Ward

iTrader: (1)

I got my steering aligned and my tires balanced about a month ago, and ever since then its seems to wander all over the road. It did it before, but I assumed it was due to the awful alignment. The car pulls differently depending on how level (or unlevel) the road is. Let me tell you its no fun driving down a bumpy asphalt road, I look like im drunk of my a$$. Also, when I hit the brakes, it pulls left, and if I hit them hard, it will damn near change lanes. Before the alignment it used to pull hard left, so im thinking maybe the brakes wore unevenly or something. The only front suspension piece I have replaced so far was my center link. Long story short, I want it to steer like a 2003, not an 83. :P

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1983 Pontiac Firebird SE
LG4-Based Chevy 400
700R4 Tansmission
Modified 4 Barrel Q-Jet Carb
Accel Super Stock 8mm Wires
Edelbrock Pro-Flo Air Cleaner
3.23 Posi Rear
14X7" Cragar SS/T Wheels
Clarion 45X4 CD/AM/FM Head Unit
100WX2 Amp
2 Pioneer 12" Subs in Custom Box
Third Gen Performance
"A four cylinder is only half an engine"

Vader

Ward,

Most reputable aligners will inspect the steering and suspension components before attempting an adjustment. They should have reported if anything was worn or damaged. Most will do this, but some don't. It won't hurt to double check their work.

Another trick that they will often do is to check the caster, camber, and if they are within tolerance "Set the toe and let it go". Some shops may not realize that there are different specifications for a standard 'F' body and a TA or IROC-Z. I always give the specificatiosn I want to the aligner and have them adjusted to that. This almost assures that they will center up the readings for caster and camber, rather than accept what is "close enough".

Take a close look at the idler arm. This is a weakness on our cars, since a lot of stress is placed on the idler and Pitmann arms. The Pitmann won't have any play unless the steering box is worn, and you can check the lash in the steering gearbox easily. Make sure the box is firmly bolted to the sub frame rail, and that the rail doesn't show any signs of stress cracks or tears in the metal. This is another weakness on any good-handling car. If the box is securely mounted, unlock the steering wheel and move the steering shaft while observing the Pitmann arm. There should be no lag, looseness, or dead spots. If there is noticable play, you can adjust it out to some extent.

Also look at the upper strut mounting bushings. These can wear, causing a correct alignment when the vehicle is stationary but adding a lot of variability under dynamic stresses, like braking. Take a good look at all the suspension bushings, especially the lower control arms. The pulling on braking is a good indication that either you have a brake problem (sticking caliper or pad) or that you have some bushing or ball joint wear. You also need to have good tires with no alignment wear patterns in order to set the alignment correctly. They need to be adjusted to the pressure you will run at most of the time.

If everything appears to be in good condition, call the shop back and tell them that the alignment isn't right. Ask them what specifications they adjusted all three angle to, and where your car was within those specs. If you had your alignment done at a tire retailer or Wal-Mart, good luck. Find a frame shop.

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Later,
Vader
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