bottle and very little water works good.
4. Yea, temp again. Replacing your radiator cap probably isnt a bad idea either.
5. Theres no easy way. The bushings are probably dead, which would be the first step. Those are small bushings made of brass, made by numerous companies. Ive never done it, but two people and lots of patience would be a good idea. Dont adjust the doors until you check and/or replace those. Thats more than likely most or all of the problem right there.
6. Have fun with that one.
7. Hard to say. 4ATDC is definitely wrong. Tuned up recently? Fuel filter? Also, the cat if it has one could be clogged, or some sort of other exhaust restriction.
8. Its IAC/TPS or something really out of tune. A clogged cat could cause this as well.
Sounds like you have a whole bunch of problems. I would suggest a complete tune up if you havent already, and the fuel filter. Check to see if the balancer wobbles. If it does, it may have slipped and thats a timing problem then too. The overheating problems could be the cause of many of the symptoms you have. Get the airdam, and a switch to turn on the fans at a lower temp. Theres a tech article on how to do that. I'd also get the GM top engine cleaner and use that, clean up the TB, and hopefully get some of the carbon out of the engine. If you have access to a vaccum gauge, hook it up and read it. Slowly rev the engine up to 3000, and see if it drops or rises. If it drops 1-2", could have a clogged cat on there.
[This message has been edited by madmax (edited February 03, 2001).]
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 88
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From: THE LAND OF F-BODIES
i would make a good guess that you have a clogged catylictic(typo)converter., i had a
grand-am with a quad-4 in it and had the sme problem. wouldn't make any power past 3000rpm
and if i pushed it it would overheat bad. also had an 86 iroc-z with the same problem. if you can get the joint apart where the y-pipe hooks onto the cat you will probably be able to look inside and see it all melted.
------------------
have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
grand-am with a quad-4 in it and had the sme problem. wouldn't make any power past 3000rpm
and if i pushed it it would overheat bad. also had an 86 iroc-z with the same problem. if you can get the joint apart where the y-pipe hooks onto the cat you will probably be able to look inside and see it all melted.
------------------
have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 19,660
Likes: 311
Enkil,
If you can hook up with Duffster, he is a self-educated expert on rear hatch pulldown/release units.
Replace the air dam and overflow bottle.
It wouldn't hurt to clean the IAC and set minimum air position, TPS. It never does hurt. However, be aware that the target idle speed gets lower as the coolant temperature increases. This has the added effect of loading the alternator more to try to make current to run the ecooling fans, etc.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
If you can hook up with Duffster, he is a self-educated expert on rear hatch pulldown/release units.
Replace the air dam and overflow bottle.
It wouldn't hurt to clean the IAC and set minimum air position, TPS. It never does hurt. However, be aware that the target idle speed gets lower as the coolant temperature increases. This has the added effect of loading the alternator more to try to make current to run the ecooling fans, etc.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
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