Need help I.D.ing this engine
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 379
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From: Johnstown, PA.
Car: Chevy Cobalt & Camaro
Engine: 2.2 DOHC/3.1
Transmission: Not so slushy slush box/Slush Box
Axle/Gears: Stock 3.23
Need help I.D.ing this engine
Hey I need some help. I am sick of having no power with the 6 banger. I am getting a 350 there is a guy that lives near me he has a 350 the was made after 1986 not from a F-body its in a truck he said he knows its from after 86 because it has a one piece seal and the valve cover bolts are in the middle of the valve covers. what engine could this be.. It has edelbrock intake and carb. its not blown but there is a wrist pin thats bad. He only wants $100 for it so let me know soon.
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Joined: Aug 1999
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From: Jackson County
i don't think i'd take it if it were free. how's he know it had a bad wrist pin, that's not something you know without looking and you can't look without taking the engine apart. i'd say it's got a noise and he's guessing.
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I can't quite see it clearly... can you hold it up a little closer to your monitor?
Seriously, if it came from a TBI truck, it's ... a TBI truck motor. The heads are some of the worst possible ones for performance. They are garbage.
Wrist pins don't just "go bad". People make up all sorts of stupid explanations why their motors are knocking whenever they're trying to sell them. Ignore all that. Most likely, if it's knocking, it needs a rod bearing. Doesn't really matter though; you'll be doing all the exact same things to it regardless.
It's a blown-up motor that needs to be rebuilt, no matter what excuse he gives for the noise. Basically it's the same thing you'd get at a junkyard if you scraped one up off the ground instead of paying $500 or whatever for a guaranteed-good one off the shelf.
$100 is about right for a destroyed core that needs everything. Expect to have to tear it down, get it bored, buy new pistons, have the crank turned, etc. etc. etc.; replace the heads and the cam; and of course do all the V8 swap things that your car will need. By the time you do all that, the difference between buying a junk trashed motor for $100 and buying a good useable one for $1000 will disappear into the mist. You may in fact find that you'll save money by spending more up fron on a motor that doesn't need a complete rebuild.
Seriously, if it came from a TBI truck, it's ... a TBI truck motor. The heads are some of the worst possible ones for performance. They are garbage.
Wrist pins don't just "go bad". People make up all sorts of stupid explanations why their motors are knocking whenever they're trying to sell them. Ignore all that. Most likely, if it's knocking, it needs a rod bearing. Doesn't really matter though; you'll be doing all the exact same things to it regardless.
It's a blown-up motor that needs to be rebuilt, no matter what excuse he gives for the noise. Basically it's the same thing you'd get at a junkyard if you scraped one up off the ground instead of paying $500 or whatever for a guaranteed-good one off the shelf.
$100 is about right for a destroyed core that needs everything. Expect to have to tear it down, get it bored, buy new pistons, have the crank turned, etc. etc. etc.; replace the heads and the cam; and of course do all the V8 swap things that your car will need. By the time you do all that, the difference between buying a junk trashed motor for $100 and buying a good useable one for $1000 will disappear into the mist. You may in fact find that you'll save money by spending more up fron on a motor that doesn't need a complete rebuild.
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