I am contemplating doing a cam swap. I have my TPI intake off for porting right now. How much more do I have to do to gain access to the cam? And how do I keep the timing cover seal from leaking where it meets the oil pan? thanx

------------------
91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter

Built on Wednesday

 

I have never done this but I think you will have to remove the radiator. Also, I believe the oil pan must be emptied and unbolted to remove the timing cover.

 

Well I just finished an in car cam swap, and let me tell you, you got a way to go. You'll need to remove valve covers, rockers out of the way, push rods, lifters, water pump, radiator, timing cover and chain, and some bending of the cross bars in front of the radiator. Not to mention if the have air con. And the $75 in gaskets, but it was worth I hope. I'm not tell you not to do it but it is sum time and effort. As for the oil leak just do everything right and you dont have to worry about it.

------------------
87 Z28 305 TPI, Auto, LT-1 cam (peanut is history), roller timing set, 2.73, Gutted air boxes, K & N fillters, SLP Airfoil, AFPR, Dyno Max 3" cat back, Accel 8.8 mm spirals, Accel cap and rotor, Accel coil, rapid fires, and 170* Stat.
Old Best 15.414 @ 87.47.

 

It's not that hard. Like stated everything must come off the front of the engine, radiator as well. The A/C compressor I just unbolted and used some wire to hold it over out of the way. The A/C condenser I just pulled out and had someone hold up and out of the way while I slid the cam out and the new one in. The X brace on my IROC I just bent out of the way. On my 87Z I had to take out the bolts to get enough clearance to get the cam out for some reason.

For the oil pan/timing chain cover setup, my 86 had a one piece gasket, not the newer two piece stuff w/ the seperate strip for the front of the timing cover. I couldn't get the SOB back on w/ that one piece gasket (without lowering the oil pan). So what I did was cut it off at the opening for the timing chain cover and use the standard replacement piece w/ some permatex to make sure it didn't leak. I don't see any reason not to do that. I've had that cam in there for quite a long time now and haven't had the first drop of oil leak out of it. It's nothing major, you can handle it easily IMO.

Sure will be interesting to see if you have the peanut or not if you take it out.

------------------
Ray87Z
-Vortec headed 350.
86 IROC w/ a cammed 305 TPI.
Formerly Ray86IROC.
www.inter-scape.com/Ray



[This message has been edited by Ray87Z (edited February 06, 2001).]

 

http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/proc/caminst.htm

------------------
Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, flow tech headers on the way,
engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...

 

It's not bad. It's a weekend job if you have the proper pullers/installers. The rad and a/c condensor will have to come out and the x braces in front of them will have to be unbolted. I think there is no reason to unbolt the oil pan.I have no idea why people say that. Make sure you use the proper seal under the timing cover. I didn't and I hate myself for it.

------------------
82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter