I got it out!!
I got it out!!
I got the engine OUT of the engine bay in my 91 RS... hooray... i was going to just rebuild the crank assembly (bearings, etc..) and fix whatever is damaged, but when i removed the engine, the entire block was rusted VERY badly on the outside, and i noticed a considerably large dent in the bottom of my oilpan (near the drainplug)... that and it is not the original engine, it is a block from a junkyard (I checked the ID #'s written on the side of the block)... im not really sure if i want to rebuild it considering i have NO idea how many miles are actually on it, or how long it will last due to the rust damage. During the removal, i also noticed that all of my vacuum lines are original, and due to age, they have since deteriorated... do I get new ones from local auto parts store or do I have to go somewhere more GM oriented? and one last thing... the poor baby has been sitting for almost 7 months w/ an empty tank of gas (thank ***..), replacing all the fluids, filters and most the hoses is the obvious thing to do, but what else should I do to ensure a good run when i get the new motor swapped in?
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,322
Likes: 1
From: Bloomingdale,IL
Car: 91 RS
Engine: 305 Tbi (L03)
Transmission: 700r4
Some rust on the outside of the engine isnt going to hurt anything. Vacuum lines can be picked up an any auto parts store. Id try to get all of the fuel i could out of tank before i put new fuel in and started it.
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Derby, NY, 14047
Car: 71 Skylark
Engine: BBB-430
Transmission: M20
The motor needs a complete tear down. if you don't know anything about it, how do you know what size it is. I'm assuming its a SBC, so you could have yourself a 307 or something less desirable. If you spun a rod, that rod needs to be resized, that means pulling it out, which requires pulling the heads. you might just as well take the whole block to a machine shop to get speced out. then you make your decisions. Pull your heads, and pis-tones out and see what ya got. you might get away with a quick re-ring and crank kit. the machine shop will tell you that.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,743
Likes: 0
From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by 430T/A
The motor needs a complete tear down. if you don't know anything about it, how do you know what size it is. I'm assuming its a SBC, so you could have yourself a 307 or something less desirable.
The motor needs a complete tear down. if you don't know anything about it, how do you know what size it is. I'm assuming its a SBC, so you could have yourself a 307 or something less desirable.
Or run the casting # on the block if its a sbc...look here..see pic of dead 327.....
run the 3 at www.mortec.com
TGO Supporter
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 9,067
Likes: 1
From: Saskatoon, SK, Canada
Car: '83 Z28, '07 Charger SRT8
Engine: 454ci, 6.1 Hemi
Transmission: TH350, A5
Axle/Gears: 2.73 posi, 3.06 posi
If it isn't original, its a good excuse to get yourself a 350. If you are gonna spend all that money on rebuilding an engine, why waste it on something like a 305 or 307?
Plus, I've noticed that some parts neccessary for a rebuild on a 305 (ie. pistons) actually cost MORE than a set for a 350 do.
Plus, I've noticed that some parts neccessary for a rebuild on a 305 (ie. pistons) actually cost MORE than a set for a 350 do.
exactly... the guy i bought it from lied to me on several occasions... the car was "Stock to the paint" except the exhaust and obviously thats not the case... He also said that the only problems with it was the windows dont like to roll up all the way... but thats the only thing that does work... almost ALL of my vacuum lines need to be replaced... im going to get a 350 with a good block for now, considering I cant get one with good heads because you cant pass smog with good heads ;-) i will upgrade everything around passing smog, and by the time im done with all that, i shouldnt have to pass smog anymore! thanks guys
and yes, i know it is a sbc, but which one? deffinately not a 350... prolly a 305 or 307.. i mean i raced an 84 jeep cherokee and almost lost... and that was with a chip that took off my mph limiter any my catback exhaust...
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Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
From: Derby, NY, 14047
Car: 71 Skylark
Engine: BBB-430
Transmission: M20
Originally posted by SchwarzCamaroRS
and yes, i know it is a sbc, but which one? deffinately not a 350... prolly a 305 or 307.. i mean i raced an 84 jeep cherokee and almost lost... and that was with a chip that took off my mph limiter any my catback exhaust...
and yes, i know it is a sbc, but which one? deffinately not a 350... prolly a 305 or 307.. i mean i raced an 84 jeep cherokee and almost lost... and that was with a chip that took off my mph limiter any my catback exhaust...
