I was wondering what you guys thought of Prolong engine treatment, and also ZMax. Prolong is 20 just of the Engine Treatment, ZMax is 40 giving you engine, fuel, trans, and small engine treatment? I got the prolong for free and was wondering what to expect. I use Mobil 1 oil and filter. 305 TBI.

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Rick
90 Camaro RS 305 TBI
400 small block, Hooker 1 3/4 LTs, Random Tech Cat, Hooker aero chamber cat back on the way!!
TH700-R4 with Trans-Go shift kit (corvette servo here...but not installed yet)
MacEwen Motorsports White Gauge Overlays
14" K&N X-Stream Open Element
GTS Headlight and Taillight covers
5% Limo Tint all around
Classic White Chevy Bowtie sticker on rear window
http://www.geocities.com/esvalenz

Man if my camaro were a rice-rocket all those mods would give me what...easily 50-60 hp!!!

"Just because I've done it, doesn't mean I knew what I was doing!" - Me

 

I wouldn't expect anything.


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82 camaro--original steering wheel, brake/gas pedals, seats--everything else modified
82camaro

 

As a previous Store Manager for Checker Auto Parts, we had a rep from Prolong come in to give a demonstration. He said get a glass of water, put a bolt in it, pour some Prolong in there, and watch the Prolong attract itself to the medal bolt. We let this sit overnight, didn't do a damn thing.

You are using Mobil 1 now, thats good enough.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF
Ported Plenum
TB Bypass

 

not worth the damage it can do, don't use it.
i have even heard that some aftermarket engine remanufactures won't warranty the engines if they find that stuff in there.

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have a beat to hell 87 GTA 305ci 700r4
t-tops,recaro,honeycomb wheels,digital dash
paid $600 at a junkyard for it (i had to save it)

 

Well, I'll join the "don't do it" crowd...

I would stay away from any addatives.

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ASE Mechanic/Machinist/Smog Tech

1999 NBM Trans Am
1986 Chevy 3/4 ton pick up
1981 corvette
1995 Kawi ZX6R

GO #3

 

If you're running Mobil 1 already, the addition of any other chemicals would be like pissin' in your wife's good perfume. All that stuff is snake-oil, plain and simple.

 

I use Prolong in my *GASP* Toyota Camry right now (I'm saving up for a Camaro, I'm 17, give me a break) and I don't think it did **** to tell you the truth. But if I was a *****, like half the kids at my school, I could say it gave me 23 hp when I installed it with my aluminum can intake and 5" exhaust and racing stripes and 20 fog lights and 15" subs and.....oops, I got started on ricers again didn't I

[This message has been edited by TonyC (edited February 07, 2001).]

 

Ive seen engines go 250,000 miles using conventional motor oil with no additives. Reagular oil changes is the key.

 

I'd also like to know,I got a new long block from NECO (new england engine co.),I know stock,sigh.....laugh all you want. I'd like to convert it to mobile one if they ok it,I'll ask them about slick 50 and stuff like that,it doesn't say anything in my warranty about it,but thats no excuse..

'84 trans am 5.0 HO,700r4 slop-box,3.73

mods: K&N air fil/air silencer delete,
headman 1 5/8" shortys,high flow cat,borla cat back
torque converter lock-up switch (A-F on the ALDL interface)
rad. fan bypass switch (emergency only,police evasion,sensor failure ect.)

plans for the near future: six speed conversion/JET chip/100%high end suspension upgrade including rims and fat skins all for the handling!

"it's not the dogballs under the hood that count,talk sht if your still next to me after the next sharp curve...."

 

Those products are made with chlorinated paraffin. If you want to put waxy Chlorox in your engine, be my guest.

No oil manufacturer will back their product if you put any additives in it. Like the others said, stick with synthetic oil.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/LB9 block, ZZ3 cam and intake, WP 305 heads ported & polished, Hooker headers & y-pipe, hi-flow cat).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. 0.030 over 396, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" headers, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & shift kit, 3.08 10-bolt, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Best 15.1 @ 5800' Bandimere. Daily driver while Camaro was being put together.

 

oops...looks like the majority says NO. though...i DID get it for free....i already put in and was wondering what you guys thought. HONESTLY...i noticed a nice smooth idle and acceleration, it seems to accelerate better while cruising....like a new car....i could hardly tell i was goin 50;.....i was like whoa i gotta slow down. and its not the placebo either cuz my gfriend said "wow, the car is runnin good today" and she didnt know i put it in....then i told her....she said OOOH. anyways....it was free....it works ok....but i would not pay 20 for it.

 

I think I'd be doing an oil change tomorrow

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'87 RS 402 Big Block
'92 S-10 Blazer 4X4
'77 3/4T Chevy 4X4 P/U with 500 Cadillac
Qsac

 

sheeet...not with that oil. freekin 4.59 a quart....i just changed it 4 days ago. i doubt i went 3000 miles. plus this is the 305....maybe if it were the 400....but not on the 305....its got a iron stomach...it can handle it.

 

In the words of Bobby Bouchers mom "additives are the devil". Ok that wasn't funny. I would never contaminate my oil with anything. Well except tranny fluid minutes before an oil change but that is a whole 'nother can of worms.

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82 z28 350cid, vortec heads, comp 262h cam, Holley 600cfm carb, 2in twice pipes, MSD ignition, turbo 350 trans, 3.73 posi, manly b&m megashifter

 

BB,

Hopefully, the poison you dumped in won't ruin the synthetic oil. Full synthetic is the best thing you can put in the case, and nothing else.

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Later,
Vader
------------------
"I know how to solve your problem, but I can't tell
you since you might use the information illegally..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

ok....everyone has jumped on the band wagon...even vader. Most people give opinions....Vaders word is Fact. i hope all goes well with the oil. thanks guys. ill be sure to never do it again.

 

Time for an oil change maybe ??? LOL



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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported stock heads, XR270HR-10 cam, TES headers, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback, MSD ignition components, #24 SVO injectors, 1LE aluminum driveshaft.
Best ET 13.3@107 mph

Click here to see my car at Truspeed.org
Check out Truspeed
Check out the Bin Archive

 

no can do man....that would be 35 bucks down the drain. not including the oil filter. which i got on clearance for 3$. mobil 1 oil filter.

 

BB,

You probably won't cause any harm with the additive - probably. I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over it.

On the other hand, as long as you are already using synthetic engine oil (you can't do any better than that) I wouldn't waste any money on additives. Since you got this sample for nothing, no loss yet. Just don't waste you money again.

As for the Mobil 1 costing you $4.59 a quart, try your local Wal-Mart for the five quart jugs. They usually retail at about $15.99 - $3.16 a quart. If you find it, stock up because it disappears fast (any wonder why?). It's one of the few things I go to Wal-Mart for. If you can't find that, many stores sell the oil for about $3.50 a quart, or $21.00 for a six pack.

If you ever wonder if it's all worth it, it is. I tore down a 110,000 mile 350 (LT1) and had a very hard time believing the measurements I took (several times, in fact). The WORST cylinders had 0.0004" ridge (4/10ths - barely measurable), worst taper, cyl #5 @ 0.0004" (4/10ths), worst T.I.R. cly #3 @ 0.0006" (6/10ths). Given that the factory manufacturing tolerances are -0/+.001, this engine was apparently pretty tight when built. The wear after all that mileage was still within the original factory BUILD tolerances, not the service limits. Needless to say, I'm a devout believer in synthetic engine oil and 3,000 mile changes.

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Later,
Vader
------------------
"I know how to solve your problem, but I can't tell
you since you might use the information illegally..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0