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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 07:04 PM
  #1  
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From: DFW
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G80 3.23
Stored codes

Ever since I first bought the car (91 Z28, 350) the check engine would come on after about 10 minutes of highway driving (i could drive in the city, stop and go all day long, no problems). But, in the past, it wouldnt store the codes. So I was totally clueless.

But recently I replaced the ECM and now it finally stores the codes. I pulled both a 32 and 46.
The car runs excellent even though these codes are present when driving.

46 is anti theft problem? I did have problems starting (car would not turn over at all) a week ago. I assume that is what this is.

32 is an EGR failure, correct? Any steps I should do to make sure?
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Old Mar 9, 2004 | 10:19 PM
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32 is an EGR failure, correct? Any steps I should do to make sure?
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 09:05 AM
  #3  
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From: DFW
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G80 3.23
Is it ok to drive it with the EGR acting up?

I have to drive about 300 miles (twice) within about a 10 day period. All highway miles, so I know the check engine light will be on the whole way.

My truck is overheating and not exactly running like a "reliable" TBI should be so I might have to take the car (next Monday).
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 02:35 PM
  #4  
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
Ive been pulling a code for the EGR ever since I bought my car, 8,000 miles I think it is now (i'm finally going to fix it when I go home for spring break). The EGR is just emmissions controll, so I don't see it hurting anything besides the enviroment (and I don't think anyone here cares about that) if it isn't working. From what ive read if it isn't working right you might loose a little performance but nothing serious or damaging. Alot of people who don't have to worry about emmissions just remove the thing, but that requires deleting it from your prom.

I guess its possible that somehow the EGR is causing overheating, but thats a new one to me. In any case, definatly fix whatever is causing it to overheat before you go driving it all over, thats not very good for it

I think the EGR should be fairly simple to diagnose, (there is a tech article on it in addition to what vader posted, also tons of stuff if you search). Overheating is usually a simple fix to, I wouldn't think it would take more than an hour or to to diagnose and fix both problems.

Look at the ignition key, you see the little chip on it? Thats an anti-theft system, called VATS which I have no idea what it stands for. Basically your car looks for a chip with a certain resistance (I think thats what it uses), if it finds if and the key fits it will start, if it doesn't find it, and the key fits I think it will just crank but not start. Which could explain your starting problem.

Last edited by PyRo9862; Mar 12, 2004 at 02:44 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 09:13 PM
  #5  
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From: DFW
Car: 1992 Z28
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: G80 3.23
Thanks for the info.
The overheating is actually my truck, not the camaro.

And on the VATS issue - there was one time, about a month or so ago, that it didnt start, so I just walked down the street to Scoggin Dickey for a few minutes (to go play that Onstar game), came back, and the car started up perfect.

I had read somewhere that the VATS resets after 20 mins. I guess this is why it started up when I got back?

Last edited by Pro; Mar 19, 2004 at 11:32 PM.
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 09:32 PM
  #6  
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From: Huntsville, Al
Car: ‘92 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.23
I've been having the same problem. Vader is a big help .
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Old Mar 12, 2004 | 09:40 PM
  #7  
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From: Long Island, New York
Car: 91RS
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Pro
I had read somewhere that the VMATS resets after 20 mins. I guess this is why it started up when I got back?
When it gets the wrong reistance or whatever I believe it just plain won't start for a a few minutes, I forget exactly how long.
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