well, it is still a piece... im buying a new one because it will last longer guaranteed... ill upgrade later... i want the assurance that it will work properly the 1st time... im tired of not having a car...
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 623
Likes: 0
From: Point Marion PA.
Car: 1982 CAMARO;
Engine: 1985 LB9;
Transmission: T-5/
For Stock Or modified Crate Engines Check Out SDPC2000.com I have a 1985 So my TPI intake Will fit on Pre Vortec Engines So I am going to go with a Brand New (not remanufactured) 250Hp 4Bolt 350 LongBlock $1300.00 With a Warranty. Bolt on Intake Bolt in Car, Hook up Tranny, Check Fluids and go. I am doing this Because most of the crate engines didn't have what I wanted and no sense in paying $3000.00 For something with a little better cam and Factory aluminum heads when I will Just Be replacing them With a better cam a a set Of AFR heads a year later.
Here is a pic of the engine for $1300
Here is a pic of the engine for $1300
Last edited by MTPFI-MAF; Feb 18, 2004 at 02:38 AM.
Originally posted by MTPFI-MAF
For Stock Or modified Crate Engines Check Out SDPC2000.com I have a 1985 So my TPI intake Will fit on Pre Vortec Engines So I am going to go with a Brand New (not remanufactured) 250Hp 4Bolt 350 LongBlock $1300.00 With a Warranty. Bolt on Intake Bolt in Car, Hook up Tranny, Check Fluids and go. I am doing this Because most of the crate engines didn't have what I wanted and no sense in paying $3000.00 For something with a little better cam and Factory aluminum heads when I will Just Be replacing them With a better cam a a set Of AFR heads a year later.
Here is a pic of the engine for $1300
For Stock Or modified Crate Engines Check Out SDPC2000.com I have a 1985 So my TPI intake Will fit on Pre Vortec Engines So I am going to go with a Brand New (not remanufactured) 250Hp 4Bolt 350 LongBlock $1300.00 With a Warranty. Bolt on Intake Bolt in Car, Hook up Tranny, Check Fluids and go. I am doing this Because most of the crate engines didn't have what I wanted and no sense in paying $3000.00 For something with a little better cam and Factory aluminum heads when I will Just Be replacing them With a better cam a a set Of AFR heads a year later.
Here is a pic of the engine for $1300
And the 85 TPI computer is going to have fits with that engine (I switched to a 165 and burned my own chips for it)
A cam kit from Summit would run you around $80 is a very good investment for the engine. See if you can get some 64cc heads for it to get the CR up to 9.5:1 (came out to 9.59:1 in mine with TFS heads with 64cc's)
That engine is a good base for building a nice engine, just needs a little waking up.
i was going to buy the one that doesnt require a pre 85 flywheel/intake... this one is the one i was looking at... i wouldnt have to do anything but swap all my old parts over... i was told that this is engine is a hunk of crap, but as long as it is new, can be upgraded, and will get my car running, I really dont care what someone says
Reason # 1: "This engine is also commonly used in 1987-92 Camaro and Firebird cars with TPI as a replacement for the original 305 or 350 engine." That means that its not difficult to put into one of our 3rdgens... You cant advertise lies, its against the law
Reason # 2: "Every Goodwrench engine is made to the same engineering standards that go into every new GM vehicle. They're tested to perform under the most demanding conditions, assuring you the reliability and quality you expect from the Goodwrench name and they're backed by a 36-month/50,000 mile transferable limited warranty .
Reason # 3: ITS EASY... i can use my stock intake manifold, my stock throttle body (with larger injectors), My stock ecm (with new burned prom) and all the other accessories (a/c, water pump, oil pump, etc...)
Reason # 4: I live in beautifully restrictive Southern California... home of the dumbest smog laws EVER... so i do need this engine to be equipped with the proper smog equipment... and it needs to pass....

that block is plenty good enough to modify.. get some better heads, a better cam and better intake/tbi unit and ill be in business...
Reason # 2: "Every Goodwrench engine is made to the same engineering standards that go into every new GM vehicle. They're tested to perform under the most demanding conditions, assuring you the reliability and quality you expect from the Goodwrench name and they're backed by a 36-month/50,000 mile transferable limited warranty .

Reason # 3: ITS EASY... i can use my stock intake manifold, my stock throttle body (with larger injectors), My stock ecm (with new burned prom) and all the other accessories (a/c, water pump, oil pump, etc...)

Reason # 4: I live in beautifully restrictive Southern California... home of the dumbest smog laws EVER... so i do need this engine to be equipped with the proper smog equipment... and it needs to pass....

that block is plenty good enough to modify.. get some better heads, a better cam and better intake/tbi unit and ill be in business...